Hollande's and Akihito's suits: a comparison

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by CrimsonSox, Jul 27, 2013.

  1. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

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    I like trim pants, but it's a good idea to make sure they're not too tight. If the upper body is much larger, tighter pants can be disproportionate. Contrast Francois Hollande with Emperor Akihito:

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    Last edited: Jul 30, 2013


  2. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

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    The excellent tumblr Ivory Tower Style, from Unbelragazzo, has analyzed the photo above to explain why Akihito's fuller trousers are more elegant than Hollande's tight pants. It's a great article: http://ivorytowerstyle.tumblr.com/

    What's surprising is that the fuller trousers actually look more slimming. They create a smooth, continuous line down the whole silhouette, while Hollande's figure is broken into two. The contrast is equally striking from the front. Hollande's pants are excessively tight, creasing everywhere, even in the calves and knees. While part of the difference is from Hollande's larger figure, note that his pants are tighter than Akihito's:

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    Here's a side shot showing the slimming effect of Akihito's fuller trousers, which are proportionate to his suit jacket. The whole suit unified in one line from shoulder to shoe.

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    Akihito had great style, even when he was a young man. Note the streamlined jetted pockets, which Prince Charles also prefers.

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    A lifetime of elegance:

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    Last edited: Jul 30, 2013


  3. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Hollande's look is EXACTLY the reason why I prefer fuller pants. It seems soooo obvious in these pictures. Akihito looks great.
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2013


  4. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Agreed. Unbel's blog post is a good read.
     


  5. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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  6. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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  7. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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  8. Chrenetique

    Chrenetique Senior member

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    The clothing of our ridiculous president is akin to the French social structure: the lower part is getting thinner and thinner, while the highest part becomes noxiously obese. How can he stand erect? It looks like everything's going to collapse. And to pile up different shades of ridicule, his tie is askew half of the time, which gives a good laugh to every single person I know (even in the French lowest classes). There's even a Twitter account called "François, your tie", that states for today: 30th July 2013, I've been worn askew 357 times for 680 public apparitions. https://twitter.com/FrancoisCravate

    As always, H.I.M. Emperor Akihito is wonderfully elegant, in spite of his unusual body shape (or thanks to it?). Note that every Japanese person in the pictures above is actually wearing full trousers.
     


  9. Holdfast

    Holdfast Senior member

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    Pretty reasonable prices for full bespoke by an excellent tailor, if the price of 400k yen for a 2pc suit is up to date. Especially considering how much more expensive things frequently are in Japan.

    PS. Hollande looks terrible, but I've never seen him look well-dressed.

    PPS. I love the young Akihito's DB linen suit in one of those photos. I think I may have seen a different photo of him wearing the same suit, meeting some Oxford students of the same era who were visiting Japan. They're similarly attired, though sadly not as precisely...
     


  10. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

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    Thanks for the link. I was looking at the site, and what's interesting is that Hattori Susumu, who is 80 years old, has created a series of tailoring DVDs to pass on his knowledge to the next generation: http://www.kinn-tailor.com/dvd/index.html. He also has a blog (http://kinntailor.blog98.fc2.com/), and runs a workshop to teach master techniques in tailoring (http://www.kinn-tailor.com/new/index.html). Many of the great tailors are quite old, so it's important that their knowledge be preserved.

    I try to be careful about documentation, and I was just wondering if there might be a book or newspaper mentioning Hattori Susumu as the Emperor's tailor? I do not speak Japanese, so I only did a quick search of Lexis-Nexis, but it does not have much Japanese news. The silhouette of a sportscoat and a morning coat he wears do look like Akihito's, and Hattori's father, who was also a tailor, designed uniforms for the Imperial Household: http://www.kinn-tailor.com/company/index.html

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  11. FlyingMonkey

    FlyingMonkey Senior member

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    I originally read about this on the Cutter and Tailor forum, where the information was provided anonymously by someone who claimed to have been trained by Hattori-san. The firm themselves would never mention the Emperor or their work. Ever. I don't think you'll find much in English, but I will do a search in Japanese on my other computer and get back to you.
     


  12. nutcracker

    nutcracker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Good to finally see Hatori san getting some recognition overseas :)
    His price only includes the tailoring fee. That plus the fabric (usually ¥100K yen+), so you're looking at ¥500K.

    The current Emperor is also a good client of Henry Poole's. Though I'm not sure how long ago he made his last order there.
     


  13. SHS

    SHS Senior member

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  14. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

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    The elegant Emperor:

    [​IMG]
     


  15. CrimsonSox

    CrimsonSox Senior member

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    Looks like the memo David Isle and I sent finally reached Hollande:

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    Much better trouser width than before:

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    Last edited: Feb 11, 2014


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