Holland & Sherry Fabric Choices

[paborden]

Wondering if anyone has any experience with how the Cape Horn bunch compares to the Classic Worsted compares to the City of London stuff.

Trying to make some decisions here and I'm enough of a noob that they all seem roughly the same to me ...

 

[EzraPaul]



Wondering if anyone has any experience with how the Cape Horn bunch compares to the Classic Worsted compares to the City of London stuff. 

Trying to make some decisions here and I'm enough of a noob that they all seem roughly the same to me ...

They put out new books every year, so it depends. Classic Worsted and City of London are really heavy for suiting (13oz), so wouldn't recommend for anything but winter. Cape Horn varies depending on the book, so the bunch # would help there. The standard Cape Horn is also on the thicker side (11oz). As far as quality, they are all on par with each other.

Do you have info on the use and where you live?

 

[paborden]

I'm in NYC, so bear that in mind.

Most of the Cape Horn stuff I'm looking at is around 11oz. Also eyeing the Perennial Classics, but they seem a little light.

Bear in mind that when it gets really hot I typically won't wear a suit at all. This is more of a fashion choice, less of a required for work choice.

 

[EzraPaul]

Perennial Classics is 9oz, which honestly is what I would consider on the thick side for a 4 season suit in NYC. The 11+ oz stuff is going to be late October through early March at best. Have your salesperson/tailor show you something made up at different weights so you can see the finished product. Once it's constructed, canvassed, and lined it will have more heft than it might seem from a swatch.

Here's a rough weight range IMO, and is highly up for debate:

40° and under: 9+ oz
40° - 55°: 8.5 - 10.5 oz
55° - 70°: 7.5 - 9.5 oz
70° - 80°: 6.5 - 8.5 oz
80°+ : under 7.5 oz

For instance, Ariston's "4 Stagioni" book runs 7.75 - 8.75 oz, but of course they are in Napoli, which is hotter than NYC...

 

[12345Michael54321]



For instance, Ariston's "4 Stagioni" book runs 7.75 - 8.75 oz, but of course they are in Napoli, which is hotter than NYC...

Naples is, on average, somewhat warmer than NYC. However, NYC "enjoys" higher summer humidity, which more than makes up for the temperature difference.

Anyway, I agree that 11+ oz. is on the heavy side. Well, by modern day standards, anyway. Weights tended to be heavier back in the early and mid-20th century - rather the opposite of what might seem reasonable, given how common air conditioning has become, but there you have it. The heavier weight stuff can look quite nice though, and resist wrinkling better than most of the lighter weight alternatives. And paborden does indicate he isn't overly concerned with how the suits will feel in hot weather, so that's also something to consider.

 

[EzraPaul]



Naples is, on average, somewhat warmer than NYC. However, NYC "enjoys" higher summer humidity, which more than makes up for the temperature difference.

Anyway, I agree that 11+ oz. is on the heavy side. Well, by modern day standards, anyway. Weights tended to be heavier back in the early and mid-20th century - rather the opposite of what might seem reasonable, given how common air conditioning has become, but there you have it. The heavier weight stuff can look quite nice though, and resist wrinkling better than most of the lighter weight alternatives. And paborden does indicate he isn't overly concerned with how the suits will feel in hot weather, so that's also something to consider.

Agreed that heavier weights drape better. FW clothing is much more forgiving for this reason. The lighter weight fabrics nowadays have more to do with technological advances than anything else, but you are correct that with the proliferation of AC you'd think we'd have gone the other direction.

 

[Colonel Mustard]

I recently commissioned a winter suit and my tailor and I decided on Holland & Sherry 13oz worsted.

This suit is for crisp autumn/winter days and as I wanted a heavier weight cloth that would drape well and resist wrinkling I am confident that we made the right decision.

It is always difficult to imagine a suit made up from a swatch and the experience of others must be called on.

I will post pictures in the bespoke thread at various stages of fittings.