How do these sleeves look?

[MichaelPatrick]

Hi everyone,

I had one of those moments yesterday where suddenly I started thinking that I've been wearing the wrong size shirts. I've been professionally measured over the years and I always come out as a 17-35 (unless I put on a little weight and then I'm a 17.5-35). I also have an athletic build, and rely almost entirely on Charles Tyrwhitt Extra slim shirts. While this has been my go to for years, I really am wondering if I would do better in a 34 sleeve. I also noticed that the cuffs on 35 sleeves (and possibly 34 as well, but I'm not sure) are too wide and need to be brought in. Below are pictures that I just snapped and I would love you input on them.

The first photo is of my sleeve after I fastened the cuff with a bobby pin to my desired width. Specifically, I am interested in whether you think: 1) the sleeve looks too bunched up; and 2) is it more likely to look more bunched up after the cuff if brought in? For the second question, I am providing a picture of my other sleeve that has the cuff buttoned.

Finally, I am wondering if the cuff can be taken in without throwing off the sleeve and the arm hole? Am I going to have to pay for a complete tapering job if I fix every shirt?

Thanks!

Mike

 

[maxalex]

You’re getting into issues best addressed with bespoke shirts or at least MTM. Cuff circumference is almost always too big on OTR shirts; most guys don’t care or don’t notice, but if you can get your hand through the cuff when it’s buttoned, it’s too loose.

Moreover, if the cuff is properly snug around the wrist, a bit of extra length on the shirt is less of an issue since the cuff won’t be able to travel down past your wrist and over your hand—a sure sign of a clueless gentleman. (I’m talking half an inch; any more and the bunched-up fabric above the wrist will look like a pirate’s blouse.)

Rather than tailor OTR shirts, consider an online MTM company like Proper Cloth. They can even build in a watch allowance on one wrist. If you live near or travel to NYC you can get a fitting in their shop; otherwise the online fitting process is good, and the result is guaranteed.

 

[MichaelPatrick]

You’re getting into issues best addressed with bespoke shirts or at least MTM. Cuff circumference is almost always too big on OTR shirts; most guys don’t care or don’t notice, but if you can get your hand through the cuff when it’s buttoned, it’s too loose.

Moreover, if the cuff is properly snug around the wrist, a bit of extra length on the shirt is less of an issue since the cuff won’t be able to travel down past your wrist and over your hand—a sure sign of a clueless gentleman. (I’m talking half an inch; any more and the bunched-up fabric above the wrist will look like a pirate’s blouse.)

Rather than tailor OTR shirts, consider an online MTM company like Proper Cloth. They can even build in a watch allowance on one wrist. If you live near or travel to NYC you can get a fitting in their shop; otherwise the online fitting process is good, and the result is guaranteed.

I appreciate the feedback. I actually live in NYC but am on a fairly tight budget as a doctoral candidate. It is for that reason that I haven’t gone the bespoke route. For the time being, shirt makers like CT have proven to be affordable without a serious sacrifice in quality. Of course, I am running into issues with the cuff. I am still curious if you find the length to look problematic in the first photo where I brought the cuff in with a pin. If it looks good, I’ll just get the cuffs taken in. Otherwise I’ll ask my tailor to also shorten the sleeve and maybe even taper it. That being said, I want to avoid all the extra costs...

 

[maxalex]

The first photo looks good to me. Shortening sleeves is not easy. In NYC that probably costs $50. By then you’d be up to the price of a Proper Cloth MTM.

 

[caktaylor]

I think the first photo looks good. There doesn't appear to be a lot of excess sleeve length. A 34 would likely be too short with your sleeve riding up too much when you bend your arm. Of course, you can always go to a CT store and try on a 34 to see if it fits better (or order one online - they have free returns).

As an experiment, have the button on the sleeve moved to make the cuff a bit tighter; that shouldn't be too expensive. Or, you can do it yourself and save a bit of money. Try it on one shirt and see if it feels/looks too bunchy at the wrist. If it looks like the first photo looks, then I don't think it will be too bunchy.

You could also try an extra slim fit shirt from CT. I think they have narrower sleeves.

 

[MichaelPatrick]

I think the first photo looks goo. There doesn't appear to be a lot of excess sleeve length. A 34 would likely be too short with your sleeve riding up too much when you bend your arm. Of course, you can always go to a CT store and try on a 34 to see if it fits better (or order one online - they have free returns).

As an experiment, have the button on the sleeve moved to make the cuff a bit tighter; that shouldn't be too expensive. Or, you can do it yourself and save a bit of money. Try it on one shirt and see if it feels/looks too bunchy at the wrist. If it looks like the first photo looks, then I don't think it will be too bunchy.

You could also try an extra slim fit shirt from CT. I think they have narrower sleeves.

Thanks for your input, I will do that.

Also, this actually is an extra slim fit shirt. It and the super slim shirts both share the same tunnel-width cuffs for some unexplainable reason!

 

[Solverson]

The first photo looks good to me