HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

[psb]

What do you think about the length of the tie?

Perfect sprezzatura ! You could also call it nonchalance.

 

[moltoelegante]

What do you think about the length of the tie?

As you asked, too much overhang.

 

[Alan Bee]

Olive Cavalry Twill on Tweed ...

Alan Bee

 

[psb]

Olive Cavalry Twill on Tweed ...

Alan Bee
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Excellently chosen, as always.

 

[EFV]

Yesterday, the sun showed its face for a few minutes and I awoke from my hibernation.

 

[1st Step]

Yesterday, the sun showed its face for a few minutes and I awoke from my hibernation.
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Well, You Didn't Sleep In That...

 

[loarbmhs]

What do you think about the length of the tie?

I think it's too Donald Trumpian—i.e., too long. Ideally, it should hit the middle of the waistband on your trousers, not 3-4" below that.

i do like the rest of the outfit very much though.

 

[blekit]

Some time ago.

Spoiler: Details

* Bytom coat
* Suitsupply
* Tyrwhitt
* tie from Embassy of Elegance
* ps from Poszetka
* Benevento pants
* Vass

 

[demondeac]

¡Hola!

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Who makes these socks? They're beautiful!

 

[Gus_McCrae]

A nice new suit

 

[psb]

From today, going out for brunch.

 

[DandySF]

A nice new suit

The pants would benefit from having the hip seam taken in, particularly on your right side. The seat might also need to be taken in to clean things up and reduce bagginess. The sleeves probably need to be lengthened but the position of your arms may be exaggerating the shortness. The most critical part of the jacket, the shoulders, fits well.

 

[Gus_McCrae]

The pants would benefit from having the hip seam taken in, particularly on your right side. The seat might also need to be taken in to clean things up and reduce bagginess. The sleeves probably need to be lengthened but the position of your arms may be exaggerating the shortness. The most critical part of the jacket, the shoulders, fits well.

The drape here is very weird - I’m not sure why. They usually lay much more evenly.
I’ll post a picture next time I wear them and see if you feel the same.

 

[9thsymph]

Olive Cavalry Twill on Tweed ...

Alan Bee
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I'm usually a fan of your stuff, but these trousers just look "off" (unnatural?) to me. I know you've put a lot of thought into this proportion, but it just seems off somehow. I don't mind the opening at the bottom, but something about the billowing thighs and the rise (stomach-placed fly?)...just not as flattering as your other stuff (though, again, the leg opening seems better than the pegged opening of your other stuff...). Why did you go in such a drastic direction from your other stuff? Why not simply split the difference?

 

[Alan Bee]

I'm usually a fan of your stuff, but these trousers just look "off" (unnatural?) to me. I know you've put a lot of thought into this proportion, but it just seems off somehow. I don't mind the opening at the bottom, but something about the billowing thighs and the rise (stomach-placed fly?)...just not as flattering as your other stuff (though, again, the leg opening seems better than the pegged opening of your other stuff...). Why did you go in such a drastic direction from your other stuff? Why not simply split the difference?

@9thsymph

9th, it all depends on how you choose to look at it. As you pointed out, I’ve studied proportions to the point of numbness.

See, to get a full cut (which is what I’m aiming for due to large thighs/glutes), the trousers have to travel quite a distance for the silhouette to flow. This means the rise must be high (at the navel or even inch higher). It is impossible to get this shape and drape and fullness without a very high rise.

If you study old classic drawings you’ll find this to be true. The only difference is that back then, high rise trousers where worn exclusively with a vest which somehow conceals the rise of the trousers and showing off the fall and drape of the trousers below the jacket/vest.

Now when you look at these trousers under a vest or buttoned up coat, they look very different. So it’s all about perspective. I like the new full look because it streamlines well with a full cut coat and softens an otherwise contourish physique.

Alan Bee