• We would like to welcome American Trench as an official Affiliate Vendor. American Trench is a Philadelphia based outerwear, apparel, and accessories brand, making all of its products in the United States at (mostly) family owned factories. . Please visit the American Trench thread and welcome them to the forum.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

How does this suit fit (Lanieri)

maxalex

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2016
Messages
975
Reaction score
675
Suits (or jackets) are hard to get right from just measurements because body shape is dynamic and can't be reduced to a few numbers. That's why even master bespoke tailors make lots of adjustments, often substantial, at a first fitting for a new client. (It gets easier for subsequent commissions, but every fabric drapes differently so there are always changes, even if the client's weight and posture haven't changed.) I don't want to say MTM suits are a bad idea, as I've seen many happy results on the forum. But the potential for disappointment is large, and I'm not sure how much better it is than buying OTR and getting alterations. (Not rhetorical; I'm literally not sure.)

I buy MTM shirts from Proper Cloth--but I was measured in person at their NY shop and then did a few alterations to arrive at the right fit. (I just can't ever seem to justify the price of bespoke shirts given they last only a few years.) And I've had good results with MTM shoes at Rozsnyai in Budapest--again getting measured in the shop. Suits are harder.
 
Last edited:

NATAZ

Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2021
Messages
14
Reaction score
0
Hello Guys,

I have finally received the new jacket Lanieri replaced, It looks much better than the first one they made. however, am still not sure it fits me 100%, any advice? should I contact them once more?

WhatsApp Image 2021-11-27 at 19.36.44 (4).jpeg
WhatsApp Image 2021-11-27 at 19.36.44 (3).jpeg
WhatsApp Image 2021-11-27 at 19.36.44 (3).jpeg WhatsApp Image 2021-11-27 at 19.36.44 (4).jpeg
WhatsApp Image 2021-11-27 at 19.36.44 (2).jpeg
WhatsApp Image 2021-11-27 at 19.36.44.jpeg
WhatsApp Image 2021-11-27 at 19.36.44 (1).jpeg
WhatsApp Image 2021-11-27 at 19.36.44 (1).jpeg WhatsApp Image 2021-11-27 at 19.36.44.jpeg
 

Phileas Fogg

Distinguished Member
Joined
Feb 9, 2020
Messages
4,712
Reaction score
4,415
Hello Guys,

I have finally received the new jacket Lanieri replaced, It looks much better than the first one they made. however, am still not sure it fits me 100%, any advice? should I contact them once more?

View attachment 1710743 View attachment 1710744 View attachment 1710744 View attachment 1710743 View attachment 1710741 View attachment 1710739 View attachment 1710740 View attachment 1710740 View attachment 1710739
I had to go back and reacquaint myself with this thread. I see I had already responded.
To be honest, it really doesn’t look much different. Throw in the towel and get a refund if you can. Surely your time is more valuable than to be chasing this.
 

Angel91

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2021
Messages
83
Reaction score
26
I agree. Not worth trying to have them fix it, get a local mtm where u can get measured or just rtw and alter. I spent too much on poor online mtm, I wish I had realized before.
 

tilesomoole

Senior Member
Joined
May 2, 2021
Messages
159
Reaction score
108
any advice? should I contact them once more?
I third the motion to get a refund and keep looking.

My shirt experience was similar - the first shirt came out good but not perfect. I did a video consultation and asked for a few revisions. When the second shirt arrived it was unchanged from the first iteration.

It's a shame because their fabrics are fantastic and it's a great idea for a company - I would patronize them if they could ge tthe fit right - I'm glad I did the shirts as a trial before going for the full suit.

Best of luck to you.
 

dieworkwear

Mahatma Jawndi
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Apr 10, 2011
Messages
27,318
Reaction score
69,283
Hello Guys,

I have finally received the new jacket Lanieri replaced, It looks much better than the first one they made. however, am still not sure it fits me 100%, any advice? should I contact them once more?

View attachment 1710743 View attachment 1710744 View attachment 1710744 View attachment 1710743 View attachment 1710741 View attachment 1710739 View attachment 1710740 View attachment 1710740 View attachment 1710739
Afraid this doesn't fit well.

One of the easiest ways to tell if a suit fits is to look for puckering, pulling, or unsightly wrinkles. This isn't the only dimension for how a suit should fit, but it's the easiest one to spot when you're just learning about tailored clothing. A suit should fit cleanly, as you see here.


tumblr_nzzwspxpAF1rf1jvro1_1280.jpeg




Your suit has a few problem areas. The first is the upper sleeves, which are too tight for your arms. You can also see divots in the upper part of the sleevehead, suggesting that the back of the coat is too slim for your frame. Additionally, the trousers are too slim (see hem). And the pants are collapsing at the back.


WhatsApp Image 2021-11-27 at 19.36.44 (2).jpg




You can see this more clearly if you lighten up this photo. See the folds under your seat. This is often caused by a long back rise.


WhatsApp Image 2021-11-27 at 19.36.44 (3).jpeg



The fullness around your chest is also odd. In tailoring, there is something called a drape cut, which sort of looks like this, but much better. This is not a drape cut, but just a poorly cut chest on a coat that has seemingly been hacked around in other areas. It makes the proportions look off.


WhatsApp Image 2021-11-27 at 19.36.44.jpeg



This company doesn't seem to be very good, and people who are reading this thread should just avoid them. As a matter of personal preference, I also think the gorge on your suit is too high (the gorge is the line that connects the collar to the lapel). This is causing the peaks to sit very high on your body. Although this might be an effect of camera angle.

The best way to train your eye for this stuff is to just look at more photos of classic tailoring. You don't really need to know the technicalities of how tailoring works -- just more familiarity with how tailoring can look. Voxsartoria has a good archive of photos

https://voxsartoria.com/

WhatsApp Image 2021-11-27 at 19.36.44 (2).jpg
 
Last edited:

maxalex

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2016
Messages
975
Reaction score
675
You have better OTR options in Milan, at around the same price. Lots of places along the via Gesù these days. Check out Caruso for starters. I imagine they can adjust their own OTR suits in-house; if not, plenty of tailors in Milan ready to help. Good luck.
 

Angel91

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 1, 2021
Messages
83
Reaction score
26
In Milan and in every city in Italy. ive moved recently to a new city and I’ve found 4 good quality places that offer those prices with similar clothes, and it’s below 100k inhabitants.
 

notdos

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 5, 2015
Messages
460
Reaction score
561
A simpler explanation is, that if this was on OTR suit, you’d need to go up at least 1 size.

Phillip
 

NATAZ

Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2021
Messages
14
Reaction score
0
Afraid this doesn't fit well.

One of the easiest ways to tell if a suit fits is to look for puckering, pulling, or unsightly wrinkles. This isn't the only dimension for how a suit should fit, but it's the easiest one to spot when you're just learning about tailored clothing. A suit should fit cleanly, as you see here.


View attachment 1710888



Your suit has a few problem areas. The first is the upper sleeves, which are too tight for your arms. You can also see divots in the upper part of the sleevehead, suggesting that the back of the coat is too slim for your frame. Additionally, the trousers are too slim (see hem). And the pants are collapsing at the back.


View attachment 1710889



You can see this more clearly if you lighten up this photo. See the folds under your seat. This is often caused by a long back rise.


View attachment 1710890


The fullness around your chest is also odd. In tailoring, there is something called a drape cut, which sort of looks like this, but much better. This is not a drape cut, but just a poorly cut chest on a coat that has seemingly been hacked around in other areas. It makes the proportions look off.


View attachment 1710894


This company doesn't seem to be very good, and people who are reading this thread should just avoid them. As a matter of personal preference, I also think the gorge on your suit is too high (the gorge is the line that connects the collar to the lapel). This is causing the peaks to sit very high on your body. Although this might be an effect of camera angle.

The best way to train your eye for this stuff is to just look at more photos of classic tailoring. You don't really need to know the technicalities of how tailoring works -- just more familiarity with how tailoring can look. Voxsartoria has a good archive of photos

https://voxsartoria.com/

View attachment 1710891
Thank you very much for the detailed response. I will definitely look at other options.
 

NATAZ

Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2021
Messages
14
Reaction score
0
Update:
they will not do a refund for the whole suit, only for the blazer-pending an additional cost of 300UDS for tax and handling on the return.
To sum up, it was a big disappointment and bad experience, I would be avoiding MTM and especially Lanieri from now on.
thank you for the educated advice from the forum members.
 

tamimasa

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2021
Messages
65
Reaction score
261
Update:
they will not do a refund for the whole suit, only for the blazer-pending an additional cost of 300UDS for tax and handling on the return.
To sum up, it was a big disappointment and bad experience, I would be avoiding MTM and especially Lanieri from now on.
thank you for the educated advice from the forum members.
In my opinion, I'd like to share my learning process. I was a disaster when I was starting (not to say that I am not now, but I'd like to believe that I got better). If you are starting out, I recommend you to try several RTW brands and have the clothes altered professionally, especially if you are residing in Europe. By working with your alteration tailor, you get to know your size that way. To this date, I still do not have the time to get anything bespoke, but I've managed to buy reliable RTW stuff at a heavily discounted price at the end of the season and have them altered to my liking. Admittedly some of the stuff may not be as clean as our fellow member dieworkwear posted in the picture above. Still, the imperfection, I'd also like to believe, is not too exaggerated.
 

Johnny80

Senior Member
Joined
May 2, 2021
Messages
175
Reaction score
92
For a great fit OTR i would recommend Isaia...the fit is outstanding for a slim fit body
Their suits are in general Drop 8...but i had just to tailor the sleeves by 1" and hem the trousers
If you are not tall try the Capri suits, if you are taller, like over 6 feet go for Gregorio or Domenico suits
 

Featured Sponsor

What's Your Favorite Summer Shoe?

  • Loafers

  • Boat shoes

  • Espadrilles

  • Sneakers

  • Desert Boots

  • Sandals


Results are only viewable after voting.

Forum statistics

Threads
475,360
Messages
10,161,116
Members
213,609
Latest member
wind has a path
Top