House of Salgado (Toronto)

[Sprezzatura Custom]

There are actually a number of places in Toronto offering True Bespoke (I mean in the tradition of what a Savile Row enthusiast would put it). Toronto is sort of a hotbed for tailoring:

Stavros
Nikos
Fernando SR. (Former of Harry Rosen Bespoke)
Nello at Harry Rosen

I classify bespoke as:
Garment made on premises with a large degree of handwork
Full individual paper pattern for client
Multiple fittings
Selection from the best cloth in the world

I've explored the idea of offering bespoke, but its something that is becoming harder and harder thing to do with the shrinking labor force of skilled tailors.

 

[Donald]

I have bought 4 suits and numerous shirts from House of Salgado. Tony and his son Mark know their stuff. The process is you go in talk to them discuss your style and the type of suit or shirt you want. Then they will make suggestions about the cut and fabric that will suit you best. The suit fabrics I chose were 2 Barberis super 130's, Dormeuil Tropical super 130's and Wainshield 110's. The shirt fabrics are from Thomas Mason and and Italian mill. The prices are very reasonable for the quality. During the next step Tony takes a full array of measurments. In about 3 weeks you go in for a suit fitting of the jacket and Tony notes any changes that need to be made. 2 weeks after that you go in for a final fitting of both jacket and pants and Tony will make any final adjustments for you. I have gotten many compliments on my suits and shirts I always feel proud and confident when I wear them.

 

[Donald]

Triniboy27 are you from Trinidad? I am and I like my suits to fit me well.

 

[TRINI]

Originally Posted by Donald

Triniboy27 are you from Trinidad? I am and I like my suits to fit me well.

Yes sir I am.

Not sure if you know but Don Lee of Trend Tailors as mentioned in this thread is also a Trini.

 

[Donald]

yes I have met him. Actually he went to The University of Western Ontario, the same time I did. I got a tour of his operation last week and liked what I saw. I also tried on a jacket he had made for someone else and it fit like a glove. He has a very good eye. I will give him a try for my next suit. Have you bought any suits or shirts from him? Do you like them, the fit, cut, pants? Do you work downtown? I'm at Bay and Front, we should grab a beer.

 

[TRINI]

I'm at Bay and King myself and I'm down for a drink any time.

I haven't used him as yet but my mother knows his wife's and his family quite well and his brother was a prefect when I was in high school (he now actually works at the same company as I do). She was the one who was telling me about him so I've got to give him a call and go check the operation out.

I've only heard good things to date. btw and I'm always happy to support our peoples. I was just actually mentioning in the Maurice Sedwell thread that Andy Ramroop is a Trini as well.

 

[Donald]

Don told me he is a good friend of Ramroop at Maurice Sedwell. I'm up for a beer 416 842 6800

 

[luigithecat]

A note on bespoke

I suppose that there are a few criteria for a suit to be considered bespoke, in my mind these things are what makes true bespoke very expensive (always very expensive) aside from a drafted pattern and numerous fittings, things like how the canvas is attached to the jacket fronts (fuse tape, or handstitched in with tailor's tape) how lapels are padstitched (by machine or by hand) wether an undercollar is padstitched or pre-made, the interfacing in the hems (fuse, or bias cotton), button holes (machine or hand sewn), and a lining inserted entirely by hand.

These are the construction details that make bespoke very expensive. You cannot make bespoke according to this definition for $750 and turn a profit. This is not to say that a jacket made with some help from modern materials (fuse tape, machine buttonholes etc.) is not good. Chances are that is very good as no tailor gets a good reputation by turning out a second rate product.

It is possible that the more traditional methods are falling away because there are few people with enough cash to drop several thousand dollars on a suit. Tailors keep up with the times if they want to survive and this means that more of us can afford this modern version of bespoke.