How do you determine the quality of leather in a new dress shoe?

[Jerry52]

Hello,

Many of you know that I'm seeking a pair of men's dress lace-up shoes at/below $400 US.

Of course, unless I choose Alden or Allen Edmonds, I'll have to mail order anything else so maybe my question is useless but it might help inform others who are searching and can actually view some of the English and Italian shoes personally.

So...basically...is the actual quality of the leather in the uppers of most shoes retailing around the $400 range going to be largely the same?

If you do feel some brands at this price might offer definitely better leather, what do we look for as hallmarks?

For example, I think some of you think that "antiquing" hides inferior leather.

Are there other telltale indicators of the true quality? When a shoe is new, it tends to look nice, but the quality of leather may well dictate how long it lasts. Is there really any reliable way, when a shoe is in the showroom, to tell its true nature?

Thanks,
Jerry

 

[apples]

Good question! I'm interested in this as well as I'm about to start my higher-end shoe career. Probably about the same price-range as well (I'm leaning towards C&J).

 

[Flame]

One way to tell the leather quality on a shoe, is by how natural-looking the leather is. Of course this is in no way a surefire method of gauging leather quality, but corrected grain often has a gimmicky,"polished plastic" look.

For under $400, C&J benchgrades, Allen Edmonds and Santonis are all going to be worth the purchase.

 

[norcaltransplant]

I'll attempt to tackle this question because no one seems to forthcoming. Corrected grain (a.k.a. bookbinder, calvary calf) is easy to spot by the relatively shiney appearance of the leather coupled with a plastic-like feeling. Crockett's Calvary Calf feels more "rubberized" than Church's "plastic" bookbinder, but the difference is minimal.

Entry level luxury manufacturers like Crockett & Jones, Alden, Allen Edmonds, Ferragamo Lavorizione Originale, etc. use calfskin leathers with uniform dye jobs, unless purposely antiqued. I find that inspecting the grain is the most telling method for assessing for upper quality. Finer grain calfskin is generally superior. Check out the store displays or check out the footwear of the salespeople if they are wearing the company product. The crease/wear marks should be fine and subtle--subjectively, attempt to imagine the patina and how they should age after some wear. Better shoes will wear attractively, cheaper leathers will not.

 

[Jerry52]

Thanks to all of you for your replies. It sounds like a bit of science and maybe more luck, to get a truly "distinctive" leather in the $400 range...unless you want to chance EBAY and hope you're getting a true "bargain."

Jerry

 

[Jerry52]

Entry level luxury manufacturers like Crockett & Jones, Alden, Allen Edmonds, Ferragamo Lavorizione Originale, QUOTE]

Hello, Norcaltransplant, I never heard of Lavorizione Originale??? Good shoe?

Jerry