1. Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 11: Any Three (3) Customized Ties from Vanda Fine Clothing

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    The 11th auction of the year is for any three customized ties from Vanda Fine Clothing. Please bid often and generously here

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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.

  1. Andy57

    Andy57 Distinguished Member

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    Terminalogical exactitude is not something that I care a great deal about, not in this context, at least. I meant a striped tie in which the stripes descend "from the heart", and I think that was not difficult to discern. I dislike the American striped tie in which the stripes descend from the top right to bottom left. So, I was attempting to state that my personal preference would be if the tie had been of the English variety.

    A Harris tweed jacket is a wonderful thing. And it looks perfectly fine with the OCBD and silk tie in the picture. And at this point, we're in de gustibus non est disputandum territory.
     


  2. JapanAlex01

    JapanAlex01 Distinguished Member

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    Much too iGent. Ditch that how-could-you-not-see-how-ugly-that-is bag, get the trousers hemmed a little higher, and switch the pocket square to a none-red one.
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2015


  3. Amar ezzahi

    Amar ezzahi Affiliate Vendor

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  4. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    The city button-down shirt? It might not be the most rustic fabric, but that's not a city shirt. I like silk with tweed for the contrast in textures/finish.

    I am surprised that rtc and Elio are so fervently toeing the line of traditional correctness. Especially rtc... :)
     


  5. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Distinguished Member

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    Actually Elio wrote precisely what I was thinking: swap the jacket for a navy blazer and it's a lovely fit.

    Toeing the line of traditional correctness is the very essence of this board. It's what we do here.

    "Repp" is a widely misused term, including on this board. See this thread and this article for further clarification.

    "A rep tie is made from silk that's woven in such a way as to produce tight diagonal ribs that make for deep, brilliant colors." ...and... "The repp in repp tie refers to the particular weave of the silk which affects the texture but not the pattern. Diagonally striped ties can be repp weave or not and repp ties can be striped or not."

    So, what do you call a striped tie falling right-to-left with a non-repp weave (i.e. the type of tie worn by @clarinetplayer above)? I have no idea.
     


  6. jfrater

    jfrater Senior Member

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    Rain today - it is starting to feel like Autumn is on its way!

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    Coat: Rubinacci
    Jacket: Chester Barrie
    Shirt: Liverano
    Tie: Sam Hober
    Pocket Square: Rubinacci
    Trousers: Ralph Lauren
    Shoes: Vass
    Socks: Penrose of London
    Hat: Borsalino
     


  7. Bill Dlwgosh

    Bill Dlwgosh Senior Member

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  8. clarinetplayer

    clarinetplayer Distinguished Member

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    Quot Angeli in capite clavus saltare ?
     


  9. travisarmond

    travisarmond Member

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    [​IMG]
    Exibit jacket
    Luca Panerai scarf
    Brancaccio shirt
    Burberry watch
    Scotch & Soda pants
    Tod's driving loafers
    Dog
     


  10. EliodA

    EliodA Distinguished Member

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    You may have noted that disputing each others tastes and aesthetic preferences forms quite a lot of the activity - and the fun - of this forum [​IMG]
    Anyway, you wrote that CP's fit was a classic, when truly it is not. Which is what I tried to explain.
    BTW, why do you dislike the stripes of the American variety?

    Well, I don't shy away of breaking the rules of traditional correctness on occasion, but only when I feel that the end result is still coherent and aesthetically pleasing.
    I like to think that those rules are there for a reason and - a few purely conventional exceptions aside - that they are ultimately guidelines that help us make combinations that are aesthetically sound.
    So what I didn't like about clarinetplayer's fit is not the rule breaking per se, but the aesthetics: the cool navy and pink colours don't work with the warm tweed. The shirt fabric seems not substantial enough next to the heavy tweed.
    I'm neither historian nor psychologist so I can only speculate, but I can imagine that the formal vs. casual rules have developed in the way they have because they align with our emotional associations and aesthetic preferences: i.e. cool colours, smooth fabrics etc. are not formal because the rules tell us so, but these preferences have become rules because to most people they make a more formal (i.e. emotionally 'distant') impression than warm colours and fuzzy fabrics.
    I agree with you that the wetness of silk provides a nice contrast with the dry look of tweed. (Didn't we discuss this very subject a few pages ago in this thread?) In fact, the very first book on menswear I ever read (Roetzel) featured a pic of such a combination that somehow stuck forever in my mind:

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    Cox, I think I know what you're getting at, but I don't think "toeing the line of traditional correctness is the very essence of this board". For me, the essence is getting the opportunity to learn about these traditions and understanding why they have become so, so that I can make better informed decisions on where to follow them and where to ignore them. Which, I hope, will lead to me wearing better combinations because they are based on a better understanding of the underlying 'rules' instead of just randomly thrown together. At least, that's what I hope I've learned since joining SF. YMMV of course.

    Indeed, 'repp' is widely misused and only pertains to the type of weave. But I thought the word itself is purely American, isn't it? In other words, a striped tie with that type of weave would be called a regimental tie in England. As would a striped tie without a 'repp' weave. As for the correct American term for a non-repp weave striped tie, I have no idea either...

    Edit:

    [​IMG] Yes, this seems mostly just a debating exercise, but I figured since we're here with like minded people, we enjoy debates like this? If not, my apologies...
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2015


  11. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Cox, I think you'll find that clarinetplayer's tie does have a repp weave. My endorsement of it takes it as given. Should it turn out to be a satin, I would be less enthusiastic about it.

    Elio, I see the tweed there as gray, not particularly warm, so the blue and pink don't clash for me. If you don't see it that way, I certainly understand your objection.

    I had to get Google to translate CP's Latin, but I chuckled.
     


  12. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Distinguished Member

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    i just didn't like the tie and PS with that jacket. I honestly didn't care much about the shirt till someone brought it up, but that kind of schlubby tweed and the slickness and smoothness of everything else just didn't jive for me. I don't think it's much to be worried about as CP dresses pretty damn well.

    Just because I choose not to dress like many people on this thread on a daily basis, doesn't mean I don't appreciate how they dress. It was a rare miss for him and I'm not sure why we're still talking about it! The way this thread drifts towards semantics at times just bores and confuses me. Not my cuppa tea!
     


  13. An Acute Style

    An Acute Style Distinguished Member

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    Happy Valentine's Day. Love 'em if you got 'em. I taught in the Bronx and had dinner at the Polo Bar (Mr. Lauren's new restaurant). Lovely decor and delicious food. 3rd go at the FC. Snow necessitated the boots. Yes, those are hearts on my square.

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  14. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Braddocks suit is one of the best things to ever happen to menswear.
     


  15. Roycru

    Roycru Distinguished Member

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    There seems to be some discussion about tweed jackets, striped silk ties, silk pocket squares, and oxford cloth button down shirts and if these things are formal or informal or city or country or whatever.

    The grey vest that I wore with all of these other items on Tuesday is formal, as I usually wear it with a black jacket and grey and black striped trousers (and yes, have grey spats, too).

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