How long did it take you to transition to heeding MC advice?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SirGrotius, Aug 27, 2012.

  1. SirGrotius

    SirGrotius Senior member

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    I'm the typical SW&D, noob guy in the sense that I found SF, ignored most of the MC advice, and loaded up on Prada, Dior suits (because they were the "best" of the fashion brands), etc.

    Two years later and I just received one of my Dior suits back from the tailor and while it has that look, it's not perfect for me. The arms don't lay just right (ironically, they did prior to being tailored shorter), the length is probably still .5 inches too long (believe it or not), and the silhouette is so dropped it's like a mix between RLBL and well a woman's suit. On top of that, the pants are not perfect.

    I gave MTM or Custom (in the Napoli sense of the word) a look recently but was a little scared off by:

    • While I don't mind dropping $2.5K on a fashion suit, $6K+ is still an eye opener for me. I can afford it, it's just a "change"
    • Worries that the tailors would not "get" it, and I'd come back with a giant, boxy suit with a 12" pants rise and 9" leg opening
    • Confusion about what would be best for my body type, e.g., I'm soft shouldered (euphemism for no shoulders), so figured I should do something with more structure, but if I went that route it looked too severe, and if I went the direction which I thought was cooler, Napoli (loved the Madison ave store), I was worried that the lack of canvassing or shoulder pads would be bad for my small frame

    So, how long before you made the leap, and did you ever regret?

    (As a microcosm, got my first pair of Lobbs after flirting with many other types of shoes and can't look back now.)
     


  2. lee_44106

    lee_44106 Senior member

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    I can't find that graphic, but you need to


    LURK MOAR
     


  3. xMaximex

    xMaximex Well-Known Member

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    I was like you at first, even though I still don't post a lot, I lurk a lot. I was initially on Superfuture / SW&D - but my job required that I dressed better. Hence, I lurked from time to others on MC, and in less than 6 months, I haven't looked back. It happened two years ago; nowadays, I don't get my old "swag". The transition went slowly from hightops to Redwing boots to Alden to Vass. Good luck!

    [​IMG]
     


  4. clapeyron

    clapeyron Senior member

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  5. tobiasj

    tobiasj Senior member

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    SW&D posters realising the error of their ways and coming home. This makes me tear up.
     


  6. Mox C

    Mox C Senior member

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    I'm fairly new to the board, but I migrated to MC and ignored SW&D right off the bat. That's probably because I'm 44. I'm not a fuddy-duddy, but I've been around long enough to see fashion swing from one extreme to another. When you are young, fashion can be new, fresh, and important. For me, it's like watching a dog chase its tail.

    I'm not a big fan of the word "conservative", as it sounds so cautious and staid to me, but I do prefer a more middle-of-the-road classic style. Daring to be classic while being pushed to convert to the current trend can be more individualistic than following the masses. You don't have to go full-on retro and there are ways to make your mark.

    I personally think there is little to regret about going classic. You won't be on the bleeding edge of fashion (many would say that's a good thing), but classic is always in style.
     


  7. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Where are you finding the $6k+ suit? Or are you talking about the new Attolini store on Madison? Their custom suit aren't worth it to me - they only do a forward fitting (at best) and then the alterations are done locally. For that $6k+ price you can get real bespoke from Rubinacci, Huntsman or Maurice Sedwell. You can find cheaper options from Chan, NSM or Steed (ranging from $1.5k to $3-4k).

    Regarding Lobb, are you talking about RTW or bespoke?

    As to your other questions, it seems obvious that you have a lot of MC to read and to learn.
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2012


  8. bourbonbasted

    bourbonbasted Cyber Eliitist

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    Beyond the obvious "lurk moar" comment, which, to be honest, is always the answer since no one on the MC side of things really knows what they pretend to know (pardon a few members), I think what you need to realize is that you are about to undergo a shift in thinking.

    Pardon my sweeping generalizations or hackneyed ignorance here, but the mentality of SW&D and MC is vastly different. That does not mean one is better or one is proper. They are just different.

    The issues that you felt made you nervous regarding bespoke are very typical. Even those with the most money to spend do not walk into a tailor's shop and come out immediately with exactly what they want. Instead, the bespoke (or even MTM) process is one of trial and error. You decide what you like, what works best for you, the details that keep things interesting, etc. Your passion and the hunt for the perfect fit keep you running like a junky. And all the way there is your dealer tailor to be your guide and keep you in line. You will go through a ton of commissions before you settle on something you really like. And then, as soon as you have the default/conservative arena covered, you strike out into goofy shit to keep from being bored.

    To me, this is the biggest difference between SW&D and MC. In MC the ideal (for better or for worse) is the bespoke process. Having garments made for you, to your exact specifications, gives those of us who slave over the details a great deal of satisfaction. While there are a number of custom avenues in the SW&D world (or just street wear scene in general), there is no ultimate step that involves complete customization of everything. Instead there is a lot more prepackaged style and highly designed brands/items that require a great deal of understanding. Yet, at the end of the day, they are still not your creations.

    Before you jump into bespoke you need to start realizing and appreciating the finer details of tailored items. Things like pocket configurations, stitching, hand finishing, button stance, fabric selections, lapel details, etc, etc are all things you should start paying attention to. I guarantee, aside from overall fit, if you compare the details of the Dior piece you mentioned with any of the WAYW greatest hits, you'll see a number of things pop out. It's not easy to get this right away, and you'll see that you miss a ton of shit that the MC nerd crowd will be quick to jump on. But again, it's a process. You need to first see the details. Then understand why they are there (or why they shouldn't be there). And then appreciate why you think they are cool or terrible.

    From this basic point you can move into more complex areas like the formality of certain fabrics, occasions for certain styles, texture and combinations, etc etc. However, attempting to create an eye for the detail before jumping in feet first will save you a shit ton of time, money and frustration. Especially when you are coming from a completely different mindset.

    Once you have an understanding of what goes into dressing "correctly" (I put this in quotations because what is correct is completely subjective, learned and earned over time, and in no way dictated by what people post on this forum), then you can begin to look at things on a more personal level. Get an idea of your proportions. See what you think could be improved by structure, what should be left soft, etc. A tailor is your greatest ally here, but you'll know you have a good idea what you're getting into if you can look in the mirror and spot obvious flaws in OTR garments. Again, this only comes from doing your due diligence.

    It's funny that the title of your thread alludes to "when" you make the shift in thinking. In reality, it should be "how" you make the shift in your thinking. As you observe and learn you'll soon realize that there is no on and off switch. You'll carry over ideas that you like from SW&D. You'll create new ideas based on what you see here. The combination of these will make for your style. And that's what's at the heart of it. Being here isn't about thinking in terms of MC or in terms of SW&D. It's about thinking in terms of your style.
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2012


  9. Hayward

    Hayward Senior member

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    So the only thing I've taken from this forum is to size down on some items and wear brown shoes more often. The tailoring stuff is interesting, as is seeing other people's tastes. It can also be amusing to see some posters defend their personal taste as some sort of universal standard.
     


  10. Makoto Chan

    Makoto Chan Senior member

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    Different people come here with different mentalities, and different budgets. Also they "make the leap" from different starting points. I'm shocked that he thinks he needs to buy $6K suits and John Lobb shoes. It sounds like he wants to transition from the best brands in SW&D to the best brands in MC. Is that right? Because, you could look totally great in an MC kinda way, if you had a real basic wardrobe (which you can search for), some good shoes at a much lower price point than Lobb, and a few tailored OTR or MTM suits and jackets. I think it's generally a pretty utilitarian (and satisfying) pursuit for a "beginner."
     


  11. md2010

    md2010 Senior member

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    Lol . You must be a cash money baller. I am yet to drop $2.5k on a suit. I am sure you will get it right if you are prepared to spend $6k on a suit.
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2012


  12. JensenH

    JensenH Senior member

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    Been a member for a while, but never drank the MC Kool-aid. I still dress the way I like -- classic style but with some flair.
     


  13. Petepan

    Petepan Senior member

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    Every person says they dress classic with some flair. What exactly does that mean?
     


  14. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    lol I was thinking the same thing but I didn't want to say anything.
     


  15. celery

    celery Senior member

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    See peacock thread.
     


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