How did Naples become renowned for mens fashion?

[Mr Herbert]

Not sure if this has been covered before, but how did Naples become such a center of mens fashion?

 

[Nicola]

They put buffalo cheese on pizza

 

[iyorito]

Not fashion but regional style and craft of tailoring and shirtmaking.

 

[Manton]

I don't know the complete answer but part of the answer surely is that Wilkes Bashford and Louis Boston began importing Kiton and Borrelli in the mid-90s (perhaps before) and promoting those brands and the whole Naples "style."

I recall, dimly, a Bruce Boyer piece in Forbes in (I believe) 1997 that was all about Naples. That's the first popular press accound that I can remember. There was a longer Departures piece not long after that covered much of the same ground.

Marinella was famous throughout Europe for a long time but unknown in the US until 1999 when Bergdorf started to carry the ties and Maurizio himself came 2x/year to take bespoke measurements.

Vox and portnoy would know more.

 

[maomao1980]

I reckon the Japanese also played a huge part in popularizing the style internationally, directly and indirectly

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by maomao1980

I reckon the Japanese also played a huge part in popularizing the style internationally, directly and indirectly

Yes and no. They got there "first"; that is, there were Japanese men going and buying suits, shirts etc. before Naples was on the American radar. But their enthusiasm didn't spread to other countries.

Still, I remember when Naples first started to get hot a European who had been getting his clothes there for a long time said to me that first the Japanese had bid up all the prices and now the damned Americans were gong to come and make everything much worse.

 

[Will]

Predating the other comments, Naples and southern Italy generally were grand tour and extended vacation spots for wealthy 19th century Englishmen (pre Unification the city was a virtual English colony). Just as happened in Hong Kong, the visitors gave their Savile Row clothes to local tailors to be copied, kick-starting the tailoring tradition.

 

[mr monty]

fyi


http://www.cigaraficionado.com/webfeatures/show/id/1492

 

[Mr Herbert]

so combining Manton and Wills replies, im assuming it established as a centre for mens clothing via the English tourism during the Grand Tours era, and became popular in America due to importers pushing Neapolitan brands.

I suppose the ready availability of labour also helped it develop and probably encouraged its more 'handmade' (and therefore luxury) image.

I suppose the soft look has to play a role as well, in so far as it seems to differentiate Naples from other menswear capitals - so does Scholte have a role to play also? The soft look seems increasingly fashionable although its hard to know wether this is a result of Neapolatan success or a driver of it.

Also in regards to maomao's point, a region could do much worse than have the patronage of Japanese men, who seem to to be regarded as particuarly stylish.

monty, i will read that article when i get home from work, thanks

 

[dieworkwear]

Originally Posted by Will

Predating the other comments, Naples and southern Italy generally were grand tour and extended vacation spots for wealthy 19th century Englishmen (pre Unification the city was a virtual English colony). Just as happened in Hong Kong, the visitors gave their Savile Row clothes to local tailors to be copied, kick-starting the tailoring tradition.
I believe the local gentry also helped developed a strong sartorial culture, and they essentially financed the development of skilled craftsmanship in the area. Bespoke suits and shirts were made at a fairly rapid rate, mostly for the same small gentry class that had little better to do than to experiment with fit.