imageWIS
Stylish Dinosaur
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2004
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Okay: the salesperson is in charge of the custom orders for T&A in NYC. I know what bespoke means, thanks. But, apparently others do not, so I'll easily explain: Made-to-measure (MTM) is when a stock pattern is modified as much as possible by a company to your measurements. Whereas, Bespoke (custom) is when a custom pattern is made based on your measurements. T&A in their slim propaganda book entitled: Turnbull & Asser Shirtmakers, the pedigree and style of a very English institution, state that not only that bespoke is still carried out in their premises both in London and New York, but that they employ four cutters whose sole job it is to cut only shirts based on bespoke patterns. This can also be found on the T&A website: T&A Bespoke Which states: "Although our bespoke service is centered on shirts tailored precisely to customer specifications, we make almost any item of clothing 'from scratch'. Most recently we have formalized a service to make neckwear to order - for individuals, groups and special occasions such as weddings. The origin of the term 'bespoke' dates back to when customers ordering a suit or shirt could select and reserve a cloth that was then bespoken or 'spoken for'. Today, bespoke means 'made to personal specification' - in contrast to the more conventional 'made-to-measure' or 'customized' stock item. . For shirts, some 28 separate measurements are made to ensure the most flattering possible result. Habits such as the way a wrist-watch is worn and other unique needs and physical characteristics are all reflected in the final product. " Jon.The key word perhaps being "salesperson." Bespoke means a paper pattern is made for you, and the shirt is cut from this pattern. T&A takes measurements, and makes the shirt from the measurements. That's MTM, as defined by the industry for decades. I don't know five places in the world where one can get real bespoke shirts. Nor do I know why anyone would need them. Kabbaz is interesting because of the incredible collection of fabrics he's amassed. The quality is excellent, but in the context of a suit, a shirt is just underwear after all. Will