- Aug 27, 2006
- Reaction score
How do one distinguish a full canvas suit from a fused suit just by touching it?
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Pinch the suit fabric above the breast pocket and rub the sides together. Then do the same on the back near the bottom. Does it feel thicker and smoother in the front?
I also use the pinch test below the bottom buttonhole. Just feel for the third layer.
half canvas is used by a lot of middle range lines these days; it's where only the chest is canvassed, and the rest below 3/4 of the jacket fused. the theory is that the chest drape matters most, and economically the rest of the jacket doesn't need to drape or curve as much, and so fusing the lower part saves money.
I can definitely tell if something is fully canvassed, but I have to agree that half canvass is tricky. There's no real standard for determining it, and testing the lapels for canvassing is very tricky as well.
i don't think it's tricky at all. pinch above the breast pocket to chest for "chest canvassing" and pinch below the bottom button to check for "full canvassing." if you can easily tell if something if fully canvassed, the fusing at the bottom should be an easy indication that it's a half canvassed suit.
I have two unlined sportscoats (one Loro Piana, the other Barbera), in which you can actually reach into the chest of the jacket. The Barbera is canvassed; the Loro Piana is fused -- in fact, it's so unconstructed that there is no material at all between the two layers of cloth anywhere, not even in the lapel. Is that normal in fused jackets?