Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.
No groupthink, I just dont that that square in that fit, babi.
Next on, SF after dark.
Boy, you said it.
These are beautiful! What kind are they?
(Thrifted for $10; fit like a glove. )
Damn, good find. @Orgetorix used to find deals like that but I never have.
You're not looking in the right places.
Very nice as always. I do have one minor nitpick: the jacket looks somehow a little bit too fitted and also short. I've noticed this with a few of your jackets. You appear to have a "built" physique and having such a well-fitted jacket accentuates this. Actually in the above photo you look uncomfortable - as if your body language is saying "I'm dying to take this damn thing off".
I suspect you may benefit from a slightly looser-fitting and also longer cut for future acquisitions. Just my 2¢ worth.
I semi-agree with Cox, GMMcL. The suppression looks excessive (although that may be exaggerated by the position of your arms). The length, however, works well IMO. I generally prefer your suit fits because your odd-jacket combos seem to distort your proportions. I recall being surprised to learn that you're relatively tall, and I think it's because the longer jackets really visually shorten your legs. That's not the case here.
Is that a hackett sc?
Glad that so many of you liked my picture at the pre-Valentine event. Since today is the day before Valentine's Day, I thought that this might also be a seasonally appropriate place to sit.
It was nearly 90F here today (which is not seasonally appropriate) so I am wearing a Brooks Brothers (Italian era, three button, darted, twin vents, and pleated trousers) cotton mini-houndstooth suit, PPBD ecru shirt, and tie, Gold Toe socks, and Allen-Edmonds shoes........
I appreciate the feedback. Always room for improvement (though of course one hits a point where those fine tunings carry disproportionate costs). This jacket is admittedly on the narrower/more fitted end of what I have. And to be fair, most of the early comments on my fits were "too loose! baggy pants! not enough waist suppression!" My point is: This is all your fault. Really, though: To some extent it's because my proportions have changed pretty drastically in the last 6-12 months, and made harder to fit OTR. But I'm not about to have 30+ SCs and the same number of suits moved in/out by a bit here or there, since: a) I'm likely to put it back on (but suck it if you think I'm not going to enjoy the crap out of looking this good while I do); and b) 99.9% of the wider world won't notice. Especially since I cycle through things so quickly (because they sell). Above and beyond that, to me, a Vox-like fit (without going broke/bespoke) is frustratingly elusive. Take yesterday's jacket -- which fit me before the weight loss and so is extremely loose -- and you still see that tug at the button. WTF is that all about?? Then take today's jacket and compare to the spoilered navy Oxxford I have. Measured, its exactly the same -- precisely the same pit and waist suppression. But I'll admit, it's just off -- maybe in the shoulders. Even so, I can't part with it -- yet.
Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
As for length, I'll throw this out for consideration: These pants sit much higher on my inseam than many of my suit pants (or, frankly, the other pants I threw out because you guys told me I needed to go slimmer and slimmer until we got to these -- again, your fault). Whereas my suit pants the inseam sits a bit lower (though, mysteriously, nobody had a problem with those --- remember the time I showed the suit pants which someone said were "perfect" laid on top of and bigger than a pair of separate pants that someone said were "clown like"?). So even though those suit jackets are the same length as many of my separates, optically, the separates look longer. But of course, I'm not going to tailor all my jackets to just ONE pair of pants. I mean, sorry, but no. Net: While I appreciate the feedback, short of going full bespoke (which won't happen until I win the lottery), we will simply have to suffer through seeing fits that are off by one minutia or another.
^ Yes well it is a frustrating business, isn't it, this "dialling in the fit" thing. I struggle with it too.
BTW the spoilered outfit above is very nice. Not sure if that jacket is longer, but it looks longer and I like the balance. The tiny bit of pulling at the button is something I'm sure you could see on Vox too if he weren't such a perfectionist about the images he used to post.
Pink and blue and tweed.
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