Hong Kong tailors - A Man Hing Cheong vs. Y William Yu

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gumbolo, Nov 9, 2009.

  1. gumbolo

    gumbolo Well-Known Member

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    CMT stand for Cut, Make, Trim.
    You provide the Fabric, the house do the rest.
    AMHC charge around HKD6,000 for CMT. If you know where to buy fabrics, you could get 3-3.5m super 130 you used less than HKD3,000, it make the price of the suit under HKD9,000 instead of 14,000 you paid. If you want to save more, just make the jacket in AMHC, and the pants at other place, you can cut the price to under HKD7,000. That is what I do. [​IMG]



    Thanks, got it. I actually had asked them earlier, but thought it would make things to complicated for me, as I wouldn't know how to get the cloth by myself. I am living in Korea. Where do you buy the cloth in HK usually? Is there a go-to wholesaler?

    Anyway, AMHC's cloth is really awesome. They specifically mentioned that it was one of their expensive cloths, while I could easily have chosen a suit for 9000 HKD.
     


  2. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    Yea, I know what their super 130s are. The fabrics is not bad at all, just shouldn't be that expensive.
    You can buy the cloth online or you can buy it at the wholesalers.
     


  3. gazman70k

    gazman70k Senior member

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    CMT stand for Cut, Make, Trim.
    You provide the Fabric, the house do the rest.
    AMHC charge around HKD6,000 for CMT. If you know where to buy fabrics, you could get 3-3.5m super 130 you used less than HKD3,000, it make the price of the suit under HKD9,000 instead of 14,000 you paid. If you want to save more, just make the jacket in AMHC, and the pants at other place, you can cut the price to under HKD7,000. That is what I do. [​IMG]


    Did I read that right? HKD6,000 for CMT!

    Wow! I must be a small timer.
     


  4. Mr Herbert

    Mr Herbert Senior member

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    $AU830 seems ok? how much to buy a good british made cloth?
     


  5. gumbolo

    gumbolo Well-Known Member

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    Any more comments about the pics, please?
     


  6. dragon8

    dragon8 Senior member

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    I thought both suits look nice but AMHC is more fitted as you stated. One thing that bothered me in both suits-I thought the length of the coats was a little short. Did you want it that short or is it the way you're standing?

    Are you going to fix the YWY coat to make it fitted?
     


  7. maomao1980

    maomao1980 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Regardless of what people think of the suits or the prices, this is an excellent first post. Welcome
     


  8. gumbolo

    gumbolo Well-Known Member

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    Short? It could be the picture, because at first sight I had actually thought it might be a tick too long. When I compared to my other MTM suits, though, the length seemed quite ok.

    Another point I just read in another post: bespoke/custom-made doesn't necessarily mean tightly fitted. I also think the AMHC one looks better, because it is more tight, while the YWY suit makes me look bigger. However, I am wearing it today and actually it feels quite nice except for maybe the armholes which could be a tick higher.
     


  9. WillowPrince

    WillowPrince Member

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    On the length, I thought the YWY suit was just right while the A-Man was a tick short - but that is personal taste. Both have come out well. Congratulations on two nice suits.
     


  10. cdmoore1855

    cdmoore1855 Senior member

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    I have experience with AMHC and concur that they make good fitting suit, the handiwork is not as fine as WW Chan though. Also I was not asked much in way of input to the suits, it was merely a case of pointing out the suit style from a book of illustrations and that's it. When I went to Chan's, they asked a lot more questions such as the type of seams I wanted, the stitching etc.

    AMHC tend to steer you towards their house cloths which are usually no name merchants but still fairly good quality, they tend to keep the cloth books for the major merchants hidden unless you ask for them. They are also very proud of themselves and will try to tell you other tailor's around time are less ethical than themselves (mainly the non Chinese tailors around town). The boss there can come across as a little rude but once you get to know him he is in fact ok. The choice of linings is much better at AMHC than any other place in HK, they have some really funky ones.

    I have not tried William Yu or Gordon Yau but would likely head back to Chan again unless I can pick up cloth myself and opt for CMT at AMHC instead to get a larger saving on the price.
     


  11. GuidoWongolini

    GuidoWongolini Senior member

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    I went into A Man earlier this year..

    I was wearing a Chan & they said why come here, Chan is the best!

    Must have been my slopping shoulders..
     


  12. gazman70k

    gazman70k Senior member

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    Thanks for posting the pictures. Note that I am no Vox MoK, yfyf or Maowao. I am neither Moo nor Foo. Or am I phatty or gnatty, barims or neo. Plus I don't have the best fit myself. After all those disclaimers and you still care what I think my comments are as follows:

    1) Both pants could be taken up a little, say 3/4 of an inch. I am not firmly in the "no break" camp but both pairs seem a little long. However, it is consistent with the way HKG tailors cut pants on the longer side if no specific instructions are given.

    2) Regardless of length, it seems like the AMan pants is slimmer than the YWY. This is again personal preference but the YWY pants seem to agree with you more. The pull you have on the AMan pants around the thigh is a little unsightly

    3) The AMan suit has a longer and slimmer silhouette than the YWY, whihc makes you look taller relative to the YWY suit. This is probably due to the longer lapels, shorter and slimmer sleeves, shorter jacket and slimmer pants, not withstanding your note about the YWY suit not being refitted as the AMan. If you are not a fan of an hour glass silhouette (like me), be sure not to take in too much at the waist on the YWY. For what its worth, I like the YWY shoulders better. They seem more natural to me.

    4) The proportions of the YWY look fine to me as is. The fuller sleeves work well with the chest and overall jacket length. The shoulders of the YWY seem more natural than the AMan.

    5) From the back, there seems to be a smidge of extra fabric here an there but otherwise both look nice.

    6) Overall, two very nice fitting suits of different styles. I wouldn't change too much other than consider shortening the the length of both pants and maybe shorten the sleeves of the YWY a fraction.
     


  13. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    MHC handle heavy cloth much better than the thin one. (or Who wasn't?)
    The service at AMHC is good. They do whatever you ask for and don't charge extra cost.
    Like stitching along the seams on shoulders, dart, sleeves and outer pant seams. (some tailors ask for 1,500 extra for those stitching)
    However, if you don't ask, they won't do it.
    They also use real horn buttons.

    Christian, may be you should try Gordon next time.
     


  14. gazman70k

    gazman70k Senior member

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    I went into A Man earlier this year..

    I was wearing a Chan & they said why come here, Chan is the best!

    Must have been my slopping shoulders..


    That is because A Man know that you are a ma fan client.
     


  15. Fishball

    Fishball Senior member

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    That is because A Man know that you are a ma fan client.
    hahaha [​IMG]

    I think they know their finishing is not as good as Chan, and overall can't do better than Chan.
     


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