Alan Bee
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- Sep 26, 2007
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@blekitA day of two maiden voyages. First one for a shoes - a pair of dark brown austerity brogues by TLB Mallorca from their Artista line. The second for a bespoke jacket - brown fresco light (8/9 ozs) picked up recently from Andells.
The shoes are amazing. The design, quality of leather and craftsmanship seem outstanding. I was very happy that I could change the leather (I picked dark brown instead of cognac that is the default option). It is of course too soon to judge, but the first impression is comparable with much more expensive brands (e.g. AS Exclusive Range, C&J Handgrade, Cheaney Imperial Collection). I'm more and more sure, that in the future I'm going to consider only TLB, Vass or Patine (varying on some factors like budget, style and type of intended usage) when buying new shoes.
As for the jacket, I was looking for a plain summer piece with visible fabric texture in rather darkish brown. Finally I've chosen a dark rust fresco light from Hardy Minnis Fresco III book. The stylistic choices for this one were as following: single breasted, half-lined, natural shoulders with minimal construction and spalla camicia, patch pockets and a slightly more open quarters than in my previous order with this tailor. I am pleased with the final outcome, I have a feeling that with every iteration we're ending up with a better product. The two issues I see here (rippling on the back near right shoulder and pulling near the button) do not bother me much. Especially given that they are likely caused by surprisingly successful training regimen I've started two months ago and will be addressed after the season (at least as long as the dimensions change is not ephemeral). For now I won't to get some wear out of this until cold Autumn arrives and see how it adjusts to my body.
Feedback is - as always - very welcome.
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* jacket by Andells
* shirt by Camiceria Olga
* tie from Embassy of Elegance
* ps from Poszetka
* Benevento pants
* TLB Mallorca shoes
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Very well done Blekit. Now that we are making progress on the trouser situation (more fullness through the thigh), next time ask your tailor for a wider leg opening. I know 6.5" leg openings are all the rage (along with skinny pants) but since you've decided to go for a "fuller" cut in both coat and pants, the tiny leg opening looks jarringly incongruent. Besides it makes your shoes look like "clown shoes".
It took me a while to realize this but a wide leg opening is an absolute necessity to balance out the top block of an outfit of a full (or even moderately full) cut coat.
Alan Bee