How do you know if a dress shirt fits properly?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by d.h., May 5, 2004.

  1. d.h.

    d.h. Well-Known Member

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    As mentioned in another post, I'm a newbie who's recently lost 30 lbs and has to buy a whole new wardrobe. Like the title asks, how do I know if a dress shirt fits right? Like, how do I know if the collar isn't too tight/loose? Etc.?

    I recently bought a Claiborne "Modern Fit" shirt in Medium. Seems OK but I want to be sure before I wash/wear it. Oh, and if you can recommend some good off-the-rack brands that sell fitted dress shirts (ones geared more toward nights out rather than work days) that would be great too. I'm willing to spend up to $150 per shirt.

    Thanks in advance for all your help, guys. You're really helping my transition to becoming a new man.
     
  2. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Senior member

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    the collar size is generally one inch larger than your neck measurement, but only use this as a rough guide. if it feels tight, then it's too tight. if it doesn't feel tight then the amount of 'looseness' is to some degree a matter of preference. for example, if you're a size 16, you can probably get away with a 16 1/2 if you prefer, but you can't go any smaller than 16 and still wear the shirt with a tie.

    even though slim fitting shirts are in right now, and the slim fit is my preference, the bagginess around the waist is also a matter of preference and there's really no rule as to how it should be cut. if you like some loose fabric around the waist that's fine.

    the 2 measurements which in my opinion should be exact are the shoulders and sleeves. the shoulder seams should rest on top of your shoulders, just befor the drop, and not down on your arm. also don't make the common mistake of getting sleeves that are too short. you should be able to lift your hands to your face without the shirt cuffs falling below your wrists.

    i buy mtm shirts so i can't help you with the rtw recommendations.
     
  3. coatandthai

    coatandthai Senior member

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    I just realized that if the shoulder seam is supposed to rest at the edge of the shoulder, then every shirt I own doesn't fit me, and I own plenty. My problem is that I am thick (barrel-shaped) and not wide and flat (rectangular) so I need to buy XL, even though my shoulders are not that broad (maybe 21-22"). Hence, the shoulder seams droop about 2" off each shoulder. Does anyone else have this problem?
     
  4. gregory

    gregory Senior member

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    Yes, I do. I have to wear shirts with a 16" neck, but Canali shirts I bought with that size was too large for my shoulders. It doesn't look good. No one wants to emphasize his narrow shoulders.


    Answer from God: Jantzen.

    I have sold most of my Polo RL / Brooks Brothers shirts on eBay because of this reason. I previously had them tapered on the waist, but that didn't fix the shoulder problem.

    People don't pay attention to shoulder fit very often. Look around you. It is a mark distinguishing sharp dressers.
     
  5. General Koskov

    General Koskov Well-Known Member

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    If you're willing to spend $150 on a shirt, then you should be able to find a bespoke (or MTM at least) shirtmaker who will cost this much (even less sometimes). Then you can get whatever fit you like in whatever style you like.
     
  6. Biggs

    Biggs Well-Known Member

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    I'd like to add a couple of questions here if you don't mind.

    1) On what part of your hand should the sleeve cuffs end?

    2) If the cuff has two buttons, which button should you er... button?  If you button it to the "farthest" button, the cuff will hug your wrist.  If you use the other button(i.e. more "relaxed" fit), the cuff will line up on the first bone of your thumb(just directly below the wrist.  So what would be the proper way for wearing the dress shirt,

    i) with a suit and tie?

    ii) with only a tie?

    iii) without a suit and tie?
     
  7. Alias

    Alias Senior member

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    1) The sleeve cuffs should end right where your hand starts, past the wristbone. Be sure to get your sleeves a little longer than even this (maybe half an inch or a full inch), unless you want your cuffs to ride up your arms whenever you bend them.

    2) i) Button them both.
    ii) Up to you.
    iii) Up to you.
     
  8. HRHAndrew

    HRHAndrew Senior member

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    Your babysitter and her firm young looking mother can't keep their hands off you.  

    What I did when I prepared my first order to Jantzen, I bought a shirt with sleeves that were too long.  Set the height where I wanted it on each arm and measured from there.  Have the babysitters twin help you, as it is easier with help.
     
  9. Biggs

    Biggs Well-Known Member

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    For question 2, you can't button them both because a cuff has only one button hole.  What I meant was if I button the first button, it would result in a more tighter fit(i.e. the hole would "overlap" with the second button to allow the first button to go through).  If I don't button it, it would be just like when it was displayed on the rack.
     
  10. Alias

    Alias Senior member

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    Oh, you're not talking about the double-button barrel cuff then. What I do is, I choose the button that lets my shirt peek out from my suit sleeve.
     
  11. ernest

    ernest Senior member

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    How can you give a proper lenght and said to add 1 inch after?

    I thing your cuff must stay where you said first but when you move your arm
     
  12. Alias

    Alias Senior member

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    Because if the sleeve is only at the "proper length," what happens when you bend your arm?

    That extra length of fabric makes it possible to still have your wrists hidden under your cuffs, as opposed to becoming bare.
     
  13. Looking to improve

    Looking to improve Senior member

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    Original post by matadorpoeta:
    Matadorpoeta:
    Could you perhaps post a picture of the correct placing of the shoulder seam? I can't 'visualise' the right place for the seam based on your description. If you can't post a picture, could you please elaborate what you mean with 'just before the drop'?
    I'd like to know so I can better judge the result of my first m-t-m shirt. That judgement I'll of course use to have a better fitting second shirt.
    Thanks in advance,

    MtB
     
  14. ernest

    ernest Senior member

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    How can you give a proper lenght and said to add 1 inch after? I thing your cuff must stay where you said first but when you move your arm
    Because if the sleeve is only at the "proper length," what happens when you bend your arm? That extra length of fabric makes it possible to still have your wrists hidden under your cuffs, as opposed to becoming bare.
    so they are not at the proper lenght as the proper is the right lenght on a living boby...
     
  15. Alias

    Alias Senior member

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    I have no idea what a "boby" is, so you're probably talking about the body.

    If you read my previous posts, you'll find that I never once called my guidelines "proper length."

    I told the original poster to find the length to where his hand meets his wrist, and get an extra inch or so from there.

    Length to hand + Extra inch = Proper length

    And that's what I've been saying all along.

    I think the original poster managed to get my point about an entire page back. I could really care less about you debating semantics with me.
     

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