How do I hide this fabric peeping out under my suit jacket collar?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by forbritisheyes, Feb 20, 2012.

  1. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    26
    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2012
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2012


  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Likes Received:
    1,114
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    The jacket yoke and under collar have stretched making the top collar too short, circumference wise, around the jacket. This causes the top collar to rise up. The fix is to shorten the under collar. There is usually a center seam on the under collar but this may be a one piece under collar. If so, you just make a seam where there wasn't one. You may need to take in the center back seam of the jacket. The tailor will know if it's necessary. This makes the top collar longer and everything under the collar shorter and the collar will lie down. Pressing will fix it for 60 seconds and it will return. If the tailor just wants to cut off the under collar that is showing to hide it, don't. Proceed to another tailor.
     


  3. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    26
    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2012
    Is there a detailed list of procedures I can read to test my tailor with to ensure it's being done correctly?
     


  4. cbbuff

    cbbuff Senior member

    Messages:
    1,251
    Likes Received:
    43
    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2010
    Location:
    Boulder, CO
    I think he just gave it to you :D
     


  5. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    26
    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2012
    Okay, my mom is going to fix the collar, and call her former "master" on how to do it. I pray to God that my jacket comes out as good as can be post-op.
     


  6. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Likes Received:
    1,114
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    There are other ways to make the under collar shorter like opening the under collar drawing in the yoke and shrinking it, adding a stay to keep it from stretching, putting tape on the under collar to draw it in. It doesn't matter as long as the top collar becomes bigger/longer than whats under the collar and the work done holds up so this doesn't repeat. I would dislike being tested rather then trusted by a client.
     


  7. BobL

    BobL Member

    Messages:
    7
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2012
    Location:
    Chicago
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2012


  8. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    26
    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2012
    I found the following method at: http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?99328-Coat-collar-lining-backing

    This will shorten the under-collar; however, it doesn't change the depth of the jacket's collar. Will this procedure need to be repeated over a span of several years(since it stretched from its original position as you say)? In the same vein, is there a way the lengthen the "over-collar"?

    **I did not mean test in a negative way. I just wanted to use someone else's expertise in this matter to verify that my tailor knows what she's doing in a polite manner.
     


  9. forbritisheyes

    forbritisheyes Senior member

    Messages:
    426
    Likes Received:
    26
    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2012


  10. The Louche

    The Louche Senior member

    Messages:
    1,217
    Likes Received:
    4
    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2008
    Location:
    DC
    I'm bumping this to see if others have more insight or experience with this (not that I don't trust Despos). This has happened on a few MTM coats of mine that are about 5 years old, and it is DRIVING ME CRAZY! After several failed attempts to fix the problem via pressing, I want to make 100% sure that I know how to communicate the fix to a tailor in order to stop this problem once and for all. The coats are un-wearable until this is fixed in my opinion.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by