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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.

  1. upr_crust

    upr_crust Distinguished Member

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    The end of a long week, and it remains sunny, dry and cold - perfect weather for more flannel. Inspired by fellow poster Roy Al, I am wearing suede shoes with a double-breasted suit.

    Suit & braces - New & Lingwood
    Shirt - Tyrwhitt
    Tie - Brooks Brothers
    Cufflinks - Turnbull & Asser
    Pocket square - Ashear
    Shoes - Canali
    Overcoat - Adolfo
    Scarf - New & Lingwood
    Cap - Saks Fifth Avenue

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  2. Alan Bee

    Alan Bee Senior Member

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    FALL SERIES (Cont’d)

    Morning Dress in Holland & Sherry Barathea. Cashmere stripes H&S too ....

    Alan Bee

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  3. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    Today I'm wearin' a real old suit and tie and I happened to walk past a mirror and caught that all four of my cuff buttons were buttoned. Who did dat?! Man, can't go on that dat, unbuttoned one on each cuff real quick, gotta show off dat fancy stitch hole.
     

  4. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Distinguished Member

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  5. Luigi_M

    Luigi_M Senior Member

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    ^ @Betelgeuse All beautiful, but that peek-a-boo tie ...
     

  6. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Distinguished Member

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    Thanks! Hehe this is a waistcoat I bought some time ago, and I should have bought the XL, it's a bit tight in the upper hips so I have to leave the 2nd button undone so that it doesn't pulls.
     

  7. Luigi_M

    Luigi_M Senior Member

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    I know, I know all too well what you mean :-(
    This in no way detracts from the rest of you outfit though!
     

  8. EFV

    EFV Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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  9. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    You’d benefit from a lower gorge.
     

  11. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Not bad, if a bit too soporific. Jacket fit could use a little tweaking. Would prefer a darker, more saturated color for the tie, with a bit more sheen for contrast. Right now, the whole outfit is too matte and muted.
     

  12. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Second combo much better than the first.

    Not sure if it’s amped up color saturation in the photo processing to blame, but the odd jacket is too vivid and city for the brown pants.

    As for fit, would I be correct to assume both jackets are from the same tailor? Ask him to clean up the accordion bunching around your waist. Also, sleeves need more circumference; that’s why you’re getting some lateral wrinkling around your upper arms. Patch pockets are too small and too low. Some extra shoulder width might also suit you.
     

  13. blekit

    blekit Senior Member

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    Thanks for the feedback.

    I agree that the second combo is much better. Although the colours in the first one are much closer to the reality in the details shot, the jacket isn't nearly as vibrant as in the first photo.

    In the first fit the jacket is from Suitsupply, in the second one the suit is my first bespoke order from Krupa & Rzeszutko. Overall, my Suitsupply purchases are too short and too tight given my physique. Only after some time I switched to long sizes from them and sized up, but even then the trousers are too tight in the tighs for my taste. That's the major reason why I basically stopped buying their suits and only occasionally consider their jacets.

    As for the second combo, this was my first venture into bespoke territory. I've made some mistakes (e.g. the patch pockets, too slim pants) on my own and there are some objective issues with the jacket as well. It's been altered since I've picked it up and some more serious issues were resolved, but not all could've been fixed at this point. The waist bunching is a result of a few extra kilograms and I take a full credit for it. I am currently working on making them a distant memory and hopefully the jacket will look much better then in this area. The sleeves wrinkling is something I want to address in future commisions from this tailor.

    Once again, thanks for your input!
     

  14. Alan Bee

    Alan Bee Senior Member

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    @Luigi_M

    TBH, I’m not sure what the precise measurement of my trouser cuff width is but I always strive to ensure during fitting it covers at least half the length of my shoes (I have long feet).

    The classic rule of thumb for dress trousers is “dress trousers should cover 2/3 of the shoe”. I try to keep it between 1/2 and 2/3. The danger of course is that if you wear full cut trousers (as I do), they can begin to look like good old “Oxford Bags”, popular in the 40’s and 50’s.

    My tastes however, are moving more towards 2/3 and further away from 1/2.

    Indeed, I have sizable calves as well and often have to shake my legs (or stamp my foot on the ground) when I stand up to release the trousers from my over the calf socks. I just live with it but I’m beginning to think a slightly wider leg opening could save me the trouble.

    Alan Bee
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2018 at 9:13 AM

  15. Luigi_M

    Luigi_M Senior Member

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    @Alan Bee thank you for the answer.
    I must say that you and your tailor managed to do an outstanding work, as your trousers hem seems far more tapered than 1/2 to 2/3 of the shoe.
    Maybe it's a matter of catching the right lenght - I don't know.

    My ideal trouser would have a high rise (waist sitting on iliac crest), single or twin pleated (inside), with some fullness around hips and thighs (they must not pull the crease even while sitting) and gently taper to cover a litle more than 1/3 of the shoe.
    That's in my fantasy, and I don't even know if they would look fine in reality.

    Thank you, too, for being upfront about the sticking-on-calves (seems the name of a British river ...) even with well tailored trousers: it's a comfort to find that others have my same trouble and live well with it.

    Luigi
     

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