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House of Boateng

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by GreyFlannelMan, Jun 22, 2006.

  1. rdawson808

    rdawson808 Senior member

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    i thought he was charming, not really smug at all. just entrepreneurial. he's got good energy.

    the phrase was something like 'smoke that shit'. i think he was just trying to hype up the models backstage. it was funny when he sent the photog out there on the catwalk.



    Yes, I agree. I didn't find him to be obnoxious at all. He was just thrilled about life and really dying to make it in the US.

    Having his photog friend fill in was great. Especially since he seemed to do so well--which just points out that it takes no talent whatsoever to be a model. You only have to look the part.

    bob
     
  2. Duveen

    Duveen Senior member

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    Finally saw the Tivo'd first episode. Interesting but not great. Ozwald seems intense, very self-conscious about his image (it felt like he was playing to the camera when making adjustments to the patternsfor his RTW suiting - "Make the armhole higher, more Edwaaaardian") and he has not, thus far, displayed much business acumen. Just a large ego and a ton of energy. Which helps, don't get me wrong, but is not all that is needed to succeed. He seems more enthusiastic than entrepreneurial - I wonder if he has succeeded despite himself from a business perspective. He has not been shown as the captain of the ship from a strategy perspective. For example, he does not seem to have much of a reason for going into the US other than that he wants to and it is a big market (but so is China), and I have no sense why he would jump in with his own dedicated stores (much higher risk) vs showing a collection within boutiques (or is he already doing this?). Anyhow...I am as interested in the practicalities of this as I am in seeing Ozwald preen and praising his own early suits, but I am likely an outlier in that regard.
     
  3. rdawson808

    rdawson808 Senior member

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    He seems more enthusiastic than entrepreneurial - I wonder if he has succeeded despite himself from a business perspective. He has not been shown as the captain of the ship from a strategy perspective. For example, he does not seem to have much of a reason for going into the US other than that he wants to and it is a big market (but so is China),

    Definitely. I think his attitude is (and actually didn't he say this) "I want X, you figure out how to get it, that's why I hired you." That said, in the previews for the next show, he seems clueless about some of the technicalities. Why isn't he hiring an attorney or someone to tell him exactly what has to be done (maybe he has).

    As for why the US, just because it is important I suppose. He feels that will be a sign of true success on a grander scale and so that's why he's doing it. There doesn't have to be a pure profit motive. He could be motivated by....wait for it.....ego! And just the sense of making himself happy.


    Anyhow...I am as interested in the practicalities of this as I am in seeing Ozwald preen and praising his own early suits, but I am likely an outlier in that regard.

    I'm with you on this. I am actually waiting to see all about the technical aspects of this. I don't study franchising in particular, but it is on the periphery of what I do study, industry structure and agency theory, so it will be interesting to see what motivates him to choose a particular agreement to sell in the US. And we get cool men's clothing thrown in.

    bob
     
  4. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Boateng is sold in a store in LA called Traffic. I don't think he is sold anywhere else in the US although I could be wrong.

    Sounds like Gastineau Girls, only with a man. Whatever happened to the Gastineau daughter? I think her name was Brittney.
     
  5. Get Smart

    Get Smart Senior member

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    Boateng is sold in a store in LA called Traffic.

    yep, but their collection is pretty limited. I remember seeing Boateng in the frisco Saks back in the mid 90s. It would be nice to have a store to see the full range of his gear. I've yet to see any shirts from his upper 'bespoke couture' line, just OZ which arent very good.
     
  6. rdawson808

    rdawson808 Senior member

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    So it seems like his previous attempt was only having his stuff in other people's stores (just Sack's). So his new attempt then is to have his own store. Makes sense. Maybe he figures his name is big enough now to make it with his own storefront.

    bob
     
  7. Duveen

    Duveen Senior member

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    Maybe he figures his name is big enough now to make it with his own storefront. bob
    That's where I think he may get educated by the market. His name just ain't that big - he's no Paul Smith and a lot of his stuff is fairly hard to wear. This show will help increase name recognition to some extent, but most watchers won't be buyers, and if he is trying to open six locations at once he will be hit hard when the spotlight turns away from him and he is stuck with all that real estate and merch. I think that setting up in LA is interesting - downside is that LA people dress waaaaaaay down. Upside is that they might go for this from a nightlife perspective. I think he might do better in Miami (who knows, he may be looking there, too). To your earlier point, Bob, I don't expect too much nitty gritty given the stuff I've seen so far. The interesting bits are likely to come out of his pitches to funders, who do know business and who are likely to ask the tough questions that he ought to be asking himself. There was a scene in the latest preview that made me think that this might happen - some blond dude with stubble bitching him out about sthng. Basically, the only way that the director will show the 'rolling up your sleeves' stuff will be through confrontation scenes, so there will be a ton of filling in the missing pieces if one hopes to understand the business logic (if there is any) to what OB is doing here.
     
  8. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [multiple post]
     
  9. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I know a fair amount about Boateng, by dint of being an RJman (there are others of us out there). The O-Z line was originally a diffusion line sold at Debenhams, a Macy's-like British dept store. I'd be surprised it is sold in the States.

    In the States, around the time that Tony Blair became the grinning lapdog at 10 Downing (ie, PM), Austin Powers came out and Britpop in the forms of Oasis (shudder), Pulp and others were reigning, a "Cool Britannia" fad hit the US for several years from 1997-1999. A lot of the so-called New Savile Row were picked up for a few seasons in Saks, Neimans and Barneys, including RJ, Timothy Everest, Marc Powell and Boateng. Most of the items featured splashy color and waisted-cut suits. They faded out of such stores onto the outlet racks after a few years. Barneys kept with the RJ, I believe, though.

    Boateng has talked of breaking into the US and opening up a shop -- in Manhattan, for one -- for many seasons now, each time announcing it would be happening next season. I believe he has a Moscow establishment, convenient as his wife is Russian and his flamboyant, OTT style -- like Berluti or Versace before him -- is going to appeal to those who want to flaunt their wealth.

    Boateng has maintained and grown a Hollywood following, particularly among actors of African-American descent. (I mean nothing racial by this.) There's been some exaggeration in the press -- AFAIK, Pierce Brosnan wears RJ (on his own time) rather than Boateng; Boateng mainly supplied a suit for the Stamper character in the Bond film Tomorrow Never Dies, whence the confusion. Boateng also dressed Lawrence Fishburne for the Matrix sequels premieres, as well as the twins -- I don't know if he made their outfits in the movie though. RJ and Spencer Hart have shop-in-shops wrapped up in Bergdorf, and I can't see OB there. I think he could hope to establish himself as an LA answer to those tailors.

    I'm surprised Givenchy hasn't tried to push its menswear, which he designs, the way Dior Homme has been pushed. It has far better name recognition than Boateng, even if the Givenchy stuff was all licensed before.
     
  10. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    House of Negrila, its competing reality show following the harrowed life of a post-Soviet tailor as he attempts to keep up with the burgeoning orders of adoptive Rumanian David Bresch... with hilarious results!!!!

    See him negotiate with Vassili the local Mafioso for protection from "Acts of Mafioso"...

    Witness him haggle with suppliers for the finest French catmere...

    Watch him mack it on the streets of Transylvania in his styling ZiL (unintentional) drop top...

    Listen to him tread the verbal minefield that is a call from... the House of Bresch...
     
  11. imageWIS

    imageWIS Senior member

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    Whatever happened to the Gastineau daughter? I think her name was Brittney.
    I can’t know for sure, but I’m guessing: Coke? Jon.
     
  12. Margaret

    Margaret Senior member

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    She's too smart for that. Possibly planning for the accidental release of a sex tape on the net. One featuring her and her estranged former lover/illegal alien personal assistant, Mayra.
     
  13. koobalicious

    koobalicious Well-Known Member

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    To your earlier point, Bob, I don't expect too much nitty gritty given the stuff I've seen so far. The interesting bits are likely to come out of his pitches to funders, who do know business and who are likely to ask the tough questions that he ought to be asking himself. There was a scene in the latest preview that made me think that this might happen - some blond dude with stubble bitching him out about sthng.

    Basically, the only way that the director will show the 'rolling up your sleeves' stuff will be through confrontation scenes, so there will be a ton of filling in the missing pieces if one hopes to understand the business logic (if there is any) to what OB is doing here.


    i agree that it'll be hard to cover so much in 30 minute episodes, but from the episode guides on the official site, it looks like they do show a lot of different aspects of running one's own label internationally - having to manage offices on both sides of the atlantic, fitting models, meeting with real estate folks to scout out a store location, interior designers, putting on a show while also coming up with new concepts for the next season, etc. etc. of course, it'll all be from Boateng's perspective (after all the show is about him) and i hope that sundance channel gives us an exclusive look at all those behind-the-scene stuff.
     
  14. koobalicious

    koobalicious Well-Known Member

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    so last night's episode was especially good with the show at pompidou - loved all the clothes and i like how they incorporate comments from Marco Gobetti, Ricardo Tisci, and the stylists Boateng works with, etc. gives the show more of a depth to it than just following around Boateng in his business endeavors. did anyone else catch it?
     
  15. Get Smart

    Get Smart Senior member

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    I thought it was a good episode as well. Really liked much of the clothing. Altho at this point it seems (and from seeing next week's previews) that he ISN'T going to open a store in LA. At least that's the impression they're sending out, but maybe that's the "conflict/drama" aspect of the show.
     
  16. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I thought it was a good episode as well. Really liked much of the clothing. Altho at this point it seems (and from seeing next week's previews) that he ISN'T going to open a store in LA. At least that's the impression they're sending out, but maybe that's the "conflict/drama" aspect of the show.
    Maybe they will pull a "Joe Millionaire" twist at the end and give him, like, a shop-in-shop...

    I wish they had this show in Freedom...
    The clips (on the website) are amusing though... The Ryan Seacrest bit is a race to the bottom between people of little depth.

    At any rate, no shop of Oz's is going to get by selling his bespoke suits at $5000 or $6000 a pop... Any retail outpost is going to have to sell mainly his RTW line. Maybe Miami Vice will help -- I understand he designed (part of?) the wardrobe for it.
     
  17. koobalicious

    koobalicious Well-Known Member

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    yeah from "scenes from the next episode" it seems like he was back in NYC looking at real estate there so maybe there's a possibility of LA AND New York?? either way it can't be easy to find a good space for an affordable price. the drama ensues and tension rises... [​IMG]

    you're right, he did design for the new Miami Vice movie - this might be one of the suits he did?
    [​IMG]

    i also heard that he did something for Matrix Reloaded too - i can definitely see that, the colors and the lines that Boateng emphasizes. we've definitely seen more of his works around than we are aware.
     
  18. rdawson808

    rdawson808 Senior member

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    yeah from "scenes from the next episode" it seems like he was back in NYC looking at real estate there so maybe there's a possibility of LA AND New York??


    Well, didn't he say at some point in the 2nd episode that it would be best to open 5 or 6 stores? He listed LA, NYC, Miami, Chicago. Were there others?

    bob
     
  19. Get Smart

    Get Smart Senior member

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    ...and Vegas.

    now that's a risky venture, opening that many stores at once with almost zero brand recognition.
     
  20. GreyFlannelMan

    GreyFlannelMan Senior member

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    ...and Vegas.

    now that's a risky venture, opening that many stores at once with almost zero brand recognition.


    I agree that I raised an eyebrow when he said Vegas. It's not like people really dress up there...

    Focusing on LA and NY seems natural to me. Miami and Chicago should come as part of a second phase a couple of years after successful openings of the first two (although I question how widely he'll appeal to folks in both cities).
     

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