HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.

  1. 9thsymph

    9thsymph Senior member

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    Ahhhh, the good old days...(barf...)

    I mean, are you really tone deaf to the social implications of: "At the end of the day, the suit/sportcoat have been unchanged for 50+ years. We can edit it to fit our times but there is a base, a foundation that needs to be understood."????
     
  2. Roycru

    Roycru Senior member

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    How do I opt out of the "Reputation" option and just give a "thumb"?
     
  3. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    It was always "reputation", but I know what you mean and I don't think there's an option.
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2015
  4. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    You don't. Just ignore the comment bit and click add reputation, that will give the poster a thumb. Easy peasy.
     
  5. The Noodles

    The Noodles Skid Fu

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    I couldn't care any less about NickP's shoes (the sheen) when the man always posts with a great smile on his face and a nice combo.
     
  6. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    Hi guys, in the awfuc today
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  7. EFV

    EFV Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I've thouroughly enjoyed the discussion going on in this thread.
    I'd just like to add a few words:

    My interest in CM started with an interest in vintage menswear. I bought every book I could on the history of the suit, tie and shirt (for some reason I've never been into shoes as much, I only own Lazlo Vass' book on the subject). The history of the suit we know today is a short one, in fact too short to establish a set of unbending rules. Just look at the changes the suit has gone through since the late 1800's, and look at all the local deviations throughout the world.

    throughout the history of the suit there have been some standards that have not changed, but they merely have to do with such basics as a suit must have a basic outline and uniformity. Everything, from lapels to pockets, to the shape of the suit, has been in a constant state of change. A lot of influences have come from around the world, in how a suit is worn and what it's worn with. Influences have come from sport, military, the old frock coat, workwear et c.

    Now, we have established a certain taste, in which cuts we appreciate, what fabrics we think work best together et c. But don't mistake this for anything but taste, and don't think this is something lasting. People dressed in SF canon, set by a bunch of posters here, would probably look like historical reenactment actors/vintage enthusiasts if they magically appeared 50 years into the future (or the equivalent of "hipsters" if they appeared 50 years ago).

    E.G. A light blue shirt would have signaled something quite else only a few decades ago. Who knows, in another couple of decades, a navy worsted suit might replace the dinner suit and white tie rig (which is already considered archaic by most people) as the most formal set of clothes for a man.

    Now, I've left the vintage thing mostly behind me, but I'll admit that my love for CM is, at least to some extent, grounded in pure nostalgia. I will continue to pick and choose influences from the history of CM, and still be open to some of the newer trends, because some of them will probably help in shaping what CM is in the future.

    Oh, and also, DB's with patch pockets isn't a new thing.
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015
  8. eviltimeban

    eviltimeban Senior member

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    I don't get involved in many discussions here anymore but the last few pages have been interesting reading.

    I fully agree that mirror shine is an option (and also, if you can do it right!) but only in the right context. What I like about Nick's posts is that he always looks "cool" - relaxed, easy going, and friendly with his smile (good looks help too [​IMG]). It does look like he just "threw it on". However when you look closely at what he is wearing, the quality is superb, the blend of colours and fabrics fantastic. He's made suits / shirts / ties look as relaxed and easy to wear as t shirt and jeans.

    Then, when you look at someone like @chocsosa , it's like BAM! That is one sharp suit, clean, pressed, shoes buffed up "to the nines". And that shows the diametrically opposed approaches to menswear, and also shows that each is viable in it's own right, once it is coherent.

    I didn't notice Nick's shoes until after the argument had started - they looked fine to me, in the context of the relaxed, easy look he had (and always has). However if Choc or one of the other more "formal" posters had posted pics with slightly less than shiny shoes, I would have noticed, and they would've looked wrong.

    I'm just happy to see nice shoes - regardless of sheen. Here in Ireland there is a tragic level of shoe wearing amongst most men - awful, cheap shoes (look up a shop called "Office" for examples), with point-up toes, scuffed (yes), and normally a horrible tan or dull black. Irish men just don't get shoes compared to our European or international counter parts.

    Anyway, it's interesting what Nick is saying about getting young people into tailored clothes - for many I believe cost is the first barrier. There's plenty of examples of people for them to emulate - film stars, sports stars (like Beckham or even Bradley Wiggins in the UK - not a perfect example, but still), and some rock stars (old mods like Paul Weller) - but if they can't afford it, they're likely not to do it. Unfortunately what they CAN afford is the Burton / Topman / River Island style of suits, of the peg, awful fits and awful quality. Savile Row seems to be a long way off for them.

    I'd love Nick's idea of a cool, relaxed, "young" approach to tailoring to take off and become a reality, but until the average 17 - 25 year old can afford a €500 - €1000 budget per fit, it may be a while before that happens.
     
  9. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    Thanks for two interesting posts on the subject, @EFV and @eviltimeban !
     
  10. VictorSFreturn

    VictorSFreturn Senior member

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    Very, very many different words and letters ... A lot...[​IMG]
     
  11. VictorSFreturn

    VictorSFreturn Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    briefcase/bag – Andrey Glushenko
    headwear – Stetson
    scarf – Calabrese
    gloves – Barbour
    tie – Calabrese
    pocket squares – Roda
    belt – Etro
    cufflinks – Dunhill
    bracelet – Viola Milano
    overcoat – Brooks Brothers
    cardigan – Cruciani
    shoes – Alden
    socks – Pantherella
    shirt – Bespoke
    jeans – Bespoke
    perfume – Clive Christian “X”
     
  12. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Just read the last few pages (it's easier just to look st pics and thumb).

    Maybe the good ole teachers of the past have exhausted everything that needs to be said about shirts, coats, pants, shoes, ties and belts in their current "ruleset".


    Keep posting fits my good people and for those that love the good ole days please use the search function.

    :D
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015
  13. Jamesgatz

    Jamesgatz Senior member

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    Edmund is that you?

    On a serious note - Vox or Manton?
     
  14. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Senior member

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    ^That's the first time I've heard clothing be compared to prose or the French Revolution.
     
  15. EFV

    EFV Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Comparison to grammar and big societal changes is interesting. There is one flaw in that kind of reasoning though.

    Grammar is essential to lawmakers, governments et c, to create an un-biased exact mass of texts upon which a society shall be governed.

    Clothes, even CM, don't hold such weight.

    I'll also leave this Boyer quote here:

     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2015

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