How do I fix this (JANZTEN shirt)?

[bigskydream]

This is my second Janzten, and I can't seem to get rid of the excess fabric that bulges by my armpits (see first photo)? How do I fix this on my next order? Do I need to reduce my shoulder AND chest measurements?

Also, how does the rest of the shirt look? Sleeve length?

BTW...I ordered this the first week of November and received it this week.

Thanks!

 

[chorse123]

I think the shoulders are way too wide. If I were you I'd bring it in by about 3/4" on each side and extend the sleeve as necessary.

 

[HalfCanvas]

Nice looking fabric -- what number is it? I've been wanting to try Jantzen. Did Ricky send you confirmation that he received your order, or did it just show up?

The shoulders do need to be brought in a bit on each side -- you should have the shoulder seam right on the line where your shoulder bone meets the soft tissue. The top side of the seam will be running more or less parallel to the ground, and the arm hole will basically be like a tire of a car running flat on the ground. Right now your armhole, to the extent you analogize is to a car tire, is "running on its edge." If you reduce the shoulder width, you'll probably want to add an additional .25" or so to the overall sleeve length.

I can't comment on other sizing issues, since it's hard to tell with your shirt untucked. However, shrinking the chest is not necessarily what you'll need to do to get rid of the "armpit" fabric. Bringing in the shoulders will help somewhat. Making the armhole itself smaller (which is something you'll have to specially request, I think) should take care of the rest.

 

[bigskydream]

Thanks for the feedback.

The fabric is Checkers #144.

I got a response from Ricky after sending about 3 or 4 emails.

Any more feedback. Sleeve length? I really hope I can get it just right with the next shirt.

 

[HalfCanvas]

In my opinion, the sleeves seem good. Whether you want to lengthen them a bit more is a matter of comfort and personal taste, I think. They seem to be the right length, but I'd add .25" to make up for narrowing the shoulders, because they will effectively fit slightly tighter and pull more when you move your arms.

 

[lawyerdad]

I agree with the other comments. Sleeve length looks good, subject to tweaking when you change the shoulder measurement. Asking them to make a narrower armhole might help with the "armpit" issue - it's a modification that many people (myself included) make because Jantzen's standard armhole is pretty wide.

 

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by lawyerdad

it's a modification that many people (myself included) make because Jantzen's standard armhole is pretty wide.

Apologies for hi-jacking the thread, somewhat, but are there any other 'traits' - such as the one mentioned above - that one should be aware of when ordering from Jantzen?

I have a very good idea of the fit that I want to achieve, but I would not want to inadvertently overlook anything.

Thanks

 

[Shirtmaven]

what is your chest measurement?
What is the yoke measurement?

Carl

www.cego.com

 

[bigskydream]

On this order, chest measurement was 38.5 and yoke (I guess you mean shoulder) measurement was 19.

On the next order, I think I will go with a 37.5 chest and 18 shoulder.

 

[j]

Originally Posted by MikeB

Apologies for hi-jacking the thread, somewhat, but are there any other 'traits' - such as the one mentioned above - that one should be aware of when ordering from Jantzen?

I have a very good idea of the fit that I want to achieve, but I would not want to inadvertently overlook anything.

Thanks

Do a search on Jantzen, but the only one I can remember (IIRC) is that the sleeves are often short.

 

[Shirtmaven]

19" is too large for your chest measurement.
It is hard for me to really help a I do not know your actual chest measuremnt and I do not know the size of the arm hole.

You may want to leave the chest the same and just ask Jantzen to raise the a/h.

carl

www.cego.com

 

[HalfCanvas]

Carl, is there a particularly common chest/shoulder ratio? My measurements are 39/18.5. Does that seem common?

 

[Shirtmaven]

Originally Posted by HalfCanvas

Carl, is there a particularly common chest/shoulder ratio? My measurements are 39/18.5. Does that seem common?
the measurement has chaanged as styles have changed when I first started in biz some 20 something years ago a med/15 1/2 carries an 18.5 yoke. At one point the measurement was as high as 20.5 on a 15 1/2.

Now it is back down to 18.5

Carl

 

[royal618]

Is there a guide to self measurement available anywhere?

 

[Newton]

http://www.kjbeckettbespokeshirts.com/