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Hold Em Up--Suspender Button Advise Needed

zeero3

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This is my first double-breasted suit. A heavier weight charcoal pin stripe I purchased off ebay. It was apparently made bespoke for someone, close to my size, by a New York tailor (Sanitate). It's been to my alterations tailor with the following things done: 1) shortened sleeves from the shoulders, 2) waist brought it, 3) pants leg cuffed, 4) ~1" of jacket length taken off (I was scared), and 5) button moved to get lapel to sit against chest better.

I'm happy with the result, but now noticing an issue with the pants. There are no belt loops or tabs--nothing to keep the pants from sliding from the waist to the hips. The result is the front sagging, causing ripples down the inseam, and a disastrous looking break.

Is the answer simply to add buttons for suspenders? And if so, is the preferred method to add these buttons on the inside or outside of the waistband? Also, if anyone wants to, nitpick the fit of the jacket. Any honest criticism appreciated.....

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ter1413

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add the brace buttons on the inside. jacket sleeves look a little short. everthing else...not bad..
 

Agatha Crusty

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If you choose braces the actual placement of buttons is your preference, because there are NO solid rules on whether they should be inside or outside. In days past they were on the outside and were covered with a waistcoat/vest, then the buttons moved to inside . I've even seen people move them about on front and back to have the front outside and the back inside (the latter to stop them digging into a car seat).

On trousers that come with brace buttons, nowadays they are usually inside. And the front buttons are either side of the trouser crease.
 

HEWSINATOR

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On a similar note, any good site to get suspenders/braces online for a decent price. I would not mind trying a pair but would not know where to begin to look in town.
 

zeero3

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Originally Posted by ter1413
add the brace buttons on the inside. jacket sleeves look a little short. everthing else...not bad..
Noted. Advice taken from one with experience.
Originally Posted by Agatha Crusty
If you choose braces the actual placement of buttons is your preference, because there are NO solid rules on whether they should be inside or outside. In days past they were on the outside and were covered with a waistcoat/vest, then the buttons moved to inside . I've even seen people move them about on front and back to have the front outside and the back inside (the latter to stop them digging into a car seat). On trousers that come with brace buttons, nowadays they are usually inside. And the front buttons are either side of the trouser crease.
Unless someone can convince me otherwise, I think I will put the buttons inside. By any chance, do you know how much an experienced alterations tailor usually charges to add brace buttons? Seems like the simplest of tasks.
Originally Posted by HEWSINATOR
On a similar note, any good site to get suspenders/braces online for a decent price. I would not mind trying a pair but would not know where to begin to look in town.
This was going to be my next question. Will from A Suitable Wardrobe sells, what seems to me, a nice set of braces for $95. Are there any suggestions for braces? I'll be researching braces in the mean time......
 

LanceW

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Albert Thurston for braces. Place the buttons 2" on each side of the pleats. Expect the buttons to take up 0.5" in the waist.

I don't know if the jacket sleeves are too long but I would definitely bring in the shirt sleeves or select a smaller cuff that limits them from hanging down as far.
 

VelvetGreen

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With a suit like that Thurston is the only way to go.
 

zeero3

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Originally Posted by LanceW
Albert Thurston for braces. Place the buttons 2" on each side of the pleats. Expect the buttons to take up 0.5" in the waist.

I don't know if the jacket sleeves are too long but I would definitely bring in the shirt sleeves or select a smaller cuff that limits them from hanging down as far.


Originally Posted by VelvetGreen
With a suit like that Thurston is the only way to go.

It looks like I can't go wrong paying Thurston's website a visit.

Does anyone have information on the pros/cons or functionality of what the braces are made of? Is barathea preferred over boxcloth? Does a set of braces that wears warm/cool make a difference in the least bit? Is one more comfortable than the other?
 

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