HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Claghorn, May 21, 2014.

  1. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,019
    Likes Received:
    20,959
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    [​IMG]

    Sf Family:
    Vanda, Yount, Unipair

    A rare 3.5 inch knit, wool, Rooster

    @timhortons Like others are saying, Butchy is just being straight with you. We've all started out somewhere less than where we are now. Hell, my first first I was wearing jeans with a tie and a shirt with rolled up sleeves (and was subsequently told I looked like I had just birthed a lamb).

    Our improvement is largely based on:
    a) our ability to take advice when offered
    b) the money we have at our disposal
    c) our general intelligence
    d) our aesthetic intelligence


    My first:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2015
  2. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Bearded Prick Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    15,898
    Likes Received:
    19,212
    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2010
    Location:
    People's Republic of San Francisco
  3. An Acute Style

    An Acute Style Senior member

    Messages:
    3,175
    Likes Received:
    17,091
    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2011
    Location:
    New York, NY
    Yeah, I had two shirts made by Luxire using measurements I took off three well fitting shirt. Neither of them came out well. I need to mail them a well fitting shirt or something.

    Thanks for the advice. What do you mean by "ribs of the jacket"? Also, I feel like the herringbone is pretty much a solid on this vest given the tweed fabric. I'll try out your recommendation in a week or two.

    [​IMG] So if I have it on the bed, would it be a wrong for me to get under it?
     
  4. timhortons

    timhortons Senior member

    Messages:
    473
    Likes Received:
    1,147
    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2014
    I need to find a good tailor who knows what s/he's doing.
    Choices are super limited over here. There's probably 8 alterations places within a 2400 mile radius (not counting the dry cleaner with a sewing machine in the back)....
    Most isolated population center on the planet....
    I'll make some calls to screen them.

    What are some good questions to ask to determine if the place is good?
     
  5. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    10,019
    Likes Received:
    20,959
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2012
    Location:
    Texas.
    If you are really wanting to march down this road, I suggest you go over to Noodles' Good Natured Advice thread. That's more for long term projects.

    You'll probably want to give your budget for various items of clothing, what staples you have, what stores you have access to, what's your preferred means of acquisition (brick and mortar, ebay/thrifting, bespoke, etc).

    One thing to avoid is sinking money into items that won't fit. Tailors can be expensive. Sunk costs suck, but the last couple of jackets you've posted aren't worth investing more money into. Save that money for something that fits better from the outset, and if you want to get that fit perfect, take that to the tailor.
     
  6. Chaconne

    Chaconne Senior member

    Messages:
    475
    Likes Received:
    226
    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2015
    I have yet to post a fit here and have no real idea of what i'm talking about, but, might it be better to try to just find a properly fitting SC or trousers than the full suit? The suit has so many potential pitfalls it might be better for us newbies to start a bit smaller.
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2015
  7. Sander

    Sander Senior member

    Messages:
    2,893
    Likes Received:
    6,176
    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2006
    

    The rib of the twill, not sure if that's the right term. Could be that flash photography brings this out much more than irl, but here jacket and vest seem to have a pattern of the same scale which is always confusing to the eye.
     
  8. Pliny

    Pliny Senior member

    Messages:
    3,885
    Likes Received:
    8,112
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2009
     
  9. An Acute Style

    An Acute Style Senior member

    Messages:
    3,175
    Likes Received:
    17,091
    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2011
    Location:
    New York, NY
    Thanks for the thumbs yesterday. Northern lights today. I wanted to wear a grey sport coat with all of this, but couldn't find one that worked.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

    Messages:
    3,980
    Likes Received:
    10,748
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2013
    Location:
    Melbourne - Sydney - Shanghai
    That would be Perth. Get on the "Australian Members" forum and ask for advice. I think there are a few Perth denizens there.

    Not necessarily. In fact, odd-jacket-and-trousers fits are at a higher level of difficulty.

    The usual advice (which I myself have not followed, possibly to my own detriment) is to start with a couple of "staple" suits: SBs in solid navy and charcoal worsted fabrics. These are like blank pallets which allow you to work on your fit, your style, and your colour matching of shirt/tie/pocket square/belt/shoes.

    If you don't want to launch straight into bespoke (and it's probably not a good idea to do that until you have solidified your own style), you should check out B&M stores in your area first; then have a look at online options such as No Man Walks Alone, Kent Wang, SuitSupply and so on.

    Your best approach will depend on your physique and budget. If you have a fairly standard physique, then online RTW can be great. Many online stores will allow returns at no cost, allowing you to have garments shipped, try them out, photograph yourself in them and post them here (preferably in the Noodles thread). We can guide you as to whether the suit is worth keeping (probably with some alterations) or should be returned.

    My first decent suit was purchased for half price at the Canali boutique sale. It's still one of my favourite suits, and was only A$1,300 for a fully-canvassed, hand-finished suit in a beautiful Loro Piana fabric. It was a serendipitous purchase which encouraged me to dip my toe further into the world of men's style.


    [​IMG]

    I wore it "as is" for about 18 months before realising - entirely as a result of hanging out on StyFo - that it needed alterations. The above shot is post-alterations, BTW.

    Just bide your time, do a bit more lurking here and on the Noodles thread and the CBD WAYWRN thread (now defunct, but a great resource), and you should be golden.
     
  11. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

    Messages:
    3,980
    Likes Received:
    10,748
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2013
    Location:
    Melbourne - Sydney - Shanghai
    Speaking of that CBD thread, I've been trawling through it the past few days. Just found a page with a Spoo fit that got completely taken apart by a number of respondents. And it wasn't such a bad fit, either.

    Just shows that we all started somewhere and all have something to learn!
     
  12. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

    Messages:
    3,762
    Likes Received:
    6,783
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Location:
    Jakarta, Indonesia
    Cox interested in CBD?! The times they are a changin'...
     
  13. Chaconne

    Chaconne Senior member

    Messages:
    475
    Likes Received:
    226
    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2015
    What you say about odd jackets and trousers makes a lot of sense. So much to learn...

    Edit: That was @Coxsackie
     
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2015
  14. Caustic Man

    Caustic Man Senior member

    Messages:
    7,387
    Likes Received:
    6,426
    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2012
    SC and trousers are harder to get right IMO. Reason being, fit is just as important, but then you've also got to coordinate trousers with jacket. Your need of a suit v. SC and trousers depends entirely on your circumstances. If suits are recommended for your job, then by all means go for suits. If not, go the other route if it pleases you.
     
  15. Coxsackie

    Coxsackie Senior member

    Messages:
    3,980
    Likes Received:
    10,748
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2013
    Location:
    Melbourne - Sydney - Shanghai
    In fact I can't go ultra-soporific-CBD in my line of work, which is why I still don't own any plain navy or charcoal SB suits. I'm lucky that I can indulge some flair in my work outfits. Hence all my windowpanes, patterns, browns, burgundies etc.

    I am nevertheless interested in CBD as an exercise in restraint. I have two goals for 2015: further improve the fit of my jackets, especially around the chest to stop my lapels bowing; and find ways to strike that elusive happy medium between sobriety and individuality.

    I keep coming back to that first Canali suit and marvelling at how I nailed it that time. Great fit, sober colour and cut, and just that hint of personal expression with the fine windowpane. That's me to a "T". Well, I hope so anyway.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by