How can you determine "quality" cashmere?

[nighttrain7404]

Hello.

I've seen lots of different kinds of cashmere as of late.

I wanted to know your input on how to distinguish the good from the not so good, and the exquisite from the pedestrian.

A friend of mind mentioned that quality cashmere doesn't "fray" and look busy.
It's tightly wound and smooth.

Most cashmere will have smooth properties but only the very best will not frizz out or have split ends per say.

I see some cashmere shirts/sweaters that have a lot of fuzz and others that don't. Is that a good determinant?

 

[kitonbrioni]

Try to determine where the item was made. Typically, high quality cashmere is from Scotland or Italy. I have found good quality cashmere at great prices at Costco.

 

[norcaltransplant]

Frisk the goat. I prefer rubber soles instead of leather for stealth.

 

[DuncanM]

I have been wondering the same lately. I was looking at cashmere sweaters in Nordstrom the other day and ended up getting one from Scotland. I picked it because it felt much better and I seemed to recall Scotland was good for Cashmere.

I'm sure there is a difference with say the Chinese cashmere but it would be nice to know why good cashmere is better.

 

[nmoraitis]

"Frisk the goat. I prefer rubber soles instead of leather for stealth."

^^^

 

[masqueofhastur]

Originally Posted by kitonbrioni

Try to determine where the item was made. Typically, high quality cashmere is from Scotland or Italy. I have found good quality cashmere at great prices at Costco.

Is the Costco Cashmere made in Scotland/Italy?

 

[Holdfast]

I received a Mongolian cashmere scarf as an early Christmas present from a colleague. A lovely dogtooth pattern and I'm very touched and delighted to receive it because the person who gave it clearly put some real thought into what I might like. I'm very grateful for it and will get lots of happy use out of it.

But comparing it to Italian and Scottish cashmere scarves I own, the differences are clear. It's thinner, less tightly woven, creases more easily and will definitely pill and fray sooner. But I suspect/know the price was a tiny fraction of the Italian/Scottish mills so the relative lack of durability is more than acceptable on that level.

 

[masqueofhastur]

So the tighter the weave of cashmere the better quality is, all else being equal?

What about knitted cashmere?

Is there some dependance on the yarn being used?

 

[Holdfast]

^ not necessarily, I wouldn't have thought. But in the case of the scarf I mentioned, I suspect it's less tightly woven in order to make economies of scale by using marginally less material per scarf.

 

[billiebob]

Anyone have any experience with Uniqlo cashmere? It's only 90 bucks for crewneck or v-neck at retail. I can't imagine it's the greatest stuff, but it doesn't look or feel at all "fuzzy" when new.

The local Lord and Taylor often has cashmere sweaters on sale for around $100 (down from $200). They are as soft as my Loro Piana, and are more durable than I would have expected given the price.

 

[lefty]

Originally Posted by billiebob

Anyone have any experience with Uniqlo cashmere? It's only 90 bucks for crewneck or v-neck at retail. I can't imagine it's the greatest stuff, but it doesn't look or feel at all "fuzzy" when new.

The local Lord and Taylor often has cashmere sweaters on sale for around $100 (down from $200). They are as soft as my Loro Piana, and are more durable than I would have expected given the price.

I tried the Uniqlo and found it to be the roughest cashmere I've ever felt.

I have a very nice summer weight Italian cashmere sweater by J Crew that I love. Only available in the summer though.

lefty

 

[demeis]

I think that price/make and feel are the best ways to determine quality. Cashmere should be smooth but not to smooth. If its to smooth is not a high quality cashmere, it might feel good but will not last long. It will most likely became shinny fast and it will be to delicate to wear. Also price is big too. Cheaper cashmeres are cheap because they are aloud to put up to 2% angora in them and still claim its 100% cashmere. I.E. the items from cheap departments stores, jos. banks etc. This is most stuff from china and its how they keep the prices down. Most stuff from Italy and Scotland will be 100% cashmere.

 

[horton]

My understanding is that higher quality cashmere is a result of longer fibers that are less likely to break and pill over time. This only comes from certain parts of the goat and as a result of the scarcity costs more.

Initial feel of cashmere can be misleading because poor quality cashmere may be made to feel soft. Also, in my experience, some of the Scottish made items feel stiffer initially but soften up -- like great leather breaking in and getting better with age.

If I'm buying a classic style, I think it's worth the expense to go better cashmere.

If something is trendier then....

Also if you're thinking of a classic style (e.g., navy or gray crew or v-neck) but don't want to drop the $$, think about getting a better quality merino wool. With all the hype on cashmere you can get great deals on high quality wool. For example, a regular old wool sweater from Avon Celli is very soft AND very durable

 

[thinman]

Multi-ply yarn will also be less susceptible to pilling.

I think merino wool is probably the quality/price sweet spot, as it is also very soft but more durable than cashmere, but it's not always easy to find. Chinese cashmere is everywhere.

 

[masqueofhastur]

Originally Posted by thinman

Multi-ply yarn will also be less susceptible to pilling.

I think merino wool is probably the quality/price sweet spot, as it is also very soft but more durable than cashmere, but it's not always easy to find. Chinese cashmere is everywhere.

I've found Merino wool quite easy to find. I got the impression that there's some vagueness about what is allowed to be called Merino, and it is sometimes used for any "fine" wool, and the definition of "fine" is apparently left up to the manufacturer.