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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.

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  1. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    So, to be clear, you're saying he has a low left shoulder and an erect posture?
     
  2. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    ^ Sensory overload... You've made the challenge more difficult than necessary, but I'm afraid it's not a success.

    A casual shirt like that should not be worn with a tie and certainly not with a striped business suit. Swap it for any plain shirt and your outfit will already improve. Also not a fan of the matchy PS and personally don't like multi-stripe suits, I think they look a bit tacky.
     
    3 people like this.
  3. SeaJen

    SeaJen Senior member

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    For what it's worth,and I don't think that is a lot, I wasn't saying that I think Mcob has it all nailed down. But I do agree that he has improved considerably from his earlier posts where everything was entirely too tight.

    I also don't see how he could possibly wear pants with a narrower hem, lest we suggest he start wearing leggings.
     
    3 people like this.
  4. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    I don't know about that. Not in the rude sceptical sense but in the I am not a tailor sense. What is pretty obvious is that the cut of the pant is off. I would agree with Teger that it's too tight up top and too loose on bottom. Fixing this might then be a matter of fixing the taper of the leg. Note that this doesnt necessarily mean that the hem gets smaller. I'm sure that a good tailor could make a pair of pants with that width which look smashing. It is about shape.
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2017
  5. WillingToLearn

    WillingToLearn Senior member

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    Yes. That is what i am saying b/c that is the case.
     
  6. mktitsworth

    mktitsworth Senior member

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    Then I'm saying you need to go spend more time looking at the tailor thread.
     
  7. bernoulli

    bernoulli Senior member

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    Tie is new and width less than ideal. Live and learn...bracers a gift from @upr_crust

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    Last edited: Feb 15, 2017
    2 people like this.
  8. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Re. less than ideal tie width: I was reading up on the Watergate scandal (I wonder why?) and came across a pic that made me chuckle:

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  9. Hal Freeman

    Hal Freeman Senior member

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    Good evening,

    Haven't post in a while (again..) Been really busy. Lots of great stuff the past few pages. Man those tie knots are huge!

    Testing new light and camera angle for better shots. Please let me know if this is an improvement or if I should change my set up. Today.

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    Spoilers:


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    Thank you guys,

    Hal
     
    10 people like this.
  10. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Senior member

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  11. DiplomaticTies

    DiplomaticTies Senior member

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    Appreciate the feedback. I don't agree about multistripe suits (as long as we are not talking about more than two different stripes) and I do believe that it is possible to wear a tie with this shirt, but I agree on the sensory overload. In the challenge thread I wrote my rationale for the fit:

    A mulberrywood weave silk tie from Sam Hober. The tie is very well made and the fabric is unusual and beautiful with a weave that gives real depth of colour. What I didn't realise when I ordered it though was that the fabric would have such a strong sheen. This makes the tie difficult to match. In the beginning I started with combining the tie with back-to-basic outfits like a charcoal suit and a white shirt. But then I felt that the tie stood out too much and became the singular focal point. Now I try with dark colours but combined with patterns and some green to pick up the emerald from the tie.

    Did it work? No, not really. Next time I use this tie I think I will try to combine it with lighter colours.
     
    1 person likes this.
  12. Roy Al

    Roy Al Senior member

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    Off to swinging London.

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  13. upr_crust

    upr_crust Senior member

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    Thursday, and cold in NYC - time for a three-piece suit in flannel.

    Suit - BB MTM
    Shirt, tie, and scarf - BB
    Cufflinks - Wedgwood
    PS - Ashear
    Vintage watch chain
    Shoes - Magnanni for Bergdorf Goodman
    Overcoat - Adolfo
    Hat - Selentino

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    More photos from the trip, including photos with Bernoulli, who played tour guide for us part of the time we were in Rome:

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    Note that, in the last photo, I'm standing on a bench.
     
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  14. mcobinad

    mcobinad Senior member

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    SF
    

    Thanks for your constructive criticism. This in mind, I would like to flesh out few things. Firstly, this suit and few others that I have worn of late have been items purchased from few years back when my body structure was proportionate to my suits. About last year or so, I put on massive weight and consequently my suits suffered from this change of body shape (including poppy fats here and there) and fitted snugly. Due to this development, I continued to post heavily on SF and my fits were lampooned with criticisms. To a great extent, some were done objectively, even if the critics at some point stirred up dissension amongst my cohorts here. Nevertheless, I reasoned along with them and saw the need for a change. At the time, I took the safest route by overhauling my entire wardrobe. I was too lazy to work out so I could lose weight.

    Recently, I have been massively working out (running) to shed some weight so I can fit into some of my expensive suits. It would be safe to argue that I would not rebuild my 'Garde De Robe' in one night (ou en un clin d'oeil) especially if what I already have are high end items. I am progressively noticing some loss of weight and decided to give my previous suits a go. Albeit, assessing from the close range shot from my last post yesterday, the drape on the chest may not be the perfect fit, yet there is a considerable difference by a long stretch of the imagination compared to my previous fits from last year or so.

    If you dig up few posts from last year where members spent considerable time pointing out elements (such as excessive button pulling on the button stance, protruding boxy shoulders, skinny trousers etc) all of which according to them needed reconsideration from their perspective. I took on board their valuable feedbacks and decided to implement their suggestions by overhauling my entire wardrobe. This action necessitated going two sizes up (going from a 38R to a 40R). Unfortunately for me and having a body structure that presents a real challenge for tailoring in the real world, some of the previous issues even going two-sizes up are still inherent. My tailor has said time without number that I will fair better going Bespoke or at the most MTM. Objectively, this is the right course of action as I would take my time to source my fabrics, design, construct and more importantly have the benefit of wearing a suit that is specifically measured and tailored to my body structure.

    If you look back to my post from early last week, you would notice that the grey flannel suit (with patched pockets) I was wearing had room for me to circulate from within (it looked baggier that I would ordinarily wear) but again it shows how much effort I have made to try to buy something that fits and drapes well rather than remain adamant about effecting a change that would lend more credence to my overall outfit. Again that suit is two sizes up from my regular fit, yet again, the issue of excessive pulling from the armhole, creases from the shoulder area up to the back area are heavily present. At this point, I can objectively infer that RTW suits are not for me!

    All this to say that benefiting from a softer constructed jacket will not go a long way to remedy a problem that is due in part to my physique as opposed to anything else. If not for anything, my best bet will be to take the MTM route or Bespoke which is the way forward. Going two sizes up in the RTW has not solved the problem of perfect fit even imploring the dexterity of the best artisanal tailors who know their onions. I do understand your point of view about taking advantage of an unstructured jacket construction which symmetrically follows the shoulder more closely and ensures the jacket drapes naturally to the body in a more relaxed way (especially in comparison to the constructed drape of the structured jacket). However, the problem remains one of physique and not construction, unfortunately!

    Lastly, at some point, I didn't know whether to reply to your commentary or entirely ignore, as I thought 'Here We Go Again' trying to resuscitate old posts that have been done and dusted. Again looking back at your pseudo, I can't put a face to your name or having remembered any encounter with you on this forum. On this occasion, I felt compelled to state my point of view and seal this issue of inordinate ill fitted suits once and for all. I am not a conformist as I don't follow a set pattern of doing things or the way certain people would like me to do on SF. I simply observe, take on board objective elements of criticisms and implement where the need arises. I am an advocate who takes pride in rewriting the rules of fashion by using the basics as a stepping stone for excellence.

    I know what to do and how to get there at my own pace and time. Thanks to all those who contributed positively to address this issue. A fortiori, I would not be revisiting this topic any longer and beg to take my leave on this subject. ;)
     
    24 people like this.
  15. h3ro

    h3ro Well-Known Member

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    Fantastic response and a well reasoned look into those of us who aren't able to go full bespoke or even MTM at this time in our lives deal with! Like mcobinad, I also have a physique which fluctuates causing some grief with some of my suits and jackets. I'm currently in the same state he was describing, with working on some weight loss so that I may wear my more fitted pieces for the upcoming Spring/Summer.
     
    3 people like this.
  16. AlexRamius

    AlexRamius Senior member

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    Paris, France
  17. DonCologne

    DonCologne Senior member

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    Winter is over with temperatures of 16°C. Good chance to wear this new leigtweight wool trousers.

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    26 people like this.
  18. Gico

    Gico Member

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    One my favorite suit also combination...
     
    20 people like this.
  19. SYCSYC

    SYCSYC Senior member

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    Difficult tie, outfit #1.
    A vintage tie from "Grès Paris" thrifted on the bay. Might have work better with a blue shirt but none was available and ironing wasn't welcome.


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    Le grand comptoir
    Meermin
     
    9 people like this.
  20. Hal Freeman

    Hal Freeman Senior member

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    @mcobinad Very well said sir, completely agree with you 100%.

    @DonCologne Since I am fairly new to this forum, I don't know if I have the privilege of saying this but I believe that maybe a light blue shirt would look better with that sportcoat sir. Then again, this is my opinion as I do not wear pink shirts. Lovely POW check too additionally. But to be honest, the pink does a good job providing some uniformity with the shoes to the outfit,
     
    1 person likes this.

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