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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.

  1. venividivicibj

    venividivicibj Senior member

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    What causes the drifting front crease?

     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2015


  2. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    Interesting. Didn't know that.

    [​IMG]


     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2015


  3. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    That's why the Formosa shoulder works so well for you.
     


  4. jcmeyer

    jcmeyer Senior member

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    No need to apologize; it's why I'm here! The only point I'll contend slightly are the sleeves being too short, but that's only because I know the sleeves are a bit long on the shirt and the cuffs a bit wide, so this is typical when I wear that shirt. I haven't checked to see whether the sleeves of this suit are actually a bit shorter than my others but I kinda doubt it.

    Will probably stick with the softer shoulders on future pieces, although I want to figure out a way for them not to rumple like they sometimes do. Probably more a matter of the contruction quality than the amount of padding, though.




    No offense taken, Cakv - and here I thought I actually had a decent robopose! But as CM and A2 said, it's more for fit critique, although some folks around here do manage to look both comfortable and sharp at the same time.


    Buttoning point will for sure come down by .5" - 1" on the next go-round.


    Interesting, and something that I struggle with on most of my pants - the left leg crease always seems to turn outward. I did lose weight since first getting this made, but had the pants tappered slightly and taken in in the waist and seat to compensate. Then, I gained about half the weight back though in slightly different places. So it's all over the place.

    But you're saying that a too-tight seat could be responsible for this issue? That would make sense. Most everything is a bit too tight and could stand to be let out. Or I could stand to eat a bit less ;)


    Appreciate the feedback, everyone!
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2015


  5. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    Wait a minute...NMWA site says this though. So I thought the shoulders were NOT structured.

    • Full canvas construction with natural shoulder (spalla cadente morbida)
    • Spalla cadente morbida (regular soft construction) : First two pictures of the navy birdseye suit. The shoulder is still very soft with minimal padding but the seam allowances inside the sleevehead are pressed open to give a slight bit of volume. The shoulder is “cleaner” than the second example.
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2015


  6. SeaJen

    SeaJen Senior member

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    In that case, this wedding would pay for one average Australian wedding per week....for a year!!
    As I said, insanely opulent. I cant really wrap my head around it, to be honest. The one consolation I can take from it is that all that money now enters the economy (oh, and that I got to experience it).

     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2015


  7. Mr. Six

    Mr. Six Senior member

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    I like the fuller and longer coat and fuller trousers. I agree that the shoulder look bumpy and the buttoning point is so-so. The fabric of the suit isn't great. I think it's wearable but a mixed bag.
     


  8. grade

    grade Well-Known Member

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    To me, Formosa shoulders always looked very...horizontal--like they'd be a poor fit for sloped shoulders. Not sure if that has anything to do with padding, or lack thereof, just an observation.
     


  9. Roycru

    Roycru Senior member

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    Having lived in Los Angeles for nearly seventy years, the answer depends on where in Los Angeles you live and where you work. If you live and work in the cold, damp, and fog near the sea (where I have always lived) there are some days you will be happy that you are wearing flannel (or heavy tweed and/or an overcoat).

    If you live and work in the central city, on the east side of the Los Angeles River, or in the San Fernando or San Gabriel Valleys, you probably won't often wear flannel and can wear an overcoat on the days that it snows (or that you can see snow on the mountains all around you).
     


  10. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    Roycru has beaten me to the punch. Flannel is totally wearable for a goodly part of the year in the beach communities. I know because I have worn it there. Justin, here in SF, a lighter weight flannel would probably work for you even if you run hot. I know it goes against the StyFo conventional wisdom of Heavy Fabric Dammit, but I think it has its place.
     


  11. clarinetplayer

    clarinetplayer Senior member

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    ................
     
    Last edited: Jun 2, 2015


  12. StanleyVanBuren

    StanleyVanBuren Thumb Raider

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    Well so the issue with the vest for me is that it ruins the elongating effect of the tie and the lower buttoning point that helps compensate for my short torso and long legs. Without the vest, I think the top/bottom balance is better. But I also think the vest looks cool when I'm not wearing the jacket, so if I plan to take the jacket off at the office, the vest might then be a nice thing to have. For court, or depos, or any other day when I'll be keeping the jacket on most of the time, I'll probably skip the vest.

    I asked my tailor about maybe narrowing the pants and his take on it was that I shouldn't do it. When he turns down work, I tend to trust there's a good reason behind his thinking. I'm still on the fence about this a little as I do think I could get away with maybe an inch of taper the whole way down and still have the full-cut look, but I hesitate to do anything that will throw the proportions off, and the whole point of this style, to me at least, is that it isn't a super-close-fitting tapered look.

    As far as ties go, most of my ties are around the average width of 3-3.25" with a few being narrower and a few being wider. The narrow ones are being stored away for the most part now. In terms of colors and patterns, I tend to favor navy ties (who doesn't), and non-regimental stripes. I'm not a big fan or earth tones but a few will sneak in here and there.

    I'd hesitate to apply 2015 standards to this jacket. Your points would all push this suit more toward what most guys in this thread are showing us, and that style is fine, but that's not what this suit is about. The longer length, lower gorge and buttoning point, and the overall shape were all selling points to me, and if I wanted something like what you're describing, I wouldn't use this as a starting point.

    These shoulders have more structure/padding than anything else I've got so I'm not sure I know what you mean.


     


  13. Ianiceman

    Ianiceman Senior member

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    Interesting theory Ac, but sorry, I don't buy it.

    In the opening sequence Bond is very much an active agent and as such we would expect that he's in tip top shape, and yet that grey pick and pick fits him perhaps worst of all his outfits in Skyfall. It's only after his fall from the train and subsequent fall from grace that he lets himself go and fails the physical.

    Or are you postulating that the reason he failed in his mission to secure the list of agents in he opening sequence was because he was already phoning it in, and that's why despite Moneypenny's lack of marksmanship prowess, the rogue adversary bested him on top of the train? I think that's a bit of a stretch, and that this is all really the fault of a clueless costumer. Bring back Lindy Hemming!
     


  14. Ianiceman

    Ianiceman Senior member

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    Nice looking suit but I'm always baffled by your compulsion to pose as if you are gripping an invisible rugby ball under each arm.
     


  15. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    You benefit from structured shoulders for more than one reason, but the main one so far as I'm concerned is that you have large hips. You’re pair-shaped. A bit of should extension improves the overall proportions of the silhouette.

    I benefit from structure because I’m slender and don’t have the usual degree of difference between shoulder, chest, waist, and hip measurements. I’m tube-shaped. Structuring the jacket creates the appearance of better shape.

    English tailoring evolved for a purpose: to compensate for individual differences in body type. Saying that ‘I like the way unstructured jackets look on me and therefore everyone should wear them’ is like me saying ‘I like the way structured jackets look on me and therefor everyone should wear them’—both miss the point.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     


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