How does this suit fit (Lanieri)

[Angel91]

Hello everyone! I’m new to the forum, so excuse me if I’m making mistakes by posting this here. I’ve recently decided that I need a suit, and after visiting several shops and realizing how difficult it is to find something for my body type (168cm and wide shoulders) I opted for lanieri MTM. What do you guys think about the fit? Apart from the sleeves being too long and the trousers a bit wide, which are the only things I can spot being not as knowledgeable as you guys are.
Thanks!!

 

[dieworkwear]

I'm afraid that suit doesn't fit you well.

The jacket's collar should hug your neck, even as you move around (within reason). But certainly, at the very least, it should hug your neck while standing still. When you try on a jacket, look for this first and foremost. Your jacket collar stands very far from your neck.

The sleeves are too long. Depending on how the buttonholes on your sleeve have been finished, this may be an expensive alteration.

You should not button the last button on your suit jacket. The pocket shape also looks strange for the coat.

The back of the trousers don't hang very cleanly. If the trousers are sitting at your waist, it looks like they can also be hemmed a little. The trousers shouldn't have that much fabric around your ankles.

If you can get a refund, I recommend going for that. It would be too expensive to alter everything and get it to look good.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. Most guys take a while to figure out what fits them well, so it's a common learning curve.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

^ I’m not sure there’s anything else that needs to be said. Get your money back and move on.

I’m not familiar with the brand. I’ll assume it’s an online made to measure/order company. If I could anything anything more to the analysis above, it’s to avoid online ordering of tailored clothing. Get it done in person or buy off the rack and adjust.

 

[Angel91]

Thank you, guys. I'll refer that to the brand and ask for a refund. Any other advice is welcome

 

[dieworkwear]

Thank you, guys. I'll refer that to the brand and ask for a refund. Any other advice is welcome

Some thoughts:

1. It's always easier to buy suits off the rack, as you can then put them back on the rack if you don't like them. With custom clothing, things are final sale. Some customer clothiers allow you to make returns, but they are always the bad ones. Good custom clothiers don't allow you to make returns, but not all custom clothiers who don't offer returns are good.

Trying things off the rack will allow you to better understand your fit issues and help you develop a sense of personal taste when it comes to cloth, silhouettes, and various styles. If you need a suit for an upcoming occasion, buy something very conservative. Otherwise, keep trying things on; browse forums, blogs, and Instagram; and develop an eye for what looks good. This can take many years (literally). If you're not in a rush to get a suit, give yourself two or three years to develop an eye for tailored clothing. You can then better understand what looks good on you.

2. Most men can find something off-the-rack. However, if you need custom clothes, then you're always better suited to finding a place that can meet and fit you in person.

There aren't very many good custom clothiers left in the world. Depending on your location and budget, you can try posting here for suggestions. Some people may be able to direct you to a good tailor.

There are two types of custom clothes: made to measure and bespoke.

Made to measure means a pattern is adjusted from a block pattern, using your measurements. The further you deviate from this block, the more likely your suit won't fit. You have to be within a certain distance of the block pattern for it to work out. Unfortunately, it's very hard to find good salespeople these days, so sometimes you'll walk into a MTM shop and the salesperson won't let you know (correctly) if you'll fit into their block.

The other option is bespoke, which means the pattern is drafted from scratch. Some bespoke tailors also use block patterns, but they can better adjust things by hand and, essentially, create a new pattern. The good news is that bespoke is better able to accommodate difficult figures. The bad news is that -- like with RTW and MTM -- there aren't very many good bespoke tailors these days. And if you buy something bespoke, it is final sale. If you're located in a certain city and can give your budget, I can see if I know of any options in your area.

My general advice:

1. If you buy custom clothing, be prepared to pay a lot of money. Something in the neighborhood of $3,000 for a sport coat and $5,000 for a suit. Good custom clothing is expensive because it requires a lot of labor. Beware of cheap custom clothes, as it will result in things like the above.

There are some exceptions to this -- some tailors in Sicily and Naples are very cheap ($1,000 for a sport coat, $1,500 for a suit). There are also good MTM operations around that price. But start with the expectation that quality custom clothes will cost you money.

2. If you're searching for a custom tailor, try to get recommendations from people who have a lot of experience in this area. Find people who have tried that specific tailor. Get their candid and private opinions. For some reason, people who buy custom clothes don't always share their true opinions openly online.

3. When choosing a custom tailor, start with the silhouette and house style. This is where trying ready-to-wear garments can help. Try things on, develop an eye, and get a taste for different silhouettes. Allow yourself some time to develop these things.

4. Always helps to have a good alterations tailor in your city who can fix issues. This specific suit isn't worth saving, but you may want to hunt for a good alterations tailor now. Sometimes they can be handy even if you buy custom clothes, but certainly if you buy ready to wear.

 

[Angel91]

I really appreciate your advice. I hope things were presented so easily when i started looking for options. I really thought I was making the right choice. I’ll go to local shops and try out what they have. In the end, I live in Italy, as you said, it should be easier than anywhere else.