Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.
Is there somewhere I can get information as to which cuts flatter which physiques?
Try stuff on
These days one really needs to define those terms. There’s now an immense variety of cuts available, at least in principle, and many combine aspects of these originally distinct Ur-styles (and indeed, traditional 'British' isn't really a single cut but two: city and country). It's best, I would argue, to ask the question not about these increasingly ill-defined national stereotypes but about individual design characteristics: buttoning point, lapel width, vents, shoulder expression, etc.
There’s some information on this question to be found in the tailoring thread, but since the purpose of that thread is to help with individual cases and not with general principles it’s scattered and not easy to find. Searching for Despos’s postings is one way to start.
But SF could really use a thread devoted to this question.
It’s a more complicated question than it would have been a century ago, however, since there’s no longer a consensus definition of ‘flattering’. People who are consciously pursuing a ‘relaxed’ or ‘casual’ look, for example, might answer slightly differently than those who aren’t.
Those suits shoulders look great. Those are the Sartorios?
Perhaps I'm missing something, but actually I don't think they look great. In fact, every time I see one of @The_Foxx 's fits I feel like tugging down on his jacket sleeves to smooth out the upper arms, which seem to bunch up too much, leading to ripples in the cloth.
I suspect this might be because he has very muscular shoulders and/or upper arms. Perhaps a slightly looser fit could fix this problem and lead to a more flattering overall silhouette?
+1, just look at his post from a few days ago of an Attolini suit. Looks a lot better. Remarkably, when I commented on that, @The_Foxx replied he actually prefers the fit of his Sartorio suits.
Edit: I may have misread his comment, BTW.
In both pics, he is holding his arms forward, not a typical robo-pose. I was more talking about the overall silhouette from the collar to th shoulder seam, not below
I completely agree-- if only I could get true bespoke to account for my forward pitched arms which often bunch and wrinkle my sleeves, yet give me the same shoulder as my current rtw and mtm suits! The Cesare Attolini was obscenely expensive, purchased while making more $$ working overseas-- I've heard Attolini referred to as the "Ferrarai of Italian suits," and perhaps first for good reason
Today's attire, with the addition of new boots (courtesy of the sale at Paul Stuart).
Suit - BB Regent
Shirt - BB MTM
Tie - Charvet
Cufflinks - New & Lingwood
Boots - Paul Stuart house brand
Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
outstanding windowpane suit mate!
first appearance of kid, last appearance of a tie (at least for the week) as it's hotter than hell in NYC.
It's inferno in Paris.
Khakis of Carmel
Like that a lot, Justin.
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