HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

[loarbmhs]

Those trousers are perfect!

That jacket is nice, but something seems off... cannot point towards it but that's just the feeling I get.
Maybe you can chime in

It's something I mentioned with one of your other outfits—your left shoulder. Like most of us, you probably have one shoulder that's weaker/smaller than the other. Need to have your tailor allow for this so your jackets don't seem to collapse on the outer shoulder, just before the sleeve head.

 

[loarbmhs]

It desperately needs a pair of shoulder pads.

The overall effect is of top quality cloth made up by a substandard tailor.

It's something I commented on in a prior post of one of your outfits. Like most of us, you probably have one weaker/smaller shoulder. Your jacket seems to collapse at the outer edge of the left shoulder. Need to have your tailor allow for/correct this.

 

[Wild Strawberry Rabbit]

Wanted to really cut through the noise and into the core of fashion today, so I shot these pics in RAW. Turns out that just made the file bigger.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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Did you shorten the jacket? The patch pockets are very close to the bottom edge of the jacket, which (at least for me) looks a little odd and distorts the proportions. Otherwise I really like the look!

 

[An Acute Style]

Guncheck? Check.

 

[jcmeyer]

@jcmeyer

I like the idea of soft contrast but that tie doesn't belong there. Too strong for the rest of the outfit IMHO

Alan Bee

It's on the edge for sure. In the full shot it seems less bold. This is not a jacket that likes a lot of my ties.

Did you shorten the jacket? The patch pockets are very close to the bottom edge of the jacket, which (at least for me) looks a little odd and distorts the proportions. Otherwise I really like the look!

Good eye! Not only did I shorten the jacket, I actually had to have the tailor shorten and move the pockets up since they were already low on the original cut. So to maintain the pattern matching he had to recut the bottom of the pocket to move it up on the coat. He still left it pretty low, but I wasn't going to mess with it again.

 

[blekit]

@An Acute Style nice tonal look. Personally I'd go with a contrast tie, but this definitely works for you.

Recently.

Spoiler: Details

* suit by Krupa & Rzeszutko
* Osovski shirt
* tie from Embassy of Elegance
* ps from Poszetka
* Cheaney shoes

 

[An Acute Style]

@An Acute Style nice tonal look. Personally I'd go with a contrast tie, but this definitely works for you.

Recently.
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Spoiler: Details

* suit by Krupa & Rzeszutko
* Osovski shirt
* tie from Embassy of Elegance
* ps from Poszetka
* Cheaney shoes

Thanks. I completely agree about the tie. Not enough contrast.

 

[Alan Bee]

Guncheck? Check.

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@An Acute Style

That is an outstanding gun check fabric. One of the best I’ve yet seen. Not over powering (like most), yet bold in a subtle manner.

Alan Bee

 

[Alan Bee]

@An Acute Style nice tonal look. Personally I'd go with a contrast tie, but this definitely works for you.

Recently.
View attachment 1256420
View attachment 1256419
View attachment 1256421

Spoiler: Details

* suit by Krupa & Rzeszutko
* Osovski shirt
* tie from Embassy of Elegance
* ps from Poszetka
* Cheaney shoes

Much much better fit on the jacket Blekit. Well done ...

 

[Alan Bee]

It's something I commented on in a prior post of one of your outfits. Like most of us, you probably have one weaker/smaller shoulder. Your jacket seems to collapse at the outer edge of the left shoulder. Need to have your tailor allow for/correct this.

Indeed, a dropped left shoulder sir. Tailor tries to accommodate it but some fabrics just are simply recalcitrant. The absence of shoulder padding doesn’t help but still the lesser of two evils (having gone the shoulder pad route).

Alan Bee

 

[DiplomaticTies]

Spoiler: Details

Suit: Scavini
Shirt: Brioni
Tie: Boivin
PS: Shibumi
Shoes: Alden
Shades: Oliver Peoples

 

[willyto]

Indeed, needs to go up 1cm or so. Lost quite a bit of kilos since suit was tailored but it fits much more comfortably now with more chest drape ...

Alan Bee

Still I think that it's better for the sleeve to finish where it is now rather than being too short where half the shirt's cuff shows or even more.

I agree that a bit shorter would be preferable but lately I've seen coats with sleeves that basically show way too much and it looks bad so yours were a bit of fresh air.

 

[upr_crust]

Good eye! Not only did I shorten the jacket, I actually had to have the tailor shorten and move the pockets up since they were already low on the original cut. So to maintain the pattern matching he had to recut the bottom of the pocket to move it up on the coat. He still left it pretty low, but I wasn't going to mess with it again.

Wild Strawberry Rabbit does have a good eye, but I can see why you had the jacket shortened (lucky for you they were patch pockets - easier to move, I would assume). The button stance is right for you (at least IMHO), and from seeing that, I believe that we have a problem in common - getting a flattering button stance, and a jacket length that is correct as well. (At 5'8" tall, I am in the no-man's-land between regular and short suits. When I buy OTR at New & Lingwood in London, I generally buy a suit jacket in a regular size, for the button stance, but then both the sleeves and the hem of the jacket need to be taken up. I feel your pain . )

 

[jcmeyer]

Wild Strawberry Rabbit does have a good eye, but I can see why you had the jacket shortened (lucky for you they were patch pockets - easier to move, I would assume). The button stance is right for you (at least IMHO), and from seeing that, I believe that we have a problem in common - getting a flattering button stance, and a jacket length that is correct as well. (At 5'8" tall, I am in the no-man's-land between regular and short suits. When I buy OTR at New & Lingwood in London, I generally buy a suit jacket in a regular size, for the button stance, but then both the sleeves and the hem of the jacket need to be taken up. I feel your pain . )

I actually misspoke about *moving* the patches on this one. The pockets had to be removed and shortened/reduced from the bottom and then reattached at the same upper placement to maintain the pattern matching. Hence these particular pockets are now squatter than they began. I've actually never moved patches but have shortened other, solid fabric jackets and gone within a cm or two of the bottom of the patch. I assume you could move a patch pocket up, though.

As for the button stance issue, that's absolutely something we share (I'm three inches shorter than you). If you move it down far enough to achieve a more ideal placement, it becomes difficult to place the top of the pockets in their standard position aligned with the lower button - they'd be too close to the bottom of the jacket and the balance wouldn't look good. Steed just says F it and places the second button lower than the pocket. Not sure if that's a standard eeature on their MTM or if they do it for shorties.

Like so... this is flaps but I tuck 'em.

 

[DavidLane]

I actually misspoke about *moving* the patches on this one. The pockets had to be removed and shortened/reduced from the bottom and then reattached at the same upper placement to maintain the pattern matching. Hence these particular pockets are now squatter than they began. I've actually never moved patches but have shortened other, solid fabric jackets and gone within a cm or two of the bottom of the patch. I assume you could move a patch pocket up, though.

As for the button stance issue, that's absolutely something we share (I'm three inches shorter than you). If you move it down far enough to achieve a more ideal placement, it becomes difficult to place the top of the pockets in their standard position aligned with the lower button - they'd be too close to the bottom of the jacket and the balance wouldn't look good. Steed just says F it and places the second button lower than the pocket. Not sure if that's a standard eeature on their MTM or if they do it for shorties.

Like so... this is flaps but I tuck 'em.
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I have the same issue. The distance between buttons is more important visually than the alignment with the pockets. Part of the reason I like a one button front. It’s certainly not ideal for every jacket but works well for some.

-DL