How do you spot hand work?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by BlvdDandy, Apr 14, 2005.

  1. BlvdDandy

    BlvdDandy Senior member

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    People on this forum are frequently talking about the amount of hand work on a given suit, and how this is often an indication of a quality item. While I can certainly understand that, I'm wondering how to spot it. For example, I know to look under the collar on an Oxxford suit to see the little uneven stitches there, but what are other common places to spot hand-work and what does it look like? I'm wondering about both jackets and pants.
     


  2. Patrick Bateman

    Patrick Bateman Senior member

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    The buttonholes and the lapel hole(s), to start with. The stitching should appear uneven and not perfectly symmetrical. The little imperfections, caused by the human hand sewing instead of a machine, are what give it elegance.
     


  3. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    Look at where the lining is stitched in to the jacket. Also look at the inside of the armholes where the lining is -- you'll see the same uneven stitching there. Also look around pocket edges and lapel edges (not just for obvious pick stitching -- check out an Oxxford and you'll see what I'm talking about).
     


  4. Patrick Bateman

    Patrick Bateman Senior member

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    Yeah, these days, unfortunately, pick stitching is not necessarily a sign of handwork.
     


  5. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    (johnnynorman3 @ April 14 2005,12:16) Look at where the lining is stitched in to the jacket. Â Also look at the inside of the armholes where the lining is -- you'll see the same uneven stitching there. Â Also look around pocket edges and lapel edges (not just for obvious pick stitching -- check out an Oxxford and you'll see what I'm talking about).
    Yeah, these days, unfortunately, pick stitching is not necessarily a sign of handwork.
    i wonder if someone's going to invent a machine that purposely does uneven pick stitching sidenote, my tailor told me that tiny amount of pick stitching on my jil sander was done by machine
     


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