HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.

  1. SeaJen

    SeaJen Senior member

    Messages:
    1,639
    Likes Received:
    4,570
    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2012
    I, too, have greatly enjoyed this debate. I certainly believe there are rules to CM, but I think some of the dispute has been how one interprets "rule". Some see them as regulations (inviolate) while others see them as guidelines and heuristics, and therefore evolutionary and dynamic. Some see them as analytically derived, while others see them as empirically discovered, . Still others see them as dictum while others see them as social/cultural norms that emerge organically within the social group.

    The closest analogy I can think of is the work of the architect Chris Alexander. He wrote 3 books in the 70s on recurring "patterns" in successful (attractive, harmonious, enjoyable to live within) buildings and built environments (One being A Timeless Way of Building - especially for Tira). These patterns were distilled from his study of building over centuries and formed a pattern language through which people could communicate complex ideas in terse terms. An example is 4 story limit - limit the height of buildings in a residential community to 4 stories. His ideas are not widely adopted in architecture, but they were picked up with gusto in the computer science community as they were struggling with the design and architecture of massively complex systems and sought heuristics to help guide the process.

    The upshot of all this is that I see the rules of dressings as heuristics collectively learned through experience over time which then emerge as norms within a given group. As in many complex systems, some of these rules can be in tension in a given situation, and priorities come into effect and thus some rules get broken, but it is only the expert who knows when it is the right time to break a given rule. He understands the consequences of the break, because he knows (if only subconsciously) the rules that he is breaking. Hence, it is the realm of the expert to break rules. Novices need first to learn and apply them.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015


  2. ridethecliche

    ridethecliche Senior member

    Messages:
    9,878
    Likes Received:
    3,656
    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2013
    Location:
    Bahstan
    What's the point of having a breast pocket with a PS if the lapels are so wide that it is:
    a) barely visible
    b) stuffing up the lapels
     


  3. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

    Messages:
    3,899
    Likes Received:
    4,746
    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2013
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015


  4. ShawnBC

    ShawnBC Senior member

    Messages:
    1,537
    Likes Received:
    777
    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2014
    Location:
    Québec, Canada
    Just wanted to take 2 seconds of my time to point out that @justinkapur has put out some excellent fits in the lasts pages or so! I don't know what's your shoes/socks budget but you left me green with envy!

    Nice fits by @upr_crust , @Sander , @NickPollica and @VictorSFreturn also!

    Thank you guys for the time you take to pose, edit and upload pictures everyday or almost!
     


  5. VictorSFreturn

    VictorSFreturn Senior member

    Messages:
    558
    Likes Received:
    2,393
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2012
    Location:
    RF
    Thank U! You're right about the required length coat. But if you look closely - it can be seen - strong wrinkles cloth coat in the elbow. So tailor-made for shooting, the sleeves a little pull on up to shoulder, to show the game textures and shades coat-shirt-cardigan accessories. In the basic position when lowered or arms bent at the elbow cuff coat, self-other, covers everything that is put under him.
     


  6. VictorSFreturn

    VictorSFreturn Senior member

    Messages:
    558
    Likes Received:
    2,393
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2012
    Location:
    RF

    Superb!!!
     


  7. VictorSFreturn

    VictorSFreturn Senior member

    Messages:
    558
    Likes Received:
    2,393
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2012
    Location:
    RF
    I have repeatedly written - that spread various photos. Part of the new photo, and the other part made a little earlier.
     


  8. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    3,122
    Likes Received:
    2,075
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2009
    Location:
    New York
    New client cancels his appointment 30 mins before he's supposed to come in......just look at my face....

    [​IMG]
     


  9. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

    Messages:
    3,762
    Likes Received:
    6,784
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Location:
    Jakarta, Indonesia
    

    Cool pic. But I will never want to be a client of you...
     


  10. VictorSFreturn

    VictorSFreturn Senior member

    Messages:
    558
    Likes Received:
    2,393
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2012
    Location:
    RF
    About the multi-page discussion here. I will not say anything new. It is trite, obvious, and it is a fact:

    1. The rules can be broken. Some Days.

    2. BUT !!! Only if you know the rules very well, and you have the talent and knowledge to break the rules aesthetically and competently.

    3. Classic rules are always at the forefront.

    4. If you do exeperimental, but doubt as a result - then it is better to stop exeperimental. And dress strictly by the rules. Axiom.

    5. Again and again, learning and repeating the rules - this is the most important rule.

    6. Experimentation should be in moderation. Very moderate.

    All this is terribly banal. But again - it is a fact.

    :)
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015


  11. mossrockss

    mossrockss Senior member

    Messages:
    1,700
    Likes Received:
    4,280
    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2008
    

    Looks great man—is that the linen donegal jacket from bloomies?
     


  12. Ianiceman

    Ianiceman Senior member

    Messages:
    2,651
    Likes Received:
    485
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2010
    Location:
    Keyboard War Room
    

    You're on a hiding to nothing with comments like this on the SF RTC. Saturday Night Fever lapels are almost universally jizzed over while anything than can remotely be considered 'slim' let alone ' skinny' is gonna be the subject of almost universal derision. That's one of the unfortunate maxims that have evolved on SF, mores the pity. I remember the seventies as the decade that style forgot, and we should not go there again!
     


  13. surefire1017

    surefire1017 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    89
    Likes Received:
    32
    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2009
    It may not add much but I think there are two sides, preservation and restoration. Obviously people want to preserve the rules and ideas out of respect and the fact they work.

    However, the industry does in a sense need to restore the ideals of tailored clothing. Since everything now is more casual people need to be inspired to dress up, thus some kind of new angle must be presented to try and increase the audience.I've seen it just by wearing items from brands like eidos where the owners of my company who rarely dress up anymore start to ask about the piece and get excited about tailored clothing again.
     


  14. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    3,122
    Likes Received:
    2,075
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2009
    Location:
    New York
    

    Now that's a glass half empty attitude, go and make something of yourself!
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015


  15. Roy Al

    Roy Al Senior member

    Messages:
    1,267
    Likes Received:
    7,585
    Joined:
    Aug 8, 2013
    Location:
    Stavanger, Norway
    This is how it turned out to day. A more radical shit than I normally wear.

    [​IMG]





    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Suit - MTM, Whitcomb & Shaftsbury
    Shirt - MTM, Turnbull & Asser
    Tie - CT
    PS - Berg & Berg
    Suspenders - Thurston
    Shoes - Loake
    Shine - mysef
    Comments are welcomed
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by