HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.

  1. Nelton

    Nelton Senior member

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    Lovely fit as always Victor, but the coat sleeves are slightly too short, it betrays the practical purpose of a coat to have the sleeves shorter than your shirt and/or jacket. The purpose of a coat is to protect you from the elements and if the sleeves are too short then it cannot do this. Cheers, Nick
     


  2. upr_crust

    upr_crust Senior member

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    Another (and perhaps the last) day of wintry weather in NYC this spring. (Tomorrow promises to be wet, but warmer, at least.) One last hurrah for the flannel in the closet, and for today's topcoat.

    Suit - Paul Stuart/Phineas Cole
    Shirt - Tyrwhitt
    Tie - JAB
    Braces - New & Lingwood
    PS - Robert Talbott
    Cufflinks - Benson & Clegg, London
    Shoes - C & J
    Overcoat & scarf - BB
    Hat - Selentino, via JJ Hat Center, NYC

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  3. Sander

    Sander Senior member

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  4. DonCologne

    DonCologne Senior member

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  5. Ianiceman

    Ianiceman Senior member

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    Not only that but he grew a beard and tash in one day. Amazing!
     


  6. NickPollica

    NickPollica Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Lid by Agyesh
    Brown boiled wool marremana jacket (coming, in some form or another, to NMWA next fall) - Eidos
    Tan covert cloth DB suit - Eidos
    White/blue striped Japanese typewriter cloth spread collar shirt - Eidos
    Navy/royal dotted cashmere knit tie - Eidos
    Suede chukks (I don't polish these either.) - Christian Kimber x Eidos
     


  7. NickPollica

    NickPollica Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    This is good.


    The sentiment in the Boyer quote is the first thing I thought of when I saw rules of dress being compared to grammar. To be a competent writer you must be know and understand the rules but nearly all truly exceptional writers develop their own style and consciously deviate from them.
     


  8. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    @NickPollica fantastic db suit! But what made you decide to put the breast pocket so high? It's almost a shoulder pocket now.
     


  9. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    @NickPollica

    Suit looks great. Is that the Ciro model?
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015


  10. NickPollica

    NickPollica Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Yessah. Same as the infamous dinner jacket you love.



    If you're referring to the close up photo I think its a bit of an optical illusion due to the angle and width of the lapel. Its no different from all our jackets.
     


  11. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    Just as I suspected. I think the lapels come out way nicer on that DB model than the Tipo DB model (not that those are bad, just more like what other people are making). Silhouette looks great too. I may have to MTO that dinner jacket you sampled if the fabric is available.

    P.S. the DJ I MTO'ed last season has ended up getting a pretty good amount of wear. Surprising how often you can use those things if you open your mind to it.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015


  12. Monkeyface

    Monkeyface Senior member

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    Care to elaborate on how you wear it? What kind of trousers/shirt? Bow tie only, or regular ties as well?

    I've been thinking about a nighttime going out jacket for a while now, perhaps including some elements from a dinner jacket.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015


  13. GMMcL

    GMMcL Senior member

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    I'm still not sure I'm qualified to wade in when these sartorial debates blessedly efflouresce here on WAYWRN -- a delightful, but increasingly rare event (more's the pity).

    I will say that after several years of lurking, even I have absorbed the following by osmosis:
    1. Coherence is critical. Stitchy said it already so I won't bore through repetition. I'll add only this: Studying acting, we called this "commitment" -- go all in or don't go at all. Don't confuse this with overacting. Because that's worse. Think of it this way: insincerity is easily detected whether it's too little or too much. Also, to be clear, I mean coherence in all possible senses: genre, formality (city vs. country, etc), texture, color, etc. -- though I buy less into color theory less than some (which maybe is (just one reason) why I progress more slowly -- or not at all -- than others).

    2. Proportions are important. I mean this in edit 23 senses.
    a. In terms of what flatters the body. If it doesn't fit, it will look like s**t. No matter what. Fit is most important above all, arguably even above coherence. However, this is what is most difficult (and most expensive) to capture. This requires either gifted tailoring or superior genetics (I hate you people).
    b. In terms of the range of currently acceptable aesthetic. The midpoint here will almost always be acceptable, and the only question will be whether the current "eye" will be above or below. A good example is the current "eye" accepting trouser hemlines set just above the shoe line. That would have looked absolutely laughably ridiculous even just 8-10 years ago. I mean, really, really stupid. Really. And it will again. Trust me.
    c. Mastering deploying multiple patters requires also mastering proportions: You must vary the pattern scales from large to small to avoid conflict. Seems pretty obvious once pointed out, but it's not always intuitive for the beginner.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015


  14. justinkapur

    justinkapur Senior member

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  15. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    shitty pics but:

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/469255/...h-28th-50-shades-of-black-tie/15#post_7781459

    I don't think I would wear a long tie with it. Bow tie or open collar
     


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