1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

How do you roll? Untangle the Great Buttondown Collar Conspiracy!

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Apr 10, 2013.

Which collar roll is closest to the ideal?

Poll closed Apr 17, 2013.
  1. #1

    70 vote(s)
    43.8%
  2. #2

    10 vote(s)
    6.3%
  3. #3

    8 vote(s)
    5.0%
  4. #4

    49 vote(s)
    30.6%
  5. #5

    23 vote(s)
    14.4%
  1. mack11211

    mack11211 Senior member

    Messages:
    6,436
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    Location:
    Brooklyn USA
    

    Four monograms, including two on the same shirt?

    No, he's a dick here as well.
     
  2. greekonomist

    greekonomist Senior member

    Messages:
    1,500
    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2008
    Either 1 or 4 for me. I like the shape of both but prefer the spacing on #1, which has a more balanced look. In truth, anything approximating those two collars or something in the middle would please me.

    On a related, but tangential, note:

    I have a few Black Fleece OCBDs (from 2008-09), which I think roll pretty well, much better than regular BB shirts, but not as well as some vintage off-brand OCBDs I had in college. Those were hand-me-downs from my dad, and they had a thin oxford cloth that would make Vox weep with nostalgia, although I don't know if the cloth was thin from the start or only from years of wearing and washing. They were probably as old as I was, but they are disintegrated now. Now I'm thinking of finally trying "custom" made-to-order Mercer.

    Foo, don't leave us hanging on the results. Can you now reveal your preference and, perhaps, your experience with Mercer?
     
  3. Cantabrigian

    Cantabrigian Senior member

    Messages:
    4,741
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2006
    Location:
    London
    Greek, you reminded me of an OCBD I didn't remember that I had.

    Here's a lousy photos of a pretty nice roll - Black Fleece

    [​IMG]
     
  4. mossrockss

    mossrockss Senior member

    Messages:
    1,606
    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2008
    

    [​IMG]



    no it's full-on supima oxford. compared it side-by-side to my regular, mainline OCBD. same fabric. it'd be nice if it were extra slim fit. but slim fit works pretty well on me under a jacket, so i'm ok with it.
     
  5. Fuuma

    Fuuma Senior member

    Messages:
    25,817
    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2004
    

    I honestly give very little of a fuck, I'll know it when I see one I dislike but that's about it. Just trying to be sincere but that collar roll thing never really concerned me much. If I had to choose amongst your choice offered I'd pick n.4, which is close to the tie itself but still has a lot of "wave".
     
  6. greekonomist

    greekonomist Senior member

    Messages:
    1,500
    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2008
    

    Looks good. That's similar to how mine roll. Hard to find anything better these days, it seems.



    Need to see it with a tie.


    I found a photo of David Mercer wearing (I assume) one of his own shirts. Not the clearest angle for picture, but I think you can see an outline suggesting a nice bell curve. That's definitely an unlined collar.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. mossrockss

    mossrockss Senior member

    Messages:
    1,606
    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2008
    BB's Gatsby OCBD with tie.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2013
  8. ChetB

    ChetB Senior member

    Messages:
    3,632
    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2011
    

    mafoofan: Perhaps you're already planning a follow-up blog post, but I'm curious to hear your opinion on the best roll.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. Quantimil

    Quantimil Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    82
    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2011
    I just received my first CottonWork OCBD. This is a fairly accurate representation of the ideal roll in my mind. For my next order I must remember to specify it unfused, but the very soft interlining works well.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    With a tie:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2013
  10. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

    Messages:
    5,624
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    Thats interesting... I have one cottonwork shirt, and the collar is awful on it--its why I never ordered another shirt from them. That looks pretty good though.
     
  11. Axelman 17

    Axelman 17 Senior member

    Messages:
    1,396
    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2007
  12. smitty

    smitty Member

    Messages:
    12
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2008
    I just wrote it in another thread, all the collars i have seen in this thread lack tie space and thus will never achieve this look:

    http://media.tumblr.com/27efb6430cb1155ad785cd5f70353dc7/tumblr_inline_mkp0g7IeWv1qz4rgp.jpg


    You can modify everything: length of collar wings, position of buttons, spread of the collar, it will all lead to failure if you start with not enough tie space.

    I say you need AT LEAST 3.5cm distance between the two points, where the collar wings meet the collar band. Maybe even more, up to 5cm, I donĀ“t know.

    Most collars I see in this thread, specially on this page have ZERO tie space, which is automatic failure on a button down.
     
  13. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    8,355
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    Was randomly watching an episode of Law and Order: SVU the other night. Sometimes you find inspiration in the weirdest places. But I think these are pretty good:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  14. romafan

    romafan Senior member

    Messages:
    8,916
    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2004
    Location:
    NYC
    

    I could never see that guy on L&O (supposedly tough, no-nonsense police commander) and not think of his LA Law character (nerdy, needy, socially ackward directmail tycoon suitor to Arnie Becker's secretary, Roz) - it ruined the show for me
     
  15. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    14,577
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2006
    Unbuttoned OCBD collar with a tie is classic dishabille. Not for daytime unless you are still in afternoon cooldown.
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2013
  16. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

    Messages:
    1,320
    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2010
    Location:
    London
    Somehow those OCBDs with tie in Law and Order look a bit weird to me. Maybe I'm just not used to seeing it worn as such over here. Particularly with that style of roll. Or maybe the unbuttoned collar is throwing everything off.

    But I think this below on Liverano (as well as a couple other examples on the thread where the roll is different) looks better when worn with tie -- in part because the roll on the collars isn't quite as prominent as it is in those Law and Order pictures that when worn with tie look somewhat mis-matched to my eye.

    I have a couple of button-downs on finer cotton shirts (relative to Oxfords) and when I wear them with tie and coat, there's some serious creasing issues on the unfused shirt collars. The whole collar pretty much collapses in (smth like Liverano's collar) when I cinch my tie tightly because it's too soft. Hence, I rarely wear my button-downs with tie, but if I do, I unbutton them.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2013
  17. Loathing

    Loathing Senior member

    Messages:
    1,092
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2011
    Location:
    London
    Has anyone noticed Drake's new range of OCBDs?
    They have 5 colours in store.
    I don't know much about OCBDs since I'm an Englishman, but they look rather nice.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by