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loarbmhs

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Suit Ermenegildo Zegna
Shirt Hugo Boss
Tie Brioni
PS Saks
Belt Magnanni
Shoes Magnanni

View attachment 1480484View attachment 1480485View attachment 1480486View attachment 1480487
Might I make a couple suggestions to improve the overall look of your outfit:

1. The balance of the tie and collar is off. Stick to collars where the collar points go under the lapels of the jacket—these are way too short. And the thick knot makes the collar points look even more skimpy.

2. Tie your tie in such a way that the fat/front blade hits the center of your pants' waistband. As currently tied, it's about 1 1/2" — 2" too short.
 

DapperPhilly

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TheIronDandy

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So, first post on this thread (second post on the forums). Not actually today's outfit, but from a visit to the tailor a few days back. Bespoke jacket, shirt and trousers, cordovan loafers from Crocket&Jones, grenadine tie. I was adamant about not wearing brown for a long time, but now I'm doing tone on tone brown outfits more often than not.

Not quite sure about the shoe and sock game here, I honestly just grabbed the loafers cause I was late and needed something I could throw on, thinking suede loafers would have been better if I had some.

Tailoring.jpg
 

Miles R.

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So, first post on this thread (second post on the forums). Not actually today's outfit, but from a visit to the tailor a few days back. Bespoke jacket, shirt and trousers, cordovan loafers from Crocket&Jones, grenadine tie. I was adamant about not wearing brown for a long time, but now I'm doing tone on tone brown outfits more often than not.

Not quite sure about the shoe and sock game here, I honestly just grabbed the loafers cause I was late and needed something I could throw on, thinking suede loafers would have been better if I had some.

View attachment 1481053
Welcome. I think the loafers are fine; but then, I'm a college professor, so that kind of run-down-traditional look naturally appeals to me. I do think, though, that you could have done better than to choose a necktie whose predominant color is the same as that of the coat. To my eye, that overshoots "thematically unified" and lands in "canned." Better to throw some blue or red in there, and then pick up the color in your socks or your pocket square.
 

sugarbutch

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TheIronDandy

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Welcome. I think the loafers are fine; but then, I'm a college professor, so that kind of run-down-traditional look naturally appeals to me. I do think, though, that you could have done better than to choose a necktie whose predominant color is the same as that of the coat. To my eye, that overshoots "thematically unified" and lands in "canned." Better to throw some blue or red in there, and then pick up the color in your socks or your pocket square.
Very good point. The tie is a very subtle shade different from the jacket, and a different texture, which in hindsight will only be obvious if you inspect them very closely side by side. So you're absolutely right, I should have picked a different color of tie.
 

amiga505

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Today's outfit: Autumn Uniform.

Threads cited:

Items purchased new: Brooks Brothers shirt; Berle trousers from M. Dumas in Charleston; Tommy Bahama socks; DB blazer from Grady Ervin in Charleston.

Items purchased pre-owned from eBay, thrift, & consignment: Robert Talbott tie in a single windsor; Trafalgar braces; Zelli tassels.

Antique linen pocket square from a friend.

Fedora: Goorin Brothers, Charleston.

Timex Weekender watch with Smart Turnout watch band.

Glasses and sunglasses: Warby Parker

Timex Weekender watch with Smart Turnout watch band.

Glasses and sunglasses: Warby Parker.


#VintageStyleNotVintageValues #stylishacademic #professorstyle #fashionintheclassroom #BlackLivesMatter

View attachment 1480455View attachment 1480456
too much tie in my opinion, either a slimmer tie if you want it to bunch out so aggressively at the viewer, or tuck it in. tie bar is fastened too high. something strange going on in the top-bottom balance: I think either slim down your trousers, or, if you want to stick to the baggy look down, try to go for extended coat shoulder.
 

steveabdn

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So, first post on this thread (second post on the forums). Not actually today's outfit, but from a visit to the tailor a few days back. Bespoke jacket, shirt and trousers, cordovan loafers from Crocket&Jones, grenadine tie. I was adamant about not wearing brown for a long time, but now I'm doing tone on tone brown outfits more often than not.

Not quite sure about the shoe and sock game here, I honestly just grabbed the loafers cause I was late and needed something I could throw on, thinking suede loafers would have been better if I had some.

View attachment 1481053
Hi there,

I'm far from the most prolific poster on here and I don't post fits of myself so feel free to take my two pence worth with a pinch of salt. I don't necessarily agree that the tie is a bad choice in this outift, I think the pocket square is more out of place. The rest of the outfit has a very toned down feel to it and the pocket square seems to be at odds with it. I think this fit would have worked better without the square and I think if you really wanted a square a solid or subtly patterned, burgundy or dark green square with a complimentary tie would have been better.

I think the loafers are a fine choice of footwear for the outfit but they look like they could do with a bit of TLC
 
Last edited:

TheIronDandy

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Hi there,

I'm far from the most prolific poster on here and I don't post fits of myself so feel free to take my two pence worth with a pinch of salt. I don't necessarily agree that the tie is a bad choice in this outift, I think the pocket square is more out of place. The rest of the outfit has a very toned down feel to it and the pocket square seems to be at odds with it. I think this fit would have worked better without the square and I think if you really wanted a square a solid or subtly patterned, burgundy or dark green square with a complimentary tie would have been better.

I think the loafers are a fine choice of footwear for the outfit but they look like they could do with a bit of TLC
I'll consider any feedback that's not ad hominem attacks :)

I do see the point with the PS. Truth is, my PS collection is pretty limited and most of it is cheap, rather bright silk. Been looking to find some solid ones, preferably with some structure in the cloth, but haven't found that many yet. And yes, all my shoes need TLC. The problem is, I walk in them so much, any maintenance beyond the basic brush-up is soon undone by the little things such as curbs, stones and other peoples feet, so I often struggle with finding the motivation to invest proper time in their care.
 

steveabdn

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I'll consider any feedback that's not ad hominem attacks :)

I do see the point with the PS. Truth is, my PS collection is pretty limited and most of it is cheap, rather bright silk. Been looking to find some solid ones, preferably with some structure in the cloth, but haven't found that many yet. And yes, all my shoes need TLC. The problem is, I walk in them so much, any maintenance beyond the basic brush-up is soon undone by the little things such as curbs, stones and other peoples feet, so I often struggle with finding the motivation to invest proper time in their care.
I'd definitely not be looking to attack anyone for any choice!

I would recommend prioritising flexibility and quality over quantity alone when it comes to PS or any other accessory for that matter. I think a quick look at your tie collection and you'll get a general gist for which colour(s) are going to have the most flexibility. If the outfit you've posted is indicative of your normal attire then I wouldn't see much benefit to overly flamboyant PS with otherwise muted styles.

I know exactly what you mean about footwear but I'd encourage you do get into a good after wear regimen. You're going to have to set aside a couple of hours to achieve the finish you want in the first place. Once you get to that point, a quick bit of daily maintenance will keep them looking good. Finding 5 minutes a day to maintain is much easier than finding a couple of hours to work an unmaintained pair back to where you want them to be
 

An Acute Style

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Man, I don't usually critique other than tongue in cheek, but that tie just doesn't work for me.
Not that it has to work for me but it seems out of place.
I have lived in south Florida all my life so tweed isn't my thing either but I really like the color
of your jacket.
I’m from NW FL, but live in NY now. I’m not a fan of most block stripe ties so I can understand your thoughts

Are the trousers smooth-finished worsted? Because they shouldn't be smooth-finished worsted.
Yes they are smooth. I’ll do better next time.
 

LiteraryBotany

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Belatedly, yesterday's outfit: Linen and flannel.

Before the choir of "taper your trousers!" strikes up its customary tune, let me say that, after years of slim-fit everything, I have grown fond of drape. For that reason, I steam my trousers, but am hesitant to use starch. If that makes me look like less than a mannequin, then so be it. Some of us live in our clothes.

As for the full-cut chinos and the overly-long charcoal trousers that certain folks have addressed--they are on their way to the tailor, thank you. We must decide which critiques are worth our time.

Threads cited:

Items purchased new: Brooks Brothers linen suit jacket, shirt, and flannel trousers; London-York Tie; Allen Edmonds laceups; goldtoe socks.

Items purchased pre-owned from eBay, thrift, & consignment: Trafalgar braces; tie bar.

Antique linen pocket square from a friend.

Fedora: Goorin Brothers, Charleston.

Timex Weekender watch with Smart Turnout watch band.

Glasses and sunglasses: Warby Parker

Timex Weekender watch with Smart Turnout watch band.

Glasses and sunglasses: Warby Parker.


#VintageStyleNotVintageValues #stylishacademic #professorstyle #fashionintheclassroom #BlackLivesMatter

20201020_111051.jpg
 

An Acute Style

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Belatedly, yesterday's outfit: Linen and flannel.

Before the choir of "taper your trousers!" strikes up its customary tune, let me say that, after years of slim-fit everything, I have grown fond of drape. For that reason, I steam my trousers, but am hesitant to use starch. If that makes me look like less than a mannequin, then so be it. Some of us live in our clothes.

As for the full-cut chinos and the overly-long charcoal trousers that certain folks have addressed--they are on their way to the tailor, thank you. We must decide which critiques are worth our time.

Threads cited:

Items purchased new: Brooks Brothers linen suit jacket, shirt, and flannel trousers; London-York Tie; Allen Edmonds laceups; goldtoe socks.

Items purchased pre-owned from eBay, thrift, & consignment: Trafalgar braces; tie bar.

Antique linen pocket square from a friend.

Fedora: Goorin Brothers, Charleston.

Timex Weekender watch with Smart Turnout watch band.

Glasses and sunglasses: Warby Parker

Timex Weekender watch with Smart Turnout watch band.

Glasses and sunglasses: Warby Parker.


#VintageStyleNotVintageValues #stylishacademic #professorstyle #fashionintheclassroom #BlackLivesMatter

View attachment 1481328
I love a fuller cut trouser. I haven't been posting as many full body shots as I use to, but most of pants have leg opening of something between 8.5 and 9.5 inches. Tapered trousers are not flattering to every body type.

I also like chinos with tailored clothing, but I usually cuff and iron a crease in them. I usually only pair them with oxford shirts and more casual ties as well. I think you catch flak for wearing chinos with more formal shirts, large tie knots, and tie bars. I could be wrong.
 

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