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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.

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  1. Nelton

    Nelton Senior member

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    Lovely fit as always Victor, but the coat sleeves are slightly too short, it betrays the practical purpose of a coat to have the sleeves shorter than your shirt and/or jacket. The purpose of a coat is to protect you from the elements and if the sleeves are too short then it cannot do this. Cheers, Nick
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. upr_crust

    upr_crust Senior member

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    Another (and perhaps the last) day of wintry weather in NYC this spring. (Tomorrow promises to be wet, but warmer, at least.) One last hurrah for the flannel in the closet, and for today's topcoat.

    Suit - Paul Stuart/Phineas Cole
    Shirt - Tyrwhitt
    Tie - JAB
    Braces - New & Lingwood
    PS - Robert Talbott
    Cufflinks - Benson & Clegg, London
    Shoes - C & J
    Overcoat & scarf - BB
    Hat - Selentino, via JJ Hat Center, NYC

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    22 people like this.
  3. Sander

    Sander Senior member

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    37 people like this.
  4. DonCologne

    DonCologne Senior member

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    18 people like this.
  5. Ianiceman

    Ianiceman Senior member

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    Not only that but he grew a beard and tash in one day. Amazing!
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. NickPollica

    NickPollica Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Lid by Agyesh
    Brown boiled wool marremana jacket (coming, in some form or another, to NMWA next fall) - Eidos
    Tan covert cloth DB suit - Eidos
    White/blue striped Japanese typewriter cloth spread collar shirt - Eidos
    Navy/royal dotted cashmere knit tie - Eidos
    Suede chukks (I don't polish these either.) - Christian Kimber x Eidos
     
    31 people like this.
  7. NickPollica

    NickPollica Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    This is good.


    The sentiment in the Boyer quote is the first thing I thought of when I saw rules of dress being compared to grammar. To be a competent writer you must be know and understand the rules but nearly all truly exceptional writers develop their own style and consciously deviate from them.
     
  8. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    @NickPollica fantastic db suit! But what made you decide to put the breast pocket so high? It's almost a shoulder pocket now.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    @NickPollica

    Suit looks great. Is that the Ciro model?
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015
  10. NickPollica

    NickPollica Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Yessah. Same as the infamous dinner jacket you love.



    If you're referring to the close up photo I think its a bit of an optical illusion due to the angle and width of the lapel. Its no different from all our jackets.
     
    2 people like this.
  11. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Just as I suspected. I think the lapels come out way nicer on that DB model than the Tipo DB model (not that those are bad, just more like what other people are making). Silhouette looks great too. I may have to MTO that dinner jacket you sampled if the fabric is available.

    P.S. the DJ I MTO'ed last season has ended up getting a pretty good amount of wear. Surprising how often you can use those things if you open your mind to it.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015
    1 person likes this.
  12. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Care to elaborate on how you wear it? What kind of trousers/shirt? Bow tie only, or regular ties as well?

    I've been thinking about a nighttime going out jacket for a while now, perhaps including some elements from a dinner jacket.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015
  13. GMMcL

    GMMcL Senior member

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    I'm still not sure I'm qualified to wade in when these sartorial debates blessedly efflouresce here on WAYWRN -- a delightful, but increasingly rare event (more's the pity).

    I will say that after several years of lurking, even I have absorbed the following by osmosis:
    1. Coherence is critical. Stitchy said it already so I won't bore through repetition. I'll add only this: Studying acting, we called this "commitment" -- go all in or don't go at all. Don't confuse this with overacting. Because that's worse. Think of it this way: insincerity is easily detected whether it's too little or too much. Also, to be clear, I mean coherence in all possible senses: genre, formality (city vs. country, etc), texture, color, etc. -- though I buy less into color theory less than some (which maybe is (just one reason) why I progress more slowly -- or not at all -- than others).

    2. Proportions are important. I mean this in edit 23 senses.
    a. In terms of what flatters the body. If it doesn't fit, it will look like s**t. No matter what. Fit is most important above all, arguably even above coherence. However, this is what is most difficult (and most expensive) to capture. This requires either gifted tailoring or superior genetics (I hate you people).
    b. In terms of the range of currently acceptable aesthetic. The midpoint here will almost always be acceptable, and the only question will be whether the current "eye" will be above or below. A good example is the current "eye" accepting trouser hemlines set just above the shoe line. That would have looked absolutely laughably ridiculous even just 8-10 years ago. I mean, really, really stupid. Really. And it will again. Trust me.
    c. Mastering deploying multiple patters requires also mastering proportions: You must vary the pattern scales from large to small to avoid conflict. Seems pretty obvious once pointed out, but it's not always intuitive for the beginner.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015
    3 people like this.
  14. justinkapur

    justinkapur Senior member

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    Eidos
    Canali
    Rubinacci on maiden voyage
    Bigi
    Incotex
    Pantherella
    GG
     
    14 people like this.
  15. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    shitty pics but:

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/469255/...h-28th-50-shades-of-black-tie/15#post_7781459

    I don't think I would wear a long tie with it. Bow tie or open collar
     
  16. SeaJen

    SeaJen Senior member

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    I, too, have greatly enjoyed this debate. I certainly believe there are rules to CM, but I think some of the dispute has been how one interprets "rule". Some see them as regulations (inviolate) while others see them as guidelines and heuristics, and therefore evolutionary and dynamic. Some see them as analytically derived, while others see them as empirically discovered, . Still others see them as dictum while others see them as social/cultural norms that emerge organically within the social group.

    The closest analogy I can think of is the work of the architect Chris Alexander. He wrote 3 books in the 70s on recurring "patterns" in successful (attractive, harmonious, enjoyable to live within) buildings and built environments (One being A Timeless Way of Building - especially for Tira). These patterns were distilled from his study of building over centuries and formed a pattern language through which people could communicate complex ideas in terse terms. An example is 4 story limit - limit the height of buildings in a residential community to 4 stories. His ideas are not widely adopted in architecture, but they were picked up with gusto in the computer science community as they were struggling with the design and architecture of massively complex systems and sought heuristics to help guide the process.

    The upshot of all this is that I see the rules of dressings as heuristics collectively learned through experience over time which then emerge as norms within a given group. As in many complex systems, some of these rules can be in tension in a given situation, and priorities come into effect and thus some rules get broken, but it is only the expert who knows when it is the right time to break a given rule. He understands the consequences of the break, because he knows (if only subconsciously) the rules that he is breaking. Hence, it is the realm of the expert to break rules. Novices need first to learn and apply them.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015
    7 people like this.
  17. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

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    What's the point of having a breast pocket with a PS if the lapels are so wide that it is:
    a) barely visible
    b) stuffing up the lapels
     
  18. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015
  19. ShawnBC

    ShawnBC Senior member

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    Just wanted to take 2 seconds of my time to point out that @justinkapur has put out some excellent fits in the lasts pages or so! I don't know what's your shoes/socks budget but you left me green with envy!

    Nice fits by @upr_crust , @Sander , @NickPollica and @VictorSFreturn also!

    Thank you guys for the time you take to pose, edit and upload pictures everyday or almost!
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. VictorSFreturn

    VictorSFreturn Senior member

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    RF
    Thank U! You're right about the required length coat. But if you look closely - it can be seen - strong wrinkles cloth coat in the elbow. So tailor-made for shooting, the sleeves a little pull on up to shoulder, to show the game textures and shades coat-shirt-cardigan accessories. In the basic position when lowered or arms bent at the elbow cuff coat, self-other, covers everything that is put under him.
     
    1 person likes this.

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