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DiplomaticTies

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BA7CA59D-1A8C-4105-9279-1D063FF45966.jpeg
CB34CD8B-DCBB-4998-A9E5-D65E55181115.jpeg
A1198234-98FF-4768-B97A-9C36F3000043.jpeg


A few more pics from a couple of weeks back.

Jacket: Brioni
Shirt & Tie: Drake’s
PS: Vanda
Pants: Manolo/Ströms
Shoes: Alden
 

macjedi

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Friday Challenge: Chore Coats - Extended to 3/31.

Since most of us have had to transition to self quarantine in the past week or two, I’ve decided to extend the challenge to Tuesday, March 31st.

GOOD LUCK!

Friday Challenge:
Chore Coats - ends 3/31


Inspired by recent posts by @EFV, @Gerry Nelson, and others … I’m choosing the ubiquitous chore coat as the subject for this challenge. It’s become a staple in my wardrobe and it has appeal with both CM and SW&D audiences. I also believe it has the ability to be versatile in different climates as both Erik and Gerry have beautifully demonstrated.

The challenge is easy. Post a new or recent fit showing how YOU ROCK a chore coat. Entries must show a full-length shot (faces may be obscured or cropped) and be submitted by 3/20.

The prize: Bragging rights. The winner also accepts the honor of creating and administering the poll for the next challenge; or at least proactively finds someone else to do so. It’s a small price to pay for you being AWESOME!

If you’re new to chore coats and would like to know more, here are a couple articles on the subject …

https://putthison.com/the-french-chore-coat-finding-good-spring/

https://therake.com/stories/style/s...letter&utm_campaign=story-12-style.101.french

Inspiration:
View attachment 1353843
View attachment 1353841
View attachment 1353842

GOOD LUCK!!?
 
Last edited:

Thin White Duke

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In the early days of the Plague, when one is stuck indoors for long periods, one's mind wanders. In my case, my mind wandered in the direction of formal stud sets. A recent inventory of my jewelry boxes brought to light the fact that I have eight sets of cufflinks and studs, two sets assembled after the fact (cufflinks bought separately from studs). My most recent purchase of such items was a sterling silver set, octagonal, with mother of pearl faces, set with a small yellow sapphire, and edged in yellow enamel - a byproduct of my last trip to London in January (that seems a long time ago).

As I've had trouble in the past with studs spontaneously becoming disengaged, giving me unexpected and unwanted cleavage, I wanted to try on my latest set of studs, to ensure that they would stay in place, and, as I was bothering to use a proper tuxedo shirt for this purpose, I decided to try on all eight - in for a penny, in for a pound.

A photo of all eight sets is as below:


IMG_3781.JPG



The set at the top of the picture is one of the two assembled sets. The cufflinks I had made for me some 25-30 years ago, but the studs I found on Etsy a couple of years ago, looking to make use of the cufflinks (which are 14K gold and lapis lazuli) in a formal setting. The studs are set with lapis, but are gilded brass.

Left to right of the boxed sets, the newest set, as described above, from Deakin & Francis; an inexpensive black enamel set bought on sale in the last gasping days of the NYC discounter Syms; an inexpensive mother-of-pearl set bought some 40 years ago; and the second assembled set - a pair of sterling silver & enamel cufflinks from a now-defunct shop in the Princes Arcade in London, matched with a set of studs in exactly the same style from Budd shirtmakers in London.

Below, a set of inexpensive gold knots, more than likely from Syms, some couple of decades ago; a set of square base metal enamel links and studs from Brooks Brothers, bought and used for more than a decade; and a set of silk knots, which came with a formal shirt (exact source unknown). The gold knots, and the square studs were sewn onto seam binding by me (rather hamfistedly, to be sure, but effectively), in order to ensure that I did not lose them - the silk knots came as shown.

The studs from Deakin & Francis, and the studs bought from Etsy both have flat round backs, the size of buttons, which are not the easiest things to put on (they need to put on front to back - first buttoned into the top shirt placket, then into the stud holes behind the placket), but are guaranteed to stay in place. The blue sterling enamel set have mechanisms which are supposed to fold to secure the studs, but do not do so, in my experience. I had my jeweler here in NYC solder the mechanisms shut, but, even solidly shut, even for the short time that I wore them this afternoon, they were coming undone. Grrrr.

Of the inexpensive sets, the black enamel, the gold knots, and the square gold enamel sets have solid backs, and stay in place better than the set from Budd, even though the flat backs of the cheaper sets are smaller in diameter than the sets from Deakin & Francis and Etsy - better but not perfect. (The black enamel set I've never worn until this afternoon.)

The mother of pearl set has that strange pin-like backing, which I never have found satisfactory, and I've worn the set of studs once, many years ago.

Below are photos of me wearing each of the stud sets, for reference, and, just to keep it real, I was properly formal even down to my feet, proof included.

Interesting stuff crusty, although I would struggle to ring eight stud-worthy occasions in a decade!
Do you remember @Reevolving and the palaver over white fabric adhesive tape to avoid washing shirts? I’ve wondered if the discreet application of some laundry tape behind the shirt placket might mitigate your studs’ tendency to break loose?
 

DiplomaticTies

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In the early days of the Plague, when one is stuck indoors for long periods, one's mind wanders. In my case, my mind wandered in the direction of formal stud sets. A recent inventory of my jewelry boxes brought to light the fact that I have eight sets of cufflinks and studs, two sets assembled after the fact (cufflinks bought separately from studs). My most recent purchase of such items was a sterling silver set, octagonal, with mother of pearl faces, set with a small yellow sapphire, and edged in yellow enamel - a byproduct of my last trip to London in January (that seems a long time ago).

As I've had trouble in the past with studs spontaneously becoming disengaged, giving me unexpected and unwanted cleavage, I wanted to try on my latest set of studs, to ensure that they would stay in place, and, as I was bothering to use a proper tuxedo shirt for this purpose, I decided to try on all eight - in for a penny, in for a pound.

A photo of all eight sets is as below:


IMG_3781.JPG



The set at the top of the picture is one of the two assembled sets. The cufflinks I had made for me some 25-30 years ago, but the studs I found on Etsy a couple of years ago, looking to make use of the cufflinks (which are 14K gold and lapis lazuli) in a formal setting. The studs are set with lapis, but are gilded brass.

Left to right of the boxed sets, the newest set, as described above, from Deakin & Francis; an inexpensive black enamel set bought on sale in the last gasping days of the NYC discounter Syms; an inexpensive mother-of-pearl set bought some 40 years ago; and the second assembled set - a pair of sterling silver & enamel cufflinks from a now-defunct shop in the Princes Arcade in London, matched with a set of studs in exactly the same style from Budd shirtmakers in London.

Below, a set of inexpensive gold knots, more than likely from Syms, some couple of decades ago; a set of square base metal enamel links and studs from Brooks Brothers, bought and used for more than a decade; and a set of silk knots, which came with a formal shirt (exact source unknown). The gold knots, and the square studs were sewn onto seam binding by me (rather hamfistedly, to be sure, but effectively), in order to ensure that I did not lose them - the silk knots came as shown.

The studs from Deakin & Francis, and the studs bought from Etsy both have flat round backs, the size of buttons, which are not the easiest things to put on (they need to put on front to back - first buttoned into the top shirt placket, then into the stud holes behind the placket), but are guaranteed to stay in place. The blue sterling enamel set have mechanisms which are supposed to fold to secure the studs, but do not do so, in my experience. I had my jeweler here in NYC solder the mechanisms shut, but, even solidly shut, even for the short time that I wore them this afternoon, they were coming undone. Grrrr.

Of the inexpensive sets, the black enamel, the gold knots, and the square gold enamel sets have solid backs, and stay in place better than the set from Budd, even though the flat backs of the cheaper sets are smaller in diameter than the sets from Deakin & Francis and Etsy - better but not perfect. (The black enamel set I've never worn until this afternoon.)

The mother of pearl set has that strange pin-like backing, which I never have found satisfactory, and I've worn the set of studs once, many years ago.

Below are photos of me wearing each of the stud sets, for reference, and, just to keep it real, I was properly formal even down to my feet, proof included.


Great post, even though I kept trying to imagine under what circumstances you need expected and wanted cleavage while wearing a tux...

Many really nice cufflinks, and always interesting to have a little back story.
Just earlier this week I received new cufflinks that I bought from a artisan in London, Victique, who uses vintage jewelry and remakes them into cufflinks. Bought these agate stones. Have only used them once, but so far really pleased with them.
4612BF48-3560-43BE-8FF0-B2761FE79434.jpeg
 

upr_crust

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Interesting stuff crusty, although I would struggle to ring eight stud-worthy occasions in a decade!
Do you remember @Reevolving and the palaver over white fabric adhesive tape to avoid washing shirts? I’ve wondered if the discreet application of some laundry tape behind the shirt placket might mitigate your studs’ tendency to break loose?

I will have to remember that trick if I use any of the sets of studs that tend to come apart spontaneously.

Great post, even though I kept trying to imagine under what circumstances you need expected and wanted cleavage while wearing a tux...

Many really nice cufflinks, and always interesting to have a little back story.
Just earlier this week I received new cufflinks that I bought from a artisan in London, Victique, who uses vintage jewelry and remakes them into cufflinks. Bought these agate stones. Have only used them once, but so far really pleased with them.
View attachment 1358374

There are no occasions on which I wish, while formally dressed, to bare unexpected cleavage - trust me, no one wants to see my cleavage in the best of times, never mind at a formal occasion.

Lovely cufflinks - wear them in good health!
 

DiplomaticTies

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