Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.
'Twas a busy day. Better late than never...?
Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Not to pile it on, @Coxsackie, but you seem to have a knack for selecting the wrong shirt collars. Those long and pointy collars are not flattering you.
Great fabric on the SC by the way.
You had me until the shoes and totally lost me with the no socks. I do think there is a place for socklessness in CM (with loafers). But I think it works best with a casual or sprezzy look. Not something so wonderfully conservative (with a twist of shantung)
Totally agree with you fine gents. I just didn't have a plain blue shirt available this morning.
Ah - here I'm not sure I do agree. I have a long neck. Supposedly the "accepted wisdom" is to wear short collars if you have a long neck, but that just doesn't make any sense to me.
The problem with this shirt is that the collar is a half inch too big for me, not that the collar points are too elongated. Well, that's what I fink anyways.
I always appreciate feedback, Clags, and yours is an opinion I particularly value.
But this really has me scratching my head.
The SC has a denim / chambray touch. And the shirt is a cotton linen blend with a slight texture too. The whole thing dresses slightly down from "the uniform". I guess that may not come through in the shots.
But even if that were a straight navy SC -- hell, even if it weren't a shantung tie -- it's hard for me to say that I'm not in very good company among the best dressed here, or well within the mainstream overall (and before you say "we're better/the rest of the world is irrelevant", then at least admit the Neapolitan/Pitti mainstream), by going sockless with loafers at this time of the year, frankly with any fit.
And let's keep perspective: It's not like I wore loafers with a suit (as was a challenge lately).
I genuinely don't believe:
a) just about any colored sock would have improved that fit, given how those particular loafers are cut so open on the foot (and how slim those trousers are). I've struggled with these loafers before (Alden shell full straps), which frustrates me because they're pretty common, and I think that's part of why.
b) just about any other major poster would have been called out for sockless in this fit.
I hate to sound so sour grapey, but I do get double standarded a LOT. And it does annoy me. A LOT.
GMM, Im with Clags on this one. The whole rig looks very sharp and crisp, slubby tie and denim-ish jacket or not, and the loafers and no socks is very jarring there.
Thumbed anyways, but socks and lace ups would have made that equisit.
Take some comfort in the fact that, had I been struck in a similar way (love, love, love this is my favorite gmmcl fit ever, love, lo awww shit why did he go and do that for), I would have posted the same thing.
Now, I'm not a huge fan of the sockless loafer look to start with. But I can appreciate it when it looks like an outfit belongs in Pitti. That outfit is just too wonderfully subtle for that. No loud colors. No additional sprezz. The fabric is all wonderful but the cut and shape of everything is still fairly conservative (which I love).
You might be right about the socks...in which case, I'd've hoped for different shoes?
*When did you get that jacket and why aren't you wearing it at least once a week
*Everything else about that outfit really, really speaks to me.
I'm not sure if it's accepted wisdom that you should wear short collars if you have a long neck, I'd say the contrary. What I mean is that wider spread collars would better balance out your elongated face (I was going to write "long face", but that didn't sound quite right )
Combined with a higher collar band to compensate for your long neck, that would be the type of shirt collar I would go for if I were you.
(Of course, if your shirt collar is too big then the collar will sit too low on your neck)
This. You're still awesome, GMM.
Why this works better:
First, I think this would have been better with shoes other than loafers. Or even loafers with socks. But it does work. His jacket has a very casual cut (and cut is probably the most important factor in determining overall vibe). And the loafers are suede (and suede just rings more casual than calf). And this is second hand as I was never active when PG was, but he also has a reputation for casualizing his CM fits. Though the relevancy of this is questionable.
Finally, he's feet aren't pale white like yours or mine. I half jokingly wore sockless loafers for the challenge (not out and about, just for the picture). And I took a picture. And the ankle was so jarring that I couldn't bring myself to post it.
Why I didn't comment:
I wasn't in the mood to give constructive criticism. And I was also grateful that PG has started posting.
Why this works:
Well, like PG, SS does the casual thing a lot. And does the sockless loafer thing a lot. And I'm assuming uses lots of anti-fungal cream. This would have worked better if the jacket was more casual a cut, but the colors, of the pants and the jacket, clearly add a sprezzy vibe to the look. And again, the loafers are suede. Plus. Weird blue popover?
Why I didn't comment:
a) It's SS, that's just what he does.
b) I didn't like his outfit as much as I liked yours (and I do often like his stuff...this one just didn't do it for me)
A harmony of blue/green. Tie is such a great color
X-post from this weeks challenge.
This was truly a challenge. Peach on the ground under a blue sky with some minor clouds.
The trousers are rarely worn with SC and tie but gets a lot of airtime in the summer.
Shirt - UNIQLO
S/Coat - Patrick Johnson "Napoli" line
Navy Pantaloons - Patrick Johnson "Napoli" line
Shoes - Tretorn x Sid Mashburn
It is a suit, this one to be exact: http://shibumi-berlin.tumblr.com/image/114127057388 colors in the shoe pic are just a little off.
Margaery really does nothing for me, but you're on point with Missandei.
The weather has cooled and dried out a bit today, so, back to suits. The Friday Challenge is to dress like a fruit or vegetable - my choice of comestible is shown below, in the spoiler.
Suit & shirt - BB
Tie - Charvet
Cufflinks - DVVS, NYC
Shoes - Florsheim Royal Imperials (Magnanni)
Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Separate names with a comma.