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Hong Kong Tailor- Empire Int'l Tailors- Help with the fit of my suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by robetrw006, May 12, 2013.

  1. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    You don't have a huge seat so adding double vents will make the suit look more elegant and it will increase flexibility. The look you are trying to imitate is not for you as of this time. You can peruse the blog of a forum member that is relatively big and impeccably dressed for inspirations: www.ethandesu.com

    Good luck with your next commission and fyi, this attempt is not bad at all. Decent result.
     
  2. Dib

    Dib Senior member

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    Oh, i forgot to add, you can't lower the button stance on a completed suit - the button holes have already been cut
     
  3. robetrw006

    robetrw006 Member

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    Is this the fella who runs the blog? I recognize him from an Armoury video on shoes! (I hope it is ok to repost his photo!)

    In the photo below, he manages to have a very streamlined jacket, complete with what looks to be quite a lot of waist suppression, and you mention he is "relatively big." The smoothness of his silhouette(particularly in his chest-stomach-hip region) is exactly what I am going for, and exactly what I feel I don't have. I feel like someone placed a suit with no shape on me, put an invisible belt around my waist(see the green box in the photo in post #5), and pulled it tight. There is no flow.




    [​IMG]
     
  4. Trompe le Monde

    Trompe le Monde Senior member

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    It is not all, or even mostly, on the tailor. The client has to be able to convey what he wants. And even before that, to *know* what he wants. Which is clearly (and frequently) not the case.

    "Make me slim" is not a reasonable request. And surely not commensurate with expectations of perfection.

    Further suppress the waist where it's already tight? Widening a lapel and lowering the buttoning point on a finished coast? (and just sew close the existing buttonhole?) In this case, one should sympathize with the tailor.

    Just another victim of being dressed by the internet...
     
  5. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    You can also add higher armholes to your next spec and maybe slightly higher gorge if these can be executed correctly. It will add some shape
     
  6. Dib

    Dib Senior member

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    Trompe - I agree with what you say, to an extent.

    A tailor shoud be able to tell if the trousers are gathering at the back even if the client points it out or not. Further, a lot of the cheaper HK tailors crank out awful looking suits even for customers who know what they are talking about (I've seen many examples in HK).

    I do agree with your general sentiment though: not knowing much about bespoke tailoring + unrealistic expectations + using cheapest tailors = recipe for disaster
     
    1 person likes this.
  7. bamboo

    bamboo Senior member

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    I am no expert, but it appears to me lapel width is a tad narrower compared to your shoulder width. It probably is a standard for "slim cut" suit, but may be exaggerating the volume of lower part of your torso. Actually, shoulders could have been slightly broader to achieve some kind of trimmed look and give a space for waist supression?
     
  8. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    probably an object lesson about cheap tailors:

    The coat
    is far too short - irretrievably
    The centre vent makes it look like a sack, side vents are far preferable but it cannot now be changed
    It requires some reduction at the waist - doable.
    Don't worry about the lapels - cannot really be changed.

    The trousers
    thighs to slim


    All this said many people in the street will not even notice and if they do will not be able to put a finger upon what is adrift. Wear it is in reasonable peace but go somewhere better next time.
     
  9. robetrw006

    robetrw006 Member

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    Ok, no one can seem to agree. The idea that there is too much fabric in the thighs(as can be seen in the shot of my back) was consensus until now. What makes you say "too tight?" It seems the complete opposite of what everyone else thinks.

    You also mention the coat is irretrievably short. The look I'm going for is not a 80s [laughably oversized] power suit. I'm looking for something conservative with a bit of a slim cut to it. Its why I didn't ask for a full blown slim suit. Perhaps our definitions of "slim" suits differ(you can see what I consider to be "slim" in the photo below). What I feel I have is a relatively conservative suit. Granted, I won't deny that the lapels should be slightly wider and the jacket length about an inch longer(but not "irretrievably" short).


    [​IMG]
     
  10. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    if this is what you were going for then you got it. Advise being given to you is how to get a suit that fits properly.
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2013
  11. Dib

    Dib Senior member

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    What GBR means is that once the length of the jacket has been finished/hemmed, it cannot be lengthened - hence irretrievable.
     
  12. robetrw006

    robetrw006 Member

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    This is not what I was going for. I was going for something that is relatively standard with a slightly slim cut. I'm ignorant on many of the aspects of tailoring, but I'm not stupid; I realize only the gym will make me look like the above photo.

    While I appreciate the recommendations on my next suit, my biggest concern now is to try and tailor this one as best as I can to give myself a look I'm more satisfying with. I only have about 3 weeks left in HK(plenty of time for a HK tailor), and I need to make any alterations to the suit within that period of time, so I can't discuss the matter too much more before needing to go back to the tailor.


    So far I've got:

    1) Take in the trousers in the thigh area. (does everyone(except GBR) agree on this?)

    2) Ask to lengthen the jacket up to an inch(if possible)

    3) Relax the waist? (this one still seems to be debated between people)
     
  13. robetrw006

    robetrw006 Member

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    Really? I was under the impression(from an earlier post) that it could be lengthened to a certain extent. I always knew you couldn't ask them to put on inches, but I though perhaps as much as an inch could be added
     
  14. Dib

    Dib Senior member

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    I dont think it can be lengthened actually, i've discussed this with tailors before and they've always advised it's not really possible at this stage.

    Regarding your questions above, I would advise against letting the waist out. One of your main concerns seems to be that the suit isn't slim enough and doesnt have any shape around the waist - letting the waist out is only going to exacerbate this problem obviously.
     
  15. E TF

    E TF Senior member

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    GBR might be right about the trousers - it's not necessarily that there's too much cloth, it's just that they're not hanging correctly. In the profile shot they seem to be hugging the backs of your legs - they shouldn't do that, they should hang in a much straighter line from your ass to your to heel (see in your photo how they hang in a straight line down the front , without hugging the fronts of your legs - they should do the same at the back). I don't know how you'd go about fixing that in your example, but it may need more cloth not less, so I wouldn't just go in asking for cloth to be taken out there.

    [​IMG]
     
  16. robetrw006

    robetrw006 Member

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    No, its not that I feel there is no shape, its that I feel the shape isn't right. The first photo below is what I believe is the best looking silhouette. It also graphically shows the "flow" of the outline I mentioned a few times before. The second photo is my suit jacket with what I see the silhouette being. This photo representation of my jacket silhouette is the thing I've been trying to address this whole time. Perhaps I should have just gotten into MS paint at the beginning and fixed the following photos...


    [​IMG]



    [​IMG]
     
  17. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Confine yourself to having the coat taken in at the waist, Describe your concerns about the trousers to the tailor and see if he knows what to do. However buying yourself some more appropriate shoes would help enormously with the trousers.

    Then go to a better tailor in future.
     
  18. robetrw006

    robetrw006 Member

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    I'm not tailor, but perhaps the waistline(in the rear) of my trousers is too low/too much fabric makes the pants droop in the back. Perhaps this can be fixed by pulling my pants higher in the back as seen in figure A and figure B(not a long term solution). Again, I'm not a tailor, but perhaps taking fabric from figure C area would help lift the pants?


    [​IMG]
     
  19. robetrw006

    robetrw006 Member

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    I have proper dress shoes at home(in the states), but not here in HK.
     
  20. Dib

    Dib Senior member

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    Yes, I understood quite clearly what you were saying - you want the silhouette to be more waisted/more waist suppression (and that is what I meant by more "shape" - it's a pretty common way of saying the same thing). Anyway, that obviously won't be achieved by letting more fabric out, will it? That effect is typically achieved by taking fabric away from the waist and, as i've said above, I'm not sure if there is sufficient allowance left in your suit to do this. Do you have anyone you know personally in HK who knows about suits/tailoring etc? There's not a huge amount that can be done to the suit at this stage, but given how little you seem to know and understand about tailoring I honestly think your best bet is to take someone along with you who knows a little and who can help you talk to the tailors to see what they can do at this stage. Canvassing opinions on this thread really just seems to be confusing you further and when all is said and done, i'm not convinced it is going to equip you with the tools you need to go back to the tailors and appear as though you know what you're talking about.
     

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