Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.
Looking good, Cleav. Have fun tonight.
Got a little too much attention for the tie yesterday so it's back to tie-less.
Spoiler: Shoes: Socks!
@Cleav, I am pleased that I can dedicate my 1000th SF post to your Flower's birthday. Congratulations!
congrats to you too
I'll be looking at this combo on my driver license for the next few years
But how will they know it's you?
Cooler. But according to SF, shantung is for Spring/Summer.
I will use it the next two seasons too but don't tell anyone.
@Coxsackie I need some Stowa in my life! Great waych mate!
Catching up after a long absence--
1. RTC and Noodles, you have taken your game to an all new level. Congrats on really doing it right! Noodles, your shirt and ties of late deserve special mention.
2. Wow-- amazing collar on this shirt, looks perfect! I missed the make, if already identified? Stellar shirt.
@The_Foxx , roll? For my shirt or one of theirs?
Sorry, there's a number of things going on here that make me not able to give this a thumbs up. First of all there's something odd going on in the shoulder area of the jacket that suggests a poor fit (and the sleeve length also needs some attention). Second the pattern on the jacket and the tie are just too similar in scale. I also don't like the city-style extra-cutaway collar with this kind of soft, slightly rustic ensemble. And then there are some preferences - I'd prefer cuffs on those flannels (and pleats). And I don't like the boots with this outfit.
But... overall, and despite what would seem to be a picky complaint about almost everything, I don't find myself hating it and I'd say it was still not too bad. And if that's the worst you'll ever hear from anyone (because most of your fits are pretty nice), then you're doing fine!
Spoiler: Mind ramblings; unspoiler at your own risk!
I, too, would love cuffs on these, but they came to me (secondhand, as nearly all of my stuff does) with insufficient material. But they fit me better than just about any other pair of gray flannels I've found, so that's my devil's bargain.
As for the shoulder, I agree. It was bespoken for someone who isn't me, and though it fit (IMHO) pretty well everywhere else, his shoulders must have been just a hair off. Fortunately (or unfortunately), this jacket has now sold, so this will be its one and only airing.
The formality of the other elements in the fit was actually a conscious choice. I view blackwatch (and other tartans) as on the formal end of the spectrum -- which is a perspective I think I picked up from my time in the UK. For sure, the jacket's tweed texture would make it just as at home with moleskin or cords (which, if it hadn't sold, was something I might have tried, a la Anden's fit for the green jacket challenge). Since this is the best fitting blackwatch I've found, and since it's on its way out my front door, it's my only opportunity to try to "dress it up".
The shoes are an interesting critique. The chelseas seemed a natural choice to me here. Interested to hear what you think would have worked better.
Wingtip boots in a bourbon or chocolate brown. It needs something chunkier, methinks.
Your leg opening looks a bit wide for boots that sleek.
Thanks! The shirt is Luxire MTM.
On Blackwatch - as a Brit / Scot myself, it's difficult to say it's formal in a general sense as it's used in everything from cheap tourist ties through 'hunting' attire (Blackwatch is my mother's clan 'hunting tartan') to evening wear. I treat all plaid as either serving a formal purpose when worn as part of a kilt ensemble, but otherwise, it's basically a completely different context than its original 'formal' use, and any plaid jacket is essentially just a colourful tweed and I'd treat it as such (which is how it's seen in Ivy style).
From my own experience, I'm now dubious about wearing things made bespoke for someone else. I've a couple of vintage suits acquired this way and even if the measurements would seem to work for you, the suit often turns out very different in practice. That said, almost anything can be altered if you have a tailor who can do it, and the quality of the material etc. makes it worth it. However, the most important thing is the shoulders because they are the most difficult / impossible / very expensive to alter - and this one has a shoulder problem.
Boots - I don't know. I don't think you need to go brown as RTC suggests. Chelseas could work here, as would heavy black brogues. Maybe I'm not too keen on these particular Chelseas... anyway, that's the least of the points I made, I think.
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