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Alan Bee

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A day of two maiden voyages. First one for a shoes - a pair of dark brown austerity brogues by TLB Mallorca from their Artista line. The second for a bespoke jacket - brown fresco light (8/9 ozs) picked up recently from Andells.

The shoes are amazing. The design, quality of leather and craftsmanship seem outstanding. I was very happy that I could change the leather (I picked dark brown instead of cognac that is the default option). It is of course too soon to judge, but the first impression is comparable with much more expensive brands (e.g. AS Exclusive Range, C&J Handgrade, Cheaney Imperial Collection). I'm more and more sure, that in the future I'm going to consider only TLB, Vass or Patine (varying on some factors like budget, style and type of intended usage) when buying new shoes.

As for the jacket, I was looking for a plain summer piece with visible fabric texture in rather darkish brown. Finally I've chosen a dark rust fresco light from Hardy Minnis Fresco III book. The stylistic choices for this one were as following: single breasted, half-lined, natural shoulders with minimal construction and spalla camicia, patch pockets and a slightly more open quarters than in my previous order with this tailor. I am pleased with the final outcome, I have a feeling that with every iteration we're ending up with a better product. The two issues I see here (rippling on the back near right shoulder and pulling near the button) do not bother me much. Especially given that they are likely caused by surprisingly successful training regimen I've started two months ago and will be addressed after the season (at least as long as the dimensions change is not ephemeral). For now I won't to get some wear out of this until cold Autumn arrives and see how it adjusts to my body.

Feedback is - as always - very welcome.

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* jacket by Andells
* shirt by Camiceria Olga
* tie from Embassy of Elegance
* ps from Poszetka
* Benevento pants
* TLB Mallorca shoes
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@blekit

Very well done Blekit. Now that we are making progress on the trouser situation (more fullness through the thigh), next time ask your tailor for a wider leg opening. I know 6.5" leg openings are all the rage (along with skinny pants) but since you've decided to go for a "fuller" cut in both coat and pants, the tiny leg opening looks jarringly incongruent. Besides it makes your shoes look like "clown shoes".

It took me a while to realize this but a wide leg opening is an absolute necessity to balance out the top block of an outfit of a full (or even moderately full) cut coat.

Alan Bee
 

psb

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Today a formal start into the new week. Its raining here, so i take an umbrella with me.

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blekit

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@Alan Bee Thanks! The trousers here are RTW. Although they might appear as slim on me, they are in fact regular fit. They are much more relaxed and comfortable than some other pairs I have, but I agree there's still room for improvement.
 

upr_crust

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The weather remains, at least today, seasonably warm and relatively dry, which is fortunate, as I need to wear a jacket today, as I am dining at "21" this evening - the consequences of Restaurant Week (as it is, the "week" stretches nearly four weeks), and "21" has a dress code for gentlemen. I believe that I shall pass muster.

Suit - Brooks Brothers
Shirt - Hilditch & Key
Tie - Charvet
Cufflinks - Benson & Clegg, London
Pocket square - Polo Ralph Lauren
Shoes - Crockett & Jones, via Ede & Ravenscroft
Hat - Scala

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samtalkstyle

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I received a few compliments on this outfit from my peers at the university but I felt like I could have made better selections.
Knowing the overcoat is too small - as with most of my current outerwear - but needing an extra layer to stave off the cold weather, I wore it open to avoid any nasty pulling.

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MrAmbrose

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I received a few compliments on this outfit from my peers at the university but I felt like I could have made better selections.
Knowing the overcoat is too small - as with most of my current outerwear - but needing an extra layer to stave off the cold weather, I wore it open to avoid any nasty pulling.

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You might consider trousers with less taper and a fuller cut. Something with an athletic cut. See how they are pulling in several spots. I like the sweater and shoes.
 

themanfromLisbon

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@Alan Bee Thanks! The trousers here are RTW. Although they might appear as slim on me, they are in fact regular fit. They are much more relaxed and comfortable than some other pairs I have, but I agree there's still room for improvement.

Blekit
Today, we use slim trousers (well, let,s not exaggerate). When one of my friends of the old school that show me photos of Cary Grant or Fred Astaire I use to say: “Yes, they were sharp, weren’t they?. But they are dead. Only dead bodies used that kind of trousers”.

Cheers

Vic
 

An Acute Style

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Brioni flaminio suit
Kiton tie
E.Zegna shirt
Carmina oxblood shell cordovan
The jacket looks too big IMO. Too long, shoulders are too wide and the button stance is too low. It could be the camera angle, but I don’t think so.
 

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