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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

Alan Bee

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@jdp234

Surely the tailoring is nice minus the sleeve issue which @Michael81 already raised (Steed I presume by the signature cut). But I'm not so sure about the silhouette. Something just seems off.

Forced to single out a culprit, it would be the shoulders. I'm all for extended, built up shoulders but I thinks this one's a bridge too far. It looks slightly cartoonish and throws the rest of the coat off balance. Almost seems like the coat is wearing you and not the other way around.

You should have Steed take another look at your pattern for future commissions.

Alan Bee
 

Alan Bee

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Alan Bee

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4,308

Alan Bee

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Canadian weather thinks it’s winter... in a couple days it will be summer. Idek.

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View attachment 1254547

View attachment 1254548
@induere_to

You're a very slim guy, I get that. But IMHO slightly 'Fuller Cut" trousers will take this tweed suit from excellent (which it is) to beyond exceptional.

Very narrow trousers don't do that tweed any justice. Tweed is the ultimate drape cloth and needs volume (especially in the trousers) to shine .....

Alan Bee
 

jdp234

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@jdp234

Surely the tailoring is nice minus the sleeve issue which @Michael81 already raised (Steed I presume by the signature cut). But I'm not so sure about the silhouette. Something just seems off.

Forced to single out a culprit, it would be the shoulders. I'm all for extended, built up shoulders but I thinks this one's a bridge too far. It looks slightly cartoonish and throws the rest of the coat off balance. Almost seems like the coat is wearing you and not the other way around.

You should have Steed take another look at your pattern for future commissions.

Alan Bee
No love for the full cut pents??
 

Alan Bee

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No love for the full cut pents??
Pants are draping perfectly. The silhouette issue arises from the coat.

I have a simple rule for proper silhouette. The eye should move down in a straight line from the edge of the shoulder to the trouser cuff. In other words, your silhouette should be approximately even from the shoulders flowing down to the bottom for a seamless top-to-bottom transition.

With this suit, despite the very full cut of the trousers, your shoulders are miles away (too wide, too built up) from the rest of your body. And then the cinched waist accentuates this even further. I think Steed has been overzealous in trying to "force" a V-Shape out of this one without consideration for your own proportions.

Alan Bee
 
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blekit

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Blekit are we back to skinny coats?? I thought we'd firmly crossed this bridge judging by your more recent fits .....
Alan Bee
You can sleep safe Alan, we are most definitely are not. I am putting a lot of attention to this in my ongoing and future commissions. However, I am not going to replace the entire wardrobe at once. Especially that some of my older RTW pieces fit well enough I feel goo to put them on - this jacket included. In the next few days I'll post a fit that will hopefully get your approval :)

PS. I must admit I was also hoping I'll get some love for the pants though. I think they are on the fuller side of what I post here most of the time :)
 

upr_crust

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Finally, the threat (or actuality) of rain has relented in the NYC metro area, and suits can now be worn without fear of incurring undue debt at one's dry cleaner.

Suit - Paul Stuart/Phineas Cole
Waistcoat - Ede & Ravenscroft
Shirt - Tyrwhitt
Tie - Corneliani
Cufflinks - Benson & Clegg, London
Braces - Paul Stuart
Pocket square - Ashear
Shoes - Bergdorf Goodman house brand
Hat - Fortnum & Mason

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