How does a new menswear designer break out?

[stevejobs]

I've thought about this for some time, but it seems very difficult for an up-and-coming menswear designer to break through today. Since current menswear style is stuck in a continual retro-classic loop of the early 1950s to early 1970s, I cannot fathom how a fresh designer can make his mark against entrenched brands. Menswear doesn't have a comparable trade publication like WWD and the men's magazines have little interest promoting new brands unless accompanied by large ad buys.

New brands that do appear are usually offshoots from designers who made their career in women's apparel like Tom Ford or they are extensions of lifestyle brands like Sean John. It is rare to find a new brand whose success derived primarily and originally came from its menswear collection. Most of these extension products are usually outsourced to OEMs and made by Chinese labor, not old-world artisans.

Even if one does create a primarily menswear startup, how could you offer products that are in any way creatively different or interesting from what is currently out there if for commercial reasons you conform to the same designs as everyone else. It hardly matters how prestigious the fashion school you graduated from or what firm you came from if you cannot produce any fresh thinking or bring new ideas into a tired marketplace. Just stick to knitting sweaters because they are always in demand.

 

[kwilkinson]

My only advice: emulate the timeless Eric Glennie.

 

[stevejobs]

Originally Posted by kwilkinson

My only advice: emulate the timeless Eric Glennie.

Too conformist...

Also tailors, bespoke or otherwise, are NOT fashion designers. They are fashion adherents whose professional responsibility is limited to measuring and sewing, not brainstorming new ideas.

 

[kwilkinson]

Originally Posted by stevejobs

Too conformist...

LOL wow, post some pictures of your stuff! haha

But seriously, if it really is too conformist, all I can say is 'good luck!

' lol

 

[Janshi]

I guess it has more to do with subverting or subtly tweaking an existing look, giving it a fresh air while keeping a classic feeling. Funny thing about society is that conformity *is* the reality, and while we will reward out of the box thinking radical changes are by and large no-no's. Or, the radical *becomes* the conformity, and then the cycle starts over. I think that for a new designer to break out he will probably have to follow the trend yet integrate something both completely new and yet absolutely timeless. It has to feel like it could have happened at any time in our history and fitted in, but it only happened now.

D'you know what I mean?

 

[stevejobs]

Originally Posted by Janshi

I guess it has more to do with subverting or subtly tweaking an existing look, giving it a fresh air while keeping a classic feeling. Funny thing about society is that conformity *is* the reality, and while we will reward out of the box thinking radical changes are by and large no-no's. Or, the radical *becomes* the conformity, and then the cycle starts over. I think that for a new designer to break out he will probably have to follow the trend yet integrate something both completely new and yet absolutely timeless. It has to feel like it could have happened at any time in our history and fitted in, but it only happened now.

D'you know what I mean?

There is nothing magical or special about the postwar period up to Watergate that forces today's designers to continually go back to that period for "inspiration." Postwar menswear designers did not base their designs on capturing the look of the early 1900s up until WWI. Instead they crafted their own designs, breaking new ground in designing clothing that made JFK, JFK, the Rat Pack, the Rat Pack, Cary Grant, Cary Grant, etc. You didn't see Henry Fonda wearing clothes that was indistinguishable from what a turn of the century businessman wore. Instead, the men who clothed the Postwar man had fresh looks, not retro-looks.

Now, it could be that modern designers on the men's side are dullards, without an original thought in their heads. If so, then I think fashion schools need to replace their current teachers because they aren't doing a good job of promoting original thinking to their students.

 

[caelte]

Originally Posted by stevejobs

There is nothing magical or special about the postwar period up to Watergate that forces today's designers to continually go back to that period for "inspiration." Postwar menswear designers did not base their designs on capturing the look of the early 1900s up until WWI. Instead they crafted their own designs, breaking new ground in designing clothing that made JFK, JFK, the Rat Pack, the Rat Pack, Cary Grant, Cary Grant, etc. You didn't see Henry Fonda wearing clothes that was indistinguishable from what a turn of the century businessman wore. Instead, the men who clothed the Postwar man had fresh looks, not retro-looks. Now, it could be that modern designers on the men's side are dullards, without an original thought in their heads. If so, then I think fashion schools need to replace their current teachers because they aren't doing a good job of promoting original thinking to their students.
Eric, is that you?

 

[SoCal2NYC]

Originally Posted by stevejobs

Menswear doesn't have a comparable trade publication like WWD and the men's magazines have little interest promoting new brands unless accompanied by large ad buys.

DNR