HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.

  1. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    You know what? You're right. What are we doing here? We've been talking about this for hours. Fuck...
     


  2. Tirailleur1

    Tirailleur1 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Alright @edmorel I'm nowhere near my laptop so I am going to post my opinion.with typos and grammatical errors

    I think the issue I have with what is considered "classic" menswear within the walls of sf is that it is a little misleading. Of course alot of who we consider the old guard contributed to building a foundation that many on this forum have followed. But many of their contributions in terms of rules stem from opinions, preferences and idiosyncrasies from said posters (no white shirt, hate for yellow and red ties, one shoe, etc)
    You don't even need to venture far to see this. Fnb posters consider vox foo and Manton the epitome of igentry- the ideology that came and dismantled and crumbled "classic" menswear. So even in their own minds they have a very different idea of what classic menswear is.

    What I'm trying to say( and what I have been saying for years in this forum) is that the idea of classic menswear as we see it doesn't really exist. What we have are standards that we keep editing for the times and that is fine with me.

    As long as you are well within those standards (which nick clearly is) then I think it is fine to participate in the dsiccsion of what we consider CM

    Now as for the excellence part. That's really a subjective thing. Some people know how to edit the standards better than others.
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2015


  3. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    I agree that there is value to knowing the historical context of tailored clothing. I disagree that this is "right" or "wrong" way to do dress classically. I do think that it can be done better, or done worse. And I think that at this time, classical tailored clothing should be seen as a "jumping off point". This doesn't mean the things are a free-for-all. Just like for clothing inspired by military clothing, or by workwear, or by punk or by grunge, "modern" interpretations of classic tailored clothing can be done well or poorly. Just because something is not rigid and unchanging does not mean that it's "everything goes." This is a false dichotomy.
     


  4. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Senior member

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    What fok said. And ed, i meant no disrespect to vox, manton, or foo. I learned a lot from them, too, but i dont think it's a bad thing to branch away from what theyve taught. Just different.
     


  5. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Tira said a few things that I hadn't thought of, and the few things that I said, he said better.
     


  6. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    Well, I'll just reply this one time than go back to my little cave. The Foo one shoe thing, was never treated as a "rule". If anything, he got more shit for that than anything anyone else on this forum has ever gotten. The one shoe is actually more of an example of what you are advancing, Foo knows that a one shoe is not going to be appropriate for every outfit, yet he didn't care and went with it. Nothing wrong with that. The white shirt thing, that is actually very interesting. There is a historical context for white shirts (formalwear/"white collar" work etc). Within that context, a solid white shirt in a silky cotton does not make sense with a tweed jacket (country wear). Now can you wear a textured white shirt, or an oxford cloth with a sportcoat? Sure. Actually, you can wear whatever shirt you want but their point was, there is a logical reason why it was not done and once you knew that reason, you can find ways of doing it where it would work. Same thing with patch pockets. Once they became de riguer, they were showing up on DB suits, worsted suits etc. Well, patch pockets have historically been on the casual spectrum. When you take a worsted two piece suit and put patch pockets on it, you are going against the original intent of both the suit and the patch pockets. Is that wrong? Yes, to me it is.

    At the end of the day, the suit/sportcoat have been unchanged for 50+ years. We can edit it to fit our times but there is a base, a foundation that needs to be understood. The Classic menswear that we discuss is not an "idea", its something that has existed for many decades. As you mention, we have standards and they have been edited over the years, but editing is different than saying something doesn't exist.
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2015


  7. jcman311

    jcman311 Senior member

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    I dont think it is exactly what you are going for but the look of this immediately reminds me of Roger Moore's Bond (minus the shoes) I thinks its the tan suit with brownish tie. Would love to see a full pic of everything sometime. Love it! Edit: Is the tie green?
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2015


  8. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    Whether or not there is right and wrong there are definitely things/guidines that lead ones to looking better.

    I belive the single most important factor is coherency. It's when people begin to stray from that that things start to fall apart imo.

    There are a million ways to look great within the universe of "tailored menswear." Just to name a few vibes, Barims, Vox, EFV, Manton, Tira, Cleav, O/O, TTO, The Armoury Crew, Nick, Braddock, Spoo... These are guys that all dress really really well, but cover an extremely wide range of styles. The common thread is coherency.

    All these guys keep the entirety of their fits, head to toe, in a coherent fashion. To use one of Eds examples, there is nothing wrong with a DB suit or sneakers, but they do not look good together because they are so far from coherent.

    Bringing it back to what started this whole brouhaha, Nicks shoes. Like them or not, his more beat up shoes are much more coherent with his entire look than high polish shoes would have been. The same way Tiras loafers worked so well with his suit and tie. And on the flip side, most Manton fits would look wildly incoherent with shoes not shined and crisp.

    You can wear pretty much whatever you want within some reason, but its only going to work if the entire picture is coherent.
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2015


  9. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    What? No sugarbutch in that list? I thought we were down, homie.
     


  10. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    As I noted, it wasn't an exhaustive list, homie.
     


  11. Murlsquirl

    Murlsquirl The Moral Squirrel Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    Personally
    You started it!

    I enjoyed the last few pages....I hope those who have not been around too long take the time to read through it.
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2015


  12. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    a) nobody suggested NickP mirror shine his shoes. Just to be clear

    b) Ed, please don't go back into your cave

    b.5) I have a worsted suit with patch pockets. I rarely reach for it these days

    c) I'm a big proponent of coherence with varying levels of calculated chaos

    d) classic menswear absolutely exists. But it is dynamic. Tira and I had a good discussion about this somewhere.
     
    Last edited: Apr 8, 2015


  13. Tirailleur1

    Tirailleur1 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I said classic menswear as we see it in sf
     


  14. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The majority see it as an evolving beast (I think). At least these days they do. So you're responding either to a minority or voices past.
     


  15. Penfold

    Penfold Senior member

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    X-post from Stile Forum, amirite?

    [/English humour].

    You may resume arguing...
     


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