How high are your armholes?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by yywwyy, Sep 15, 2012.

  1. yywwyy

    yywwyy Senior member

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    I've been wondering about well-fitting, high armholes of jackets. I've done a search, and certainly read up a lot about them. However, a lot of the photos I'd like to see have been deleted, and currently, there really aren't many examples to see. It would be great to see some more examples of well-fitting, high armholes. Would such armholes make it possible to lift your arms horizontally without lifting the jacket at all? Personally, the arm/armhole is the most important aspect of my suits-- No matter how well the jacket fits otherwise, a low, ill-fitting armhole makes me feel that the suit is not "mine."

    [​IMG][​IMG]
    Here's some that I've found, but if you have better examples, I'd appreciate them.
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2012


  2. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

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    Mine are infinitely high; I developed a system similar to a shooting/norfolk jacket that indeed allows me to raise my arms in the most extreme positions, with no tension in the shoulders or disturbance in the body of the jacket. A conventional sleeve cap-on-armscye system will never allow you to raise your arms without disturbances, no matter how high it is... the sinusoidal curve of the cap, which makes the fabric fitted and smooth around the shoulder, necessarily prevents movement when the arm is raised (inverting the curve).
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2012


  3. yywwyy

    yywwyy Senior member

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    Makes sense. It's hard for me to develop a sense about what's a good fit in the armhole/arm area, since most people do not take photos while moving their arms about. Although the fit of my suits look good to me, and I generally ask for armholes as high as possible, I'm unsatisfied with the armhole area when I move my arms-- I feel like they could be improved by a lot.
     


  4. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

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    It's not as great as you think... for years I had bespoke tailors hike the armhole up as high as physically possible, even grinding into my armpit with ripples coming out of it... but at the end of the day, because of the nature of fitted sleevecap construction, you'll start getting pulling and tension at horizontal and above, no matter how high the bottom of the armscye.

    If you're really worried about it and don't want a norfolk bi-swing back, you could get perfectly straight sleeve caps with no sinusoidal curve... those obviously would be smooth and 'at rest' when your arms are perfect horizontal out to your sides. Downside is the ripples would be fairly severe when your arms are lowered to the side in normal position.

    ...and then there was lycra...
     


  5. bloke11

    bloke11 Well-Known Member

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    Svenn never fails to chime in on threads like these:D
     


  6. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

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    ^ the fruits of my obsession will be revealed to SF soon enough...
     


  7. yywwyy

    yywwyy Senior member

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    Any photos of your jacket?
     


  8. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    This is not a thing.
     


  9. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Here ya go, tried my best to follow your instructions

    [​IMG]
     


  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    They are discussing armholes not a**holes
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2012


  11. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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  12. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

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    It's at the tailor's at the moment, take a look at the underarm gussets in bi-swing backs (in some norfolk jackets) if you want a rough idea.

    Foo, what isn't a thing?
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2012


  13. Butler

    Butler Senior member

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    Steven Hitchcock is generally considered to make the highest armholes on Savile Row - here is a blazer of mine :bigstar:



    [​IMG]

    Uploaded with ImageShack.us
     
    Last edited: Sep 16, 2012


  14. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

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    ^I've always liked that pic, but it seems a bit misleading ;) Steed did this one for me, which is very high, but as you can see it doesn't solve all mobility problems:

    [​IMG]


    I only do bi-swing backs now, even for business wear.
     


  15. imanewbie

    imanewbie Senior member

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    looks great on you man....
     


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