HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

[9thsymph]

@9thsymph

9th, it all depends on how you choose to look at it. As you pointed out, I’ve studied proportions to the point of numbness.

See, to get a full cut (which is what I’m aiming for due to large thighs/glutes), the trousers have to travel quite a distance for the silhouette to flow. This means the rise must be high (at the navel or even inch higher). It is impossible to get this shape and drape and fullness without a very high rise.

If you study old classic drawings you’ll find this to be true. The only difference is that back then, high rise trousers where worn exclusively with a vest which somehow conceals the rise of the trousers and showing off the fall and drape of the trousers below the jacket/vest.

Now when you look at these trousers under a vest or buttoned up coat, they look very different. So it’s all about perspective. I like the new full look because it streamlines well with a full cut coat and softens an otherwise contourish physique.

Alan Bee

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(the sweater helps tremendously by mitigating the extreme rise...[I like a high rise, but only within reason...])

 

[Alan Bee]

(the sweater helps tremendously by mitigating the extreme rise...[I like a high rise, but only within reason...])

@9thsymph

9th, thats the whole point. Viewed in isolation, it is an acquired taste. But these trousers are meant to be worn with a vest (or jumper) and exclusively under a coat to conceal the rise. They are not your everyday trousers to be worn sans jacket with a shirt. It is otherwise impossible to get this cut without a very high rise especially back rise.

When developing the trouser pattern, we tried a medium rise but found out during fittings this breaks the back drape and disrupts the line/fall. To get the back drape to fall perfectly, we had to "lift" the back rise (and corresponding front rise) so that the fullness begins at the base of the seat (bum). With a lower rise, you wont get that fullness at the base of the seat and perfect fall from the glutes down to the hem.

The back rise should be cut high such that the waist is small and widens towards the hips/glutes, then falls (drops) in a vertical line (with your glutes acting as a ledge) all the way to the bottom hem.

That’s how you achieve a flawless drape and it is impossible to do this without a very high rise where the crescendo (waterfall) begins.

Here’s a prime example (tan pants not mine) which we used as a guide for developing the pattern.

Alan Bee

 

[Alan Bee]

@9thsymph

Here are some fitting photos. You can see that while the front looks great with a mid-rise, the back looks sloppy and has absolutely no drape. So we have to move the rise up and add more fullness to the hips and glutes for a fuller cut.

Alan Bee

 

[psb]

The beginning of the week starts with a peak lapel window pane suit.
Have a successful day alltogether.

 

[DonRaphael]

Today. In retrospective, the shirt and tie were to busy paired together.

 

[Betelgeuse]

Who makes these socks? They're beautiful!

Thanks! Those are from Mazarin for Mes Chaussettes Rouges.

 

[Gus_McCrae]

 

[Alan Bee]

Today. In retrospective, the shirt and tie were to busy paired together.
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Busy in a very elegant way. Beautifully executed!

Alan Bee

 

[DonRaphael]

Busy in a very elegant way. Beautifully executed!

Alan Bee

Thank you very much. Coming from a fine gentleman like you, that means alot. I really admire your fits and confidence in how you manage to wear your clothes rather than the other way around.

 

[Twins]

Some Peaky Blinders style...

 

[Poszetka]

Barca in the pocket / Wool challis tie / Donegal jacket

 

[Maximus Rex]

Today. In retrospective, the shirt and tie were to busy paired together.
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@DonRaphael great shoes! C&Js?

 

[DonRaphael]

@DonRaphael great shoes! C&Js?

Thank you, sir. Yes, indeed. Great eye for details. I had them recolored from tan to museum brown.

 

[Betelgeuse]

¡Hola! Wasn’t that cold but if it wasn’t today, I don’t know when I could wear this haha.

 

[1st Step]

Today. In retrospective, the shirt and tie were to busy paired together.
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I Love The Combo!