HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.

  1. semperexcelsius

    semperexcelsius Senior member

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    Is there somewhere I can get information as to which cuts flatter which physiques?
     


  2. Darkside

    Darkside Senior member

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    Try stuff on
     


  3. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    These days one really needs to define those terms. There’s now an immense variety of cuts available, at least in principle, and many combine aspects of these originally distinct Ur-styles (and indeed, traditional 'British' isn't really a single cut but two: city and country). It's best, I would argue, to ask the question not about these increasingly ill-defined national stereotypes but about individual design characteristics: buttoning point, lapel width, vents, shoulder expression, etc.

    There’s some information on this question to be found in the tailoring thread, but since the purpose of that thread is to help with individual cases and not with general principles it’s scattered and not easy to find. Searching for Despos’s postings is one way to start.

    But SF could really use a thread devoted to this question.

    It’s a more complicated question than it would have been a century ago, however, since there’s no longer a consensus definition of ‘flattering’. People who are consciously pursuing a ‘relaxed’ or ‘casual’ look, for example, might answer slightly differently than those who aren’t.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2015


  4. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

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    [​IMG]
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  5. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    Those suits shoulders look great. Those are the Sartorios?
     


  6. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

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    Perhaps I'm missing something, but actually I don't think they look great. In fact, every time I see one of @The_Foxx 's fits I feel like tugging down on his jacket sleeves to smooth out the upper arms, which seem to bunch up too much, leading to ripples in the cloth.

    I suspect this might be because he has very muscular shoulders and/or upper arms. Perhaps a slightly looser fit could fix this problem and lead to a more flattering overall silhouette?
     


  7. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    +1, just look at his post from a few days ago of an Attolini suit. Looks a lot better. Remarkably, when I commented on that, @The_Foxx replied he actually prefers the fit of his Sartorio suits. [​IMG]

    Edit: I may have misread his comment, BTW.
     
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2015


  8. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    In both pics, he is holding his arms forward, not a typical robo-pose. I was more talking about the overall silhouette from the collar to th shoulder seam, not below
     


  9. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

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    I completely agree-- if only I could get true bespoke to account for my forward pitched arms which often bunch and wrinkle my sleeves, yet give me the same shoulder as my current rtw and mtm suits! The Cesare Attolini was obscenely expensive, purchased while making more $$ working overseas-- I've heard Attolini referred to as the "Ferrarai of Italian suits," and perhaps first for good reason

     


  10. upr_crust

    upr_crust Senior member

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    Today's attire, with the addition of new boots (courtesy of the sale at Paul Stuart).

    Suit - BB Regent
    Shirt - BB MTM
    Tie - Charvet
    Cufflinks - New & Lingwood
    Boots - Paul Stuart house brand

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  11. SeamasterLux

    SeamasterLux Senior member

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    @Claghorn

    outstanding windowpane suit mate!
     


  12. colco

    colco Senior member

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    first appearance of kid, last appearance of a tie (at least for the week) as it's hotter than hell in NYC.

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  13. jcmeyer

    jcmeyer Senior member

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    Like that a lot, Justin.
     


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