How do you judge suede quality?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by kenmoor123, Mar 10, 2008.

  1. kenmoor123

    kenmoor123 Senior member

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    The softer, the better?
     


  2. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    True suede is actually the grain (smooth) side of the leather buffed out with some sort of abrasive. Originally it was done exclusively on horse but I am pretty sure that that no longer applies.

    Much of what is touted as "suede" is actually just the fleshside of...ideally...a piece of top grain leather turned to the outside. Not much wrong with that except the result tends to be coarser (and probably "softer") that rue suede.

    Some of what is touted as suede is actually a "split." The layer of leather just below the corium or top grain...and which is usually discarded or used for lower class leather goods. I would hope that none of the shoemakers whose names appear repeatedly on this forum would resort to using "splits."
     


  3. summej2

    summej2 Senior member

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    Then why was suede originally called reverse calf?
     


  4. SoCal2NYC

    SoCal2NYC Fashion Hayzus

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    Ultra is the best, right?
     


  5. brad-t

    brad-t Bae Blade

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    Ultra is the best, right?

    It's not bad, but micro-suede is better.
     


  6. DWFII

    DWFII Bespoke Boot and Shoemaker Dubiously Honored

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    Then why was suede originally called reverse calf?
    I've been in this business for 35+ years and I've never heard it called that. But that doesn't mean it wasn't...somewhere. In fact, the term "reverse calf" pretty well conforms to the description in my second paragraph. And the origins of true suede may go back much, much further than you think.
     


  7. SoCal2NYC

    SoCal2NYC Fashion Hayzus

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    It's not bad, but micro-suede is better.

    How is that possible? Micro means small and sucks, Ultra is like the ultimate so it is the best.
     


  8. Fritz

    Fritz Senior member

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  9. SoCal2NYC

    SoCal2NYC Fashion Hayzus

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  10. mr monty

    mr monty Senior member

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    It's not bad, but micro-suede is better.

    Be serious[​IMG]
     


  11. Opermann

    Opermann Senior member

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    So what are hallmarks when judging suede in person? Smell? Hand?
     


  12. JoeRe

    JoeRe Member

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    Unless it is for a shoe, the best suede is reindeer suede. It is to regular suede what coarse wool is to cashmere. I am sure there are different qualities of reindeer suede, but all I have seen is superb.
     


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