Hong Kong Tailoring Style: a guest series on ASW

[apropos]

Originally Posted by Svenn

My current plan is to try Steed... and I'm thinking I might even have to request a gusset in the armpit.
A fortuitous choice, for Steed is...

 

[Svenn]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

You might only be gratified by a Dege Phitwell.

http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum...hp?f=36&t=6309


- B

That is awesome! Though I thought a gusset/pleat like that would be more helpful for mobility if it was located in the armpit rather than in the upper back, no? Do you think Steed would be able to make something like Dege did there?

Originally Posted by JLibourel

This business about the "severe tension" on your upper arms doesn't sound right to me--precisely the kind of thing we go to bespoke to avoid.

Out of curiosity, what is your flexed upper arm measurement? And shoulder width relative to chest size? I should think shoulder width rather than any dimensions of the upper back would be the critical measurement here.

That's what I thought too, so you can imagine my irritation when I feel like my jacket's going to tear or rip every time I lift up my arm. I'd gladly do those measurements you suggested, but I'm not sure how to do them... my chest appears to be 102 cm in circumference, and my upper body circumference with my arms down (around the deltoids) is 122cm. If by 'upper arm' you mean bicep, it's 30cm. My shoulder width is 47 cm, measured from the last point on my shoulder where I could still feel bone (acromion to acromion). But Chan said my latissimus dorsi were the problem, at least their bulkiness made it hard for them to fit the shirt.

 

[TheDarkKnight]

Originally Posted by apropos

A fortuitous choice, for Steed is...


Good work adding the "iGents", that's some good editing!

 

[dah328]

Originally Posted by apropos

What has never been established objectively - not by paid advertorials, and certainly not by customers - is whether A&S or the Neapolitan shirtsleeve shoulders actually do what you mention.

Hopefully, jeffereyd will take this up for his next instalment of sartorial mythbusting. He has already debunked to some extent several sartorial myths - that bespoke clothes last a lifetime, that the hand-sewn shoulder is more elastic than the machine-sewn one, and that the larger sleeve fed into the smaller armscye can only be done by hand.
Out of curiosity, where is that particular debunking? I am interested in what he found.

 

[couch]

Originally Posted by Svenn

By looking at suits like Fred Astaire's, I know its possible to achieve high mobility...
Bearing in mind, of course, that Astaire's upper body was whippet-thin. He probably burned as many calories training and rehearsing as a marathoner. So the techniques that worked to produce mobility for him might not work without modification for someone more muscular, as you describe yourself to be.

 

[emptym]

Originally Posted by T4phage

good you reminded me
i will call them tomorrow

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

Nothing else. Just a few shirts from Peter Lee as there wasn't much time for anything else. Peter was doing an alteration for me so I didn't want to bog him down with anything in addition.
Thanks guys.

 

[George]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

You might only be gratified by a Dege Phitwell. http://www.thelondonlounge.net/forum...hp?f=36&t=6309 - B
Yes, but does the Phitwell, fit well...?

 

[George]

Originally Posted by Svenn

That is awesome! Though I thought a gusset/pleat like that would be more helpful for mobility if it was located in the armpit rather than in the upper back, no? Do you think Steed would be able to make something like Dege did there? That's what I thought too, so you can imagine my irritation when I feel like my jacket's going to tear or rip every time I lift up my arm. I'd gladly do those measurements you suggested, but I'm not sure how to do them... my chest appears to be 102 cm in circumference, and my upper body circumference with my arms down (around the deltoids) is 122cm. If by 'upper arm' you mean bicep, it's 30cm. My shoulder width is 47 cm, measured from the last point on my shoulder where I could still feel bone (acromion to acromion). But Chan said my latissimus dorsi were the problem, at least their bulkiness made it hard for them to fit the shirt.
Being 'counterintuitive', have you not considered that a larger armhole, not a smaller armhole may be beneficial for someone of your build?

 

[TRINI]

Originally Posted by Svenn

That is awesome! Though I thought a gusset/pleat like that would be more helpful for mobility if it was located in the armpit rather than in the upper back, no? Do you think Steed would be able to make something like Dege did there?

That pleat would look terrible in a business suit IMO...much more suited to casual tweeds, shooting jackets, etc.

 

[ohm]

Originally Posted by RSS

I used to love to dance the Tango ... but at my advanced age ... the last time I tried ... it resulted in whiplash.

Sounds like quite a woman.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Those tweeds look nice. The shoulder on the second Chan is not bad.


- B

What about the shoulder on the first Chan don't you like?

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by Svenn

That is awesome! Though I thought a gusset/pleat like that would be more helpful for mobility if it was located in the armpit rather than in the upper back, no? Do you think Steed would be able to make something like Dege did there?

I think of Edwin's skills very highly, but if you resolve to get a Phitwell, it would make the most sense to go with Dege. It's not only the cutting, but also having tailors trained in putting something like this together.

Originally Posted by TRINI

That pleat would look terrible in a business suit IMO...much more suited to casual tweeds, shooting jackets, etc.

Exactly so. Moreover, other than just wanting to have one, I would think that its merits are important for its intended purpose.

Svenn, no matter what Chan told you, I'm skeptical that there is something about your build that would not allow a good tailor to make a normal jacket for you. This is one of those situations where a photograph would be useful if you are soliciting suggestions.


- B

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by ohm

What about the shoulder on the first Chan don't you like?

I have no problems with the first shoulder. The second one, though, has a bit of alla mappina that seems more fitting for a shirt sleeve shoulder done in imitation of one of the types of Neapolitan jackets.


- B

 

[Slewfoot]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I have no problems with the first shoulder. The second one, though, has a bit of alla mappina that seems more fitting for a shirt sleeve shoulder done in imitation of one of the types of Neapolitan jackets.


- B

Agreed. It's nice to have variety though!

 

[JLibourel]

Originally Posted by Svenn

That's what I thought too, so you can imagine my irritation when I feel like my jacket's going to tear or rip every time I lift up my arm. I'd gladly do those measurements you suggested, but I'm not sure how to do them... my chest appears to be 102 cm in circumference, and my upper body circumference with my arms down (around the deltoids) is 122cm. If by 'upper arm' you mean bicep, it's 30cm. My shoulder width is 47 cm, measured from the last point on my shoulder where I could still feel bone (acromion to acromion). But Chan said my latissimus dorsi were the problem, at least their bulkiness made it hard for them to fit the shirt.

Frankly, from your measurements you don't sound oddly proportioned to me. What's the story on your lats? Usually they're hard to develop without pulleys or similar specialized equipment. Have you done a lot of rowing or rock climbing or something like that that would cause them to be disproportionate?

 

[Slewfoot]

Svenn - Interesting to hear your comments regarding your items. I too have been wrestling with this issue a bit. Out of any bespoke tailors I've used, my Chan jackets are the most comfortable because of the freedom of movement. The combination of a high and wide armholes and a large sleevehead work well. If you choose to get something else made with Chan I would consider these things to discuss with Patrick:

1) Select a fabric that has some give and stretch. A tightly woven worsted or Fresco may not be the best bet, but a spongy flannel or Harrisons Moonbeam might be.

2) Widen the shoulders around 1/4 inch on each side. Discuss how much padding should go into them so you don't look overly bulky.

3) Have the chest, front of the sleevehead and front of the armhole sit a bit further away from your body so when you do things like driving and leaning forward at your desk the fabric won't constrict you as much.