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How do you buy a bespoke t&a shirt

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by doughboysc, Oct 7, 2004.

  1. tdial

    tdial Senior member

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    (tdial @ 07 Oct. 2004, 3:11) Huge (and I mean HUGE) markups at Neiman's, as if that's a shock. Some of the fabrics were as much as 55% mark up.
    Markups run from anywhere to 25% to 60%. 55% isn't really HUGE. What did you expect the markup to be? Markups on jewlery are huge. around 100+%.
    Sorry. My point was that it's probably better to go to T&A directly since you can probably bargain with them and get a better deal than NM. I have done this before when I know I'm going to buy many items and spend a lot of money. For example, I was in NY on business and bought a Brioni sportcoat and tie and got them to give me several hundred dollars off, simply by implying that I'd likely just buy at NM in Atlanta in case I needed any adjustments, etc. They quickly knocked some $ off the retail price. I have never had anyone at NM move off of the retail price of anything. Now, if that sort of thing doesn't concern you, then so be it. But for me, anything I can save is a good thing, especially when buying at full retail (I know, if you can't afford the tag price at Brioni, then you shouldn't be buying...)
     


  2. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Mike C.,

    I was always under the impression that markup on designer goods was closer to 80-110%. Otherwise, how is any money made during seasonal sales, when discounts are regularly 30-40% off to begin with?

    I doubt any retailer thinks this anymore. Half price, or even 1/3 price Brioni, is pretty steep, even for the relatively affluent.
     


  3. Mike C.

    Mike C. Senior member

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    (Mike C. @ 08 Oct. 2004, 05:31)
    Huge (and I mean HUGE) markups at Neiman's, as if that's a shock. Some of the fabrics were as much as 55% mark up.
    Markups run from anywhere to 25% to 60%. 55% isn't really HUGE. What did you expect the markup to be? Markups on jewlery are huge. around 100+%.
    Sorry. My point was that it's probably better to go to T&A directly since you can probably bargain with them and get a better deal than NM. I have done this before when I know I'm going to buy many items and spend a lot of money. For example, I was in NY on business and bought a Brioni sportcoat and tie and got them to give me several hundred dollars off, simply by implying that I'd likely just buy at NM in Atlanta in case I needed any adjustments, etc. They quickly knocked some $ off the retail price. I have never had anyone at NM move off of the retail price of anything. Now, if that sort of thing doesn't concern you, then so be it. But for me, anything I can save is a good thing, especially when buying at full retail (I know, if you can't afford the tag price at Brioni, then you shouldn't be buying...)
    Wow, good to know for the future. Thanks. LAGuy: I will answer your question later, too busy now at work...
     


  4. doughboysc

    doughboysc Senior member

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    Do they have Turnbull & Asser MTM shirts at Neiman Marcus in Atlanta,GA?
     


  5. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    I can't see why they wouldn't.

    Out of curiosity, why do you post a thread and not participate in the discussion?

    Jon.
     


  6. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A couple of points based on nearly a hundred T&A shirts over the last 15 or so years.

    T&A does not make bespoke shirts. They are MTM. To the best of my knowledge, none of the well-known Jermyn Street shirtmaker makes a paper pattern any longer.

    Kabbaz in New York does. That's one of the reasons he's $100 a shirt more than T&A.

    Go to the nearest store and get measured. Once you do, you only need to go back to see the complex patterns. Ordering another blue royal oxford is a phone call, or should be.

    For the past two years, my calls have been returned so slowly, if at all, that I finally went to a Hong Kong shirtmaker.

    Will
     


  7. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    Huh, to my understanding they were willing to make bespoke shirts, at least according to the sales people at the NYC store.

    Jon.
     


  8. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The key word perhaps being "salesperson."

    Bespoke means a paper pattern is made for you, and the shirt is cut from this pattern.

    T&A takes measurements, and makes the shirt from the measurements. That's MTM, as defined by the industry for decades.

    I don't know five places in the world where one can get real bespoke shirts. Nor do I know why anyone would need them. Kabbaz is interesting because of the incredible collection of fabrics he's amassed. The quality is excellent, but in the context of a suit, a shirt is just underwear after all.

    Will
     


  9. tdial

    tdial Senior member

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    Doughboysc, don't worry about T&A MTM shirts. If you want to buy a T&A shirt and don't have the 250+ starting price of a T&A MTM, buy one off of ebay. There are loads of T&A shirts on ebay at very reasonable prices.

    The other steep entry barrier for T&A MTM at NM is that they have a 4 shirt minimum.
     


  10. banksmiranda

    banksmiranda Senior member

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    In addition to Kabbaz there are a number of custom(bespoke for Brits) shirtmakers in the world:

    Leonardo Bugelli in Florence
    Lanvin in Paris
    Mimmo Siviglia in Rome
    Angelo Pacinelli in Rome
    Geneva Custom Shirts in New York
    Anto in Beverly Hills
    Anna Matuozzo in Naples
    Sartoria Ypsilon in Milan
    Battistoni in Rome
    Finollo in Genova
    Merolla e de L'Ero in Naples
    Riddle-Mcintyre in Chicago
    Seewaldt & Bauman in New York

    and probably many more which I either don't know of or can't remember at the moment.
     


  11. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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  12. banksmiranda

    banksmiranda Senior member

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    That's what I was wondering re: Seewaldt & Bauman.
     


  13. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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  14. banksmiranda

    banksmiranda Senior member

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    Seewaldt & Bauman
    17 E 45th St.
    New York, NY

    (Freeport, NY 11520 location): (516) 379 8724

    I called the Freeport number and got an answering machine message indicating that it is Seewaldt & Bauman.
     


  15. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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