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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.

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  1. SYCSYC

    SYCSYC Senior member

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    26 people like this.
  2. sebastian mcfox

    sebastian mcfox Senior member

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    Great, sounds like an easy solution!
     
  3. abidj

    abidj Well-Known Member

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    @SYCSYC great textures and great fit.
     
  4. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    Piling on, @Michael81 's suit jacket is far too short. He should sell it or give it away.
     
    4 people like this.
  5. wigglr

    wigglr Senior member

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  6. upr_crust

    upr_crust Senior member

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    Taking a stance different than my learned friend Bernoulli, I also believe, as does the OP, that the jacket to the suit as shown is too short for him. The OP has the advantage of being tall and thin, with long legs, such that the shortness of the jacket merely emphasizes his verticality, but, the hem of the jacket isn't covering his ass, and the button stance is too high. It is a shame, as the OP also noted, correctly, that the fabric is an interesting (and wearable) pattern, and on a shorter person would be an excellent fit.

    Just my .02 etheriums . . .
     
    2 people like this.
  7. DieuEtLesDames

    DieuEtLesDames Senior member

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    RRL Madison boots
    BB corduroy jacket
    Polo ocbd and flannels

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    4 people like this.
  8. Michael81

    Michael81 Senior member

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    I'll just quote you for the purpose of brevity, but this can refer to everyone who joined the pigpile.

    The jacket is indeed short. I haven't worn it in quite some time for this reason; the photo is old. Maybe I'll break it out the next time I'm in Italy. With 5-7 cm's of extra length it would be great. It is a pity, because the jacket fits really well otherwise. I have a cool SC, also from PLRL, which has the same issue - great fit, but too short. I actually wear the SC quite frequently - albeit away from the disapproving gaze of SF - but I am rather conscious of its shortness.

    My problem, as Upr notes, is that I am somewhat tall (6'2") and have a narrow frame. The best RTW scenario for me is basically a heavily altered 50L, which puts me in drop 9 territory or worse. Even then the jacket is a bit short and the button stance somewhat higher than I would prefer, as you can see here:

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    Tl; dr version: 2016 is a good time to be a short guy.
     
    3 people like this.
  9. DiplomaticTies

    DiplomaticTies Senior member

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    Amazing pants.
     
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  10. upr_crust

    upr_crust Senior member

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    From your description above, it sounds as if, off the rack, you would be a EU 46 or 48L (equivalent to a US 36 or 38 Long), of which (if the US is any example), virtually none are made, either in the US or Finland. I have a friend in the UK who has a similar problem, if more complex - tall, skinny, short torso, long arms and legs. He's a 38L US/UK size but the jackets are too long, and 40L, the trousers are too big, and, with 38 Regulars, the jacket my be a proper length, but the sleeves are way too short (he has 36" sleeve length arms).

    You need to do a long professional gig in a country with excellent and cheap made-to-measure tailoring - the rack, I fear, is not your friend.
     
  11. Braddock

    Braddock Senior member

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  12. Michael81

    Michael81 Senior member

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    You speak the truth. I recently replaced my navy suit with a Lazio from Suitsupply (cost: €300) and paid €160 in alterations plus shipping.
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2016
  13. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Madder, from yesterday's fit.
     
    19 people like this.
  14. Jim Chu

    Jim Chu Senior member

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    ...which makes Choc sosa all the more amazing that he's 6'8" and nails it every time.
     
    2 people like this.
  15. Andy57

    Andy57 Senior member

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    To a slightly lesser degree what you describe has been my situation for most or all of my life. It has always been quite difficult to get a OTR jacket that fit me across the shoulders and was long enough. Almost anything that did fit in those dimensions was so voluminous that the subsequent alterations were more like major surgery. I realize that it is not an option available to all, but that is partly why bespoke is such a revelation.
     
  16. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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  17. Michael81

    Michael81 Senior member

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    It's always interesting to read stuff like this. I've found that the more I get into CM, the more exacting I have become in my understanding of fit, and obviously I am not alone. It's strange to think there was once a time when I considered myself lucky to be tall and thin (it's pretty nice in other situations of course, just not for menswear).

    I'm basically at the point where I want everything altered. As a university man, bespoke is simply beyond my current resources, but hopefully in the future that will change. There is a decent MTM option in Helsinki which many Finnish bloggers use (two of which post here), but I don't really wear suits so much to justify the cost and time that would entail.

    This is one of the reasons I'm happy to pay it; in the final analysis, €460 for a well-fitting suit made from Italian wool is a pretty sweet deal.

    The design you own option (which I have tried) is decent, but it is still essentially RTW, although having trousers that only require hemming is definitely convenient.

    I asked about the MTM program when I was in Brussels but they insisted that an MTM suit cost €1000, even though it says nothing of the sort on the website. So far the results people have posted indicate it is a great option if you live in a city which has a B&M store.
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2016
  18. An Acute Style

    An Acute Style Senior member

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    J. Press sport coat. Old overcoat.

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    Last edited: Dec 20, 2016
    38 people like this.
  19. naspratt

    naspratt Senior member

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    @mcobinad, you have a beautiful family! Always love seeing you all dressed up.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. Alocin

    Alocin Well-Known Member

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    Bay Area, CA
    I'm not quite sure what I was looking at but today I tried to catch the last bit of sunlight.

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    I wish I could pull it together likely of the members here but I try. Also I'm still dictated by what an iPhone can do in terms of the quality of my shots.

    Suit: Pal Zileri Sartoriale
    Shirt: Kamakura
    Tie: Berg&Berg
    PS: Anonymous
    Shoes: Bexley
     
    6 people like this.

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