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Hong Kong Tailor Report - Peter Lee, Chan, Jantzen, Zee's and Tassels

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Slewfoot, Nov 25, 2009.

  1. Douglas

    Douglas Senior member

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    Thanks for the great report. I have had a suit made at Jantzen (cord, just for fun, cheap) and I was not particularly pleased with the results, and thought that Chan was pretty much the way I had to go. Thanks for the steer on Peter Lee, whom I shall have to try on my next visit - January!

    Hope the HK iTHUGs will be amenable to a beer.
     
  2. Ataturk

    Ataturk Senior member

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    Looks like you had a hell of a trip.
     
  3. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    Looks like you had a hell of a trip.
    +1
     
  4. TC11201

    TC11201 Senior member

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    David - great report. Having seen that Moonbeam jacket in person, it's a terrific piece - you definitely got the most out of the HK trip.
     
  5. gazman70k

    gazman70k Senior member

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    - PL has a lot of cloth on hand & like all tailors has access to the branded stuff, just ask.. But please do not ask for the secret iTHUG stash..

    I have asked that Peter hide all the secret iTHUG stash which he left lying around at the front of his shop.

    The first rule about iThug is that you don't talk about iThug. Sheesh! No Miss Japan and Miss Trinidad sex tape for you!
     
  6. gazman70k

    gazman70k Senior member

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    A brilliant report David. Looking forward to you visiting again. The cord turned out spectacularly as did the H&S fresco. Congratulations.

    Love the Moonbeam too. A great fabric.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Dwn2Race

    Dwn2Race Well-Known Member

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    Awesome suits! How long does it take to get suits made? Im planning on a trip next year to the Philippines, and was planning a week trip over to HK.


    John
     
  8. dragon8

    dragon8 Senior member

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    Awesome suits! How long does it take to get suits made? Im planning on a trip next year to the Philippines, and was planning a week trip over to HK.


    John


    a week in HK should be enough to get you some suits
     
  9. teddieriley

    teddieriley Senior member

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    Wait, you smell that?
    Nice. I'm a little curious as to what is going on in the waist area of your jackets. With some jackets they seem to ripple in the area where it is taken in, and some, giving you the illusion of larger hips. I think some of the latter is from the camera angle, but not sure about the waist of the jackets.
     
  10. tps16

    tps16 Senior member

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    Nice. I'm a little curious as to what is going on in the waist area of your jackets. With some jackets they seem to ripple in the area where it is taken in, and some, giving you the illusion of larger hips. I think some of the latter is from the camera angle, but not sure about the waist of the jackets.

    I am not a tailor, but I believe that is being caused by his dropped shoulder. The diagonal folding of the cloth in the back is also a sign that this is a possible cause.
     
  11. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Thanks gang! It was quite a trip. Funny that there have been so many positive comments on the corduroy suit when that's far and away my least favorite in terms of fit. Hopefully it will be rectified soon.

    For those inquiring, I definitely recommend giving Peter Lee a try next time you're in HK. I was there for 10 days and he made all these garments plus a few shirts. It definitely came down to the wire as the final alterations were made the night before I left.

    Teddie - I agree the waist rippling must have something to with my dropped shoulder. I'm not used to standing in robotic pose mode like this and I haven't noticed anything like that before when I wear them. Most of these items I wear unbuttoned the majority of the time. I will keep an eye on it though as I was a bit surprised when I saw the photos. In terms of the back, I asked for there to be some drape and room for me to move freely so it makes sense that there are some lines.
     
  12. acidboy

    acidboy Senior member

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    thanks for the thread and pics.... makes me miss HK all the more.
     
  13. jcc123

    jcc123 Senior member

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    Couple of questions. Does PL make paper patterns for everything you had made including the shirts? Just to make re-ordering easier? Also, I'd be interested in knowing how much variability you get from each subsequent re-order from the patterns?

    Perhaps Phat Guido can answer that since he's the only one that seem to have ordered by mail from them?
     
  14. tps16

    tps16 Senior member

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    Teddie - I agree the waist rippling must have something to with my dropped shoulder. I'm not used to standing in robotic pose mode like this and I haven't noticed anything like that before when I wear them. Most of these items I wear unbuttoned the majority of the time. I will keep an eye on it though as I was a bit surprised when I saw the photos. In terms of the back, I asked for there to be some drape and room for me to move freely so it makes sense that there are some lines.


    First, let me say that everything is quite nice.

    Vertical lines are normal in the back, especially if you put in some extra fullness, but the diagonal lines are indicative of a dropped shoulder that was not taken into account. You may very well stand differently when you are not in pose mode though. Maybe you could try taking some more casual pictures.
    I am surprised Chan did not catch the dropped shoulder. I had them make a jacket for me before and they did a really good job picking up on that and compensating.
     
  15. markbao

    markbao Well-Known Member

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    This is an excellent post! Thank you [​IMG]
    That case is fantastic.
     
  16. GuidoWongolini

    GuidoWongolini Senior member

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    Couple of questions. Does PL make paper patterns for everything you had made including the shirts? Just to make re-ordering easier? Also, I'd be interested in knowing how much variability you get from each subsequent re-order from the patterns? Perhaps Phat Guido can answer that since he's the only one that seem to have ordered by mail from them?
    - no.. He has a few samples of mine to copy. Details of my recent PL.. Remember, this is 1/3 the $$$ of a Chan using the same cloth (VBC S130).. 5 day turn around.. [​IMG][​IMG] [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  17. kolecho

    kolecho Senior member

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    First, let me say that everything is quite nice.

    Vertical lines are normal in the back, especially if you put in some extra fullness, but the diagonal lines are indicative of a dropped shoulder that was not taken into account. You may very well stand differently when you are not in pose mode though. Maybe you could try taking some more casual pictures.
    I am surprised Chan did not catch the dropped shoulder. I had them make a jacket for me before and they did a really good job picking up on that and compensating.


    This is a sure case of the blind leading the blind.
     
  18. benchan

    benchan Senior member

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    PG how much is the cost of that suit made with VBC 130(Revenge?).........I had one from J. years ago, and he charged me about 450 USD......I didn't even realize there were so much hidden gems in that Far East Mansion.......too bad I am pass the stage of wearing bespoke stuff, now just get OTR stuff since there are many slim cuts that suits me fine and is much cheaper after discount. Seeing photos from you two may make me change my mind!
     
  19. tps16

    tps16 Senior member

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    This is a sure case of the blind leading the blind.

    Is there something else you noticed? As I said before, I am not a tailor, but this is what I think may be causing the ripples in the waist.
     
  20. ApplesHK

    ApplesHK Senior member

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    - no.. He has a few samples of mine to copy. Details of my recent PL.. Remember, this is 1/3 the $$$ of a Chan using the same cloth (VBC S130).. 5 day turn around.. [​IMG][​IMG] [​IMG][​IMG]
    I really like that fabric PG. I assume this is an odd jacket (because of the buttons), rather than a suit. On the back of reading this article and liking the pics posted I found myself visiting Peter Li at Baron's today. Hadn't been shopping in TST for years and years so it was a lot of fun tracking down the tailors and also the Uniqlo store. I found the fabrics on offer at Baron's a bit disappointing really. I told Peter I was interested in a light weight blazer fabric suitable for all year wear in HK. First up he brought out a Cerutti 1881 book of wool/cashmere which had some nice checks. He also brought out a roll of Zegna which was lovely. That was it though. When I asked about VBC he was surprised and brought out a book of really dull fabrics. I mean.....really dull. Prices were $774(US) for a blazer in both the Cerutti and Zegna and $450(US) for the VBC. Peter then offered me a special price because I was an internet reader who had found my way to him.......as he fiddled for 30 seconds with his calculator, he offered $761 for the Zegna. WTF? Walking back up toward Nathan Rd, I noticed Y William Yu virtually opposite Baron's. I was out of time, but even the window display looked far more interesting fabrics wise. Considering these prices, I think I'll go to Chan on the weekend and see if he has any interesting VBC. Given Peter Li's prices for a VBC blazer I don't understand how Phat Gido says a VBC is a third of Chan's price. Can anyone quote Chan for a reasonable blazer?
     

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