HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.

  1. in stitches

    in stitches Kung Joo Moderator

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    I don't think there's anything wrong with the gorge at all.

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    Anden, very nice. Really been enjoying your color combinations.

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    GMM, love it.
     
  2. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    Last edited: Feb 26, 2015
  3. An Acute Style

    An Acute Style Senior member

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  4. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

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    AS, does the camelhair DB cover your ass? If so, it's not too short.
     
  5. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Jacket length is such a funny thing IMO. Over the years I have seen vastly different lengths look right on people of the same height just based entirely on body dimensions. For me they need to reach the first joint of my thumb or the top of the thumbnail. I have a longer torso I guess. For AAS they can go as high as the second joint of the thumb and look right. For dudes like GMMcL they often drop well below the thumb itself and look fine. The "cover your ass" rule is ALWAYS a must, but after that it seems to be widely varied with the person.
     
  6. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    Arm length is important as well in determining the visual effect.

    Also, there's a tradition, going back to England, of double-breasted odd jackets (and to a somewhat lesser extent perhaps, suit jackets) being cut a bit long compared to a single-breasted jacket. I'm not sure how alive that tradition still is.

    Ac
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2015
  7. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    Too true about arm length. Orgetorix was one whose arm length complicated the look, but he always pulled it off. I wasn't aware of that about DB jackets. Interesting.
     
  8. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    Goes back I think, at least in part, to British military uniforms.

    In purely practical terms, of course, one of the main reasons for having a double-breasted jacket in the first place was to get the additional layer of fabric for added warmth. A longer length is more consistent with that purpose than a shorter length.

    Again, I have no idea if the tradition in question is much alive on either side of the pond.

    Cheers,

    Ac
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2015
  9. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    I thought it was the other way around? [​IMG]
     
  10. Academic2

    Academic2 Senior member

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    To be clear, I’m talking about dress uniforms.

    Here’s a typical British-cut suit (Amies, from one of his books) from the late 60s sometime, I think. It’s not a uniform, but it shows the influence I’m talking about.

    [​IMG]


    I think it’s much harder to generalize about single-breasted jackets. Those intended for riding, or in a close line of descent from those that were, for example, are often cut a bit shorter than average (and have a more open skirt) for purely practical reasons.

    Cheers,

    Ac

    Edit: By the way, I’m just responding to Caustic Man’s inarguable observation that ‘Jacket length is such a funny thing’. I’m not expressing an opinion on AAS’s jacket length.
     
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2015
  11. An Acute Style

    An Acute Style Senior member

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    I have two black watch umbrellas: one stick and one compact. Neither of them are as nice as this though.

    I'll have Mrs. AAS take a look, but I don't think that's any of your business. [​IMG]
     
  12. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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    Wouldn't a DB have to be longer than an SB, all other things being equal, because a DB is usually slightly broader (or appears to be) and needs more length to look proportionate?

    On jacket length in general, again, I think it's about overall proportion. That's why 'half of the length from bottom of collar to heel' works better than '2nd thumb knuckle' . I feel I can get away with a slightly longer suit jacket than SC- the suit jacket runs into trews in the same cloth, so it's more of a continuous line/silouhette and the length is less critical. Having short legs, I have to be careful not to get SCs too long. If I follow the thumb knuckle rule they generally appear to make me top heavy.
     
  13. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

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    I don't think that's a rule that I have ever heard of. It's a convenient way to talk about where a person's jacket terminates simply because it is so easy to reference. Arm length is far too varied for it to be a rule as far as I'm concerned.
     
  14. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

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  15. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

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    [​IMG]
     

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