• Hi, I'm the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earn a commission for the forum and allow us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear and fashion.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

How do you judge suede quality?

DWFII

Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Jan 8, 2008
Messages
9,994
Reaction score
5,371
True suede is actually the grain (smooth) side of the leather buffed out with some sort of abrasive. Originally it was done exclusively on horse but I am pretty sure that that no longer applies.

Much of what is touted as "suede" is actually just the fleshside of...ideally...a piece of top grain leather turned to the outside. Not much wrong with that except the result tends to be coarser (and probably "softer") that rue suede.

Some of what is touted as suede is actually a "split." The layer of leather just below the corium or top grain...and which is usually discarded or used for lower class leather goods. I would hope that none of the shoemakers whose names appear repeatedly on this forum would resort to using "splits."
 

summej2

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 20, 2006
Messages
589
Reaction score
3
Then why was suede originally called reverse calf?
 

SoCal2NYC

Fashion Hayzus
Joined
Apr 8, 2007
Messages
12,204
Reaction score
8
Ultra is the best, right?
 

DWFII

Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Jan 8, 2008
Messages
9,994
Reaction score
5,371
Originally Posted by summej2
Then why was suede originally called reverse calf?
I've been in this business for 35+ years and I've never heard it called that. But that doesn't mean it wasn't...somewhere. In fact, the term "reverse calf" pretty well conforms to the description in my second paragraph. And the origins of true suede may go back much, much further than you think.
 

SoCal2NYC

Fashion Hayzus
Joined
Apr 8, 2007
Messages
12,204
Reaction score
8
Originally Posted by Uncontrol
It's not bad, but micro-suede is better.

How is that possible? Micro means small and sucks, Ultra is like the ultimate so it is the best.
 

SoCal2NYC

Fashion Hayzus
Joined
Apr 8, 2007
Messages
12,204
Reaction score
8

mr monty

Distinguished Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2002
Messages
7,210
Reaction score
1,344
Originally Posted by Uncontrol
It's not bad, but micro-suede is better.

Be serious
 

Opermann

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2007
Messages
735
Reaction score
8
So what are hallmarks when judging suede in person? Smell? Hand?
 

JoeRe

Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2007
Messages
22
Reaction score
0
Unless it is for a shoe, the best suede is reindeer suede. It is to regular suede what coarse wool is to cashmere. I am sure there are different qualities of reindeer suede, but all I have seen is superb.
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

What Is The Best Value Shoe Brand For Money?

  • Meermin

    Votes: 37 15.2%
  • TLB Mallorca

    Votes: 40 16.4%
  • Cheaney

    Votes: 8 3.3%
  • Carmina

    Votes: 38 15.6%
  • Crockett & Jones

    Votes: 43 17.6%
  • Other

    Votes: 78 32.0%

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
457,221
Messages
9,910,938
Members
206,587
Latest member
TenseikenSlash
Top